Projects 1934 Ford PU Build

Back on the ground. I like the front end stance, but need to raise it up. Stock wishbone doesn't work so well with the front this low unfortunately. And I need to add another leaf or two. Pic is a bit dark. I'll get a better picture later today.

 

Looks good. How much up travel do you have with it that low?

 

About 1.5 inches


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Here's a better pic ...... I think [emoji51]


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Time for a dropped axle

 

That height is perfect. Great work.

 

DANG, that little truck looks nice Jeff.....

 

Nice stance. That's a cool ride.


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Thanks for the comments, guys! I had to bring it back up since the spring was bottoming out, but not much. Not sure I can go dropped axle since I have mechanical brakes.

 

I painted the spring packs in my pickup as an assembly. I assembled them with a healthy dose of graphite spray between each leaf and after they were assembled I painted the whole thing. I was trying to minimize paint build up in between the leaves as I had heard that can cause friction. I also chamfered and smoothed all the spring edges.

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Ah gotcha. You could probably get them to work but would have to re-engineer the pivot points. I switched to hydraulic when I lowered my 33 pickup

 

1.5 is plenty. Love the look

 

Need some help. I'm hoping to go on the Nor Cal Reliability Run next Saturday, but having a problem with the flathead. It starts and runs great cold, but if I drive it for a bit and stop, it won't restart. If I leave it sit for an hour, it starts again. I tried dumping gas in the carb, but that didn't do it. Thoughts?

 

I'm going to guess gas is dripping from carb into intake?
Too much gas vs your attempt at dumping some in
Got another carb you can try?

Truck is looking great by the way!!!

 

Thanks Flow...
I do have a 97 I could throw on. It's untested but worth a shot.


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Had same issue with our 51 Kaiser with flathead 6 and also on our 56 Nash with flathead 6. Both ran great until you shut them off, then good luck starting them for another hour or 2. Put electric fuel pumps on them both, and it fixed everything. I think it has something to do with fuel pump placement on the flatheads

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Got the 97 on the truck last night and running. It will have to wait until later this week to get it tuned up and see if that solves the problem.
I've got a 6V electric pump that I could put on, but will need to do some significant work to get that done. I've got the stock fuel line from the tank to the engine, which is a dual-tube fuel line (one large for fuel, one small for gauge). They seem to be brazed/soldered, or by some other method attached together. I've got to figure out how to separate the two so I can get a good connection to the fuel line.

 

Why oh why run an original fuel line? Please run new line along with your pump and be done with it.

 

You guys this sounds more like vapor lock than fuel leakage. A 1/2" phenolic spacer will cure it. As will an electric pump, but for vastly different reasons. The gas evaporates out of the hot carb when you park it.

 

Jeff, My 34 project to begin ! Question for you on Hinge Pins. Trying to take the drivers door off to replace door skin and fix the framework. Any tips? Pins are really stuck and I have heard the tools sometimes don't do the job. Thanks, Dave

 

Dave, I'm not sure how the hinge pins come out. I need to work on my drivers side door, but haven't got to it yet. I thought that the pins were just pressed in, but could be wrong. I'd try driving them out with a drift before I did anything more aggressive.


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They have a knurl at the top just under the head. I beat and heated mine up and ended up drilling them out with a .25 drill and hammering the shell out of the door. The pins are .283 or something weird.

 

Not only is the knurl holding the pin in, but so is the ridge worn into it by the moving half of the hinge, and the rust from lack of oil over the last few decades.

I've found it best to release as much pressure as possible by drilling into the head about 3/8" and if you are right down the center you should be able to sneak up on the outer diameter of the pin. Stop upsizing when you get out of the pin itself.

Then use a punch from the bottom of the hinge. Make sure to support the hinge on the top side as you hammer on the punch from the bottom. A nice heavy dolly held by a helper works good. If the pin is still stuck too much, drill a 1/8" hole farther down the pin from the top to release more strength. Don't drill through the last 1/8" so the punch will have something to press against.

 

So I need an opinion on a front shock mount idea I saw in another thread. Since I have mech brakes, and have not been able to find an "extended" spring perch bolt, I thought I might drill a hole in the wishbone and put the Lowe shock mount through that. Here's a picture of what I'm thinking. Here's the poll:

( ) - Great idea!
( ) - Not a good idea
( ) - Have you been drinking?




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Is there a problem with your lever shocks?

 

But that doesn't look,like a bad idea.

 

Well, they need rebuilt. And at 200 bux a pop, I thought I could add tube shocks cheaper


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Not sure how long that bottom shock mount would last. Can the bottom be rotated 90 degrees to minimize stresses?

 

Not a good idea. Lower mount in wrong plane and shock is mounted to close to vertical.

 

Take a look at HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps posts 862,867 and 870.
Not finished yet but good setup with good shock angle.