Advantages of bearclaw latches?

What else would you call a latch whos mechanism rotates to open and close?

Perhaps the star-wheel type were the first to be called such, but that does not mean they're the only ones that operate via rotary action.

 

My '62 Suburban has had a little problem with the door latches not catching and the door popping open around a corner. It's going to get bear claws for that reason.

More importantly is that in an accident, old-style latches will allow the door to pop open if the body gets tweaked. Bear Claws are like modern doors and they'll hold the door shut should the body get bashed hard.

An interesting point is that the new 2010 Camaro has two door strikers--the bear claw style up high on the B-pillar, and then an additional striker plate on the curved transition to the rocker sill--that additional striker plate was needed to keep the door and rocker together as a unit to pass crash tests.

-Brad

 

I put em in my 55 too and even modified em to use the stock handles.it was not easy but now my doors dont fly open anymore.shop around you can find them fairly cheap.

 

Watch some chase scenes in some old gangster movies, the doors were always flying open when they took a corner real sharp and flexed the body.

 

I did the same thing Meddler, same truck too! I wonder why they aren't available for push-pin type door handles?

 

A guy lost a wheel on a '54 Buick not too long ago, the car spun, door came open, girlfriend fell out and died from the injuries. Like in the last two years. That doesn't happen with bearclaw latches.

I know of a local guy who had an A coupe and he and his wife got hurt pretty good in an accident for that same reason - doors came open, they came out.

 

Check out www.triquemfg.com we carry a small but growing line of vehicle specific bolt-on bear claw latch kits. The Altman Easy Latch Kits are designed to work with exterior and interior handles as well as exterior locks. Each bear claw latch and latch plate is specifically designed for the intended vehicle. Everything that is needed to install them is included and there is no welding necessary.

 

second that,I have Altmans Easy-Latch.Work exactly as promised
Paul

 

Instead of the bear claw latches, has anyone made a custom slide rod type set up that would move through the door and into the body, or fastened to the inside-side of the door and then slide into a holder/bracket, if you will, and then lock down? Kinda like the small gate or cabinet locks.

If you have, posts some pics.

 

I would be interested in seeing this too. The only problem I see is if you were in an accident, It would be really hard to get the door open from the outside. I would still like to see it if someone has done it.

 

I see there is something like my idea/thoughts on ebay at the moment for 32'-34' Fords. Would have to do a search under FORD SUICIDE DOOR LOCK to find it.

 

I haven't seen a kit quite like that one but I think it is supposed to be used in addition to latches as a safety device.

 

Correct on using the kit in addition to the original latches.

My idea would work something like a bolt action rifle. See how that goes when I get to doing it.

 

I know this is an old thread but I kinda need some input on bearclaw latches. I would have to disagree with the "doors don't pop open anymore" sentiments that some have posted. A little info: I have a 34 Chevy master 5 window coupe with shaved handles and mini latches and without fail every time I drive it the driver side door pops open. It's done it over 20 times (4 times on the highway at 70-75) and its starting to freak me out a bit to say the least. It had solenoids and I was 99% sure it was electrical so I removed them and put manual handles back on the outside. It still pops open. So much for it being electrical! The car does still have its wood inner structure but it's tight. I don't see any evidence of body flex. I'm a real big guy 425 pounds 5'-9" (hence the reason for a Chevy coupe they are a lot roomier inside) so I figured maybe I was pressing on the door with my weight. I put the wife in there and she is half my size and it still popped open. Could it just be a bad latch? Do they go bad on a car with only 10K on it? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. On a side note I like it better with handles on the outside. Less to worry about.

 

Either striker is not adjusted properly or the latch release lever is too touchy.

 

There needs to to be 2 clicks in the latch as it closes. The tabs that click are dainty, the springs are dinky and a mini single has only 1/2 as many dinky parts to do the full job, andd the lever ratios can be really out of Wack. Cables or bell cranks to dodge the glass are nothing less than problematic.

There's no argument that this style latch is far superior, however the door innards need redesigned to get them to work. The redesign is full of compromises and a dead bolt works as good and way less problems.

 

Both inside and outside handles have a hair trigger but its the same on the passenger side and that side doesn't pop open. Maybe the striker is just out of alignment.

 

Can you readjust the mechanisms so that they're not "hair trigger"? I'd think that could only help.



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be sure to have whatever type of rubber door seal installed before installing bearclaws - made the mistake of not doing this on my wife's '50 Chevy Pu - doors need a strong arm & popper to open - there is no adjustment with ones installed. going to try a thinner door seal, rather than stock installed after the fact.

 

Yes but it's a lever ratio thing and it requires measuring, math and fabrication. All of that inside a door where you can't do it accurately.
The bear claw type latches have such a short throw to release them, a little jiggle on a worn hair trigger catch and pop goes the door.

 

The striker pin and plate should have been made adjustable. At least 1/4"

 

Brand?

 

yep

 

1st set I used were Autoloc. Absolute crap. Always popping off final click when driving. Changed to a set made by one of your guy's in Tennessee. Much superior. heavier gauge claws too. 6yrs no problems.

 

Got a company name?

 

Not sure but they look like autoloc.

 

Back before they were offered by the after market people we used to use bear claw latched from the salvage yards and used two types of installation. For electric we put the latch in the pillar and the striker pin on the door; this allowed an easy install of an emergency release cable and kept the working guts from being banged each time the door was closed. On mechanical the latch was in the door and striker on pillar. Cream colored truck had latches pulled for painting.

 

Personally, I wouldn't use minis on anything other than a A or T roadster door.
Autoloc (Hoffman), ding, ding, alarm bells right there.

 

X2 on this
Friend was having a problem getting his new Autoloc latches to work, bound up when mount bolts tightened and would not catch on second position unless it was adjusted too loose. Grabbed some old USA made TriMark latches (I had salvaged from a junked sweeper), he installed them, and they worked perfectly.

 

Trouble is the car is all done and painted. It's not real HAMB friendly but I figured if anyone would know you all would. Don't really want to go cutting into and have to repaint things.