Hello all, Im going to be excommunicated from my Ford sites so Im coming here for help. I want to put a 350/TH350 in my 64 F100. Im keeping the straight axle and the 9in rear end. I think I can figure out the engine / tranny mounts but I will need help with figuring out how to shift the tranny with my oem column shifter, if that is even possible. and how to mate the driveshaft to the tranny. I plan on a 190hp Goodwrench 350 from Jegs. This is a cruiser and I dont want the headaches of a 700R4 so the TH350 is fine for my desires. My last SBC was a 350 in a 75 Monza, that was over 30 years ago, so Im a bit rusty on what works with what. I will also need help on how to configure the accessory drive system, for now all I need is the alt, but want ps and ac at a later date. I seem to remember that the alt can be mounted on either side and an issue with which wp to use. As we get older there is more **** to remember, Ive been killing brain cells for 40 years, so my capacity to remember anything beyond my name, rank and serial number has diminished over the years.
Shift patterns are standardized. The only glitch might be a difference in leverage, meaning the letters don't line up on the quadrant. This can be fixed by changing the lever, the one on the trans will be easier to change, longer or shorter to get the right travel on the gear lever. You may want to cut and weld the old one or just make a new one. You will probably have to alter the rod too for length.
Make sure the WP, fan and fan clutch are installed on the motor to set the proper distance from the radiator back. In order to set your motor mounts.
Actually, there's a lever with a slot in it (ingenious design by the illustrious Jerry Kugel) Look up KUGEL KOMPONENTS in Paramount City (?) IIRC. Possible you'll have to remove tranny pan, but they came with both types of shift shafts. (if it has a nut on the lever, you don't have to remove the pan; if it was column shifted, pan has to come off. This is for access to the inside end of shift shaft) Man up and pull the tranny pan anyway, replace shift shaft seal AND pan gasket. My '55 F100 got a 350 Chev and 350 Turbo Hydramatic because they were gifted to me by a customer. Otherwise, my nice truck would be running my 354 Hemi. But the Chevy was temporary... LOL The Chevy goes in BEST with the accessory tube crossmember. (I partially boxed my frame, 12" lengths bored 2" to slide over the tube crossmember. Tube member was 1" longer than total width of F100 frame. Bored 2" holes where tube could go thru, boxing plates hanging free. Tacked the tube at the outer frame wall, placed the boxing plates, then welded it all up, 360* around box plates/tube, and same with frame side rail/tube. Set engine down on stock saddle mounts, done. No interference with steering box, plenty of room. NOTE: Restrain yourself from burying the engine as far into the firewall as possible! Leave 2" between distributor and firewall, distributor will remove easily...Transmission dipstick can remain genuine G.M., and easily reachable! Rams horn manifolds will last and not leak, plus ambient temp underhood will remain tolerable. Package with 350 T.H. tranny will use '74 (?) Monte Carlo driveshaft. Bolt it right in. (save $250+!!!) Room underhood to spare. Use a '79 Dodge 360 radiator. Or, you can heed the advise of our 'advanced' members. "190 H.P."; "belly button", etc. Hot rodders have been putting Chevies in Fords since 1955. Still works. Swing the Chevy in a weekend. Or wait and use an FE, or something heavier. Trucks are nose heavy anyway. SBC will 'ambulate' the truck 'til the 'perfect' engine comes along. Better to keep it running than lay it up for months.
All that work to bastardize a nice truck with a boring scrub engine, when you can bolt almost any Ford engine in that huge engine compartment with factory parts zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.............................
If it originally has a Y block it will be with in 10 hp of that 350 which is only 30 hp from the worst 350 made in 73 that has 160 hp,I would not waste all that time for that weak of a motor. If you have to have a GM motor then find a 455 Olds/Buick or 472 caddy which will have more power and much cheaper to purchase.
The 430 Buick and 455 Buick are easy to install in FORDS LoL I've done 2 vans and wow.... the 430 had the Power .............................
Mike IIRC, Kugel won a best new product award at SEMA many years ago for them. I wish I was in on that deal, I bet Jerry has sold a million of those things, I used one on my turbo 350, a slick design and a real problem solver too.
I have been on the fence with this issue, from here on in, Im so sick of the whiny school girl "belly button" bs, Im going into full on rebellion mode. I say small block chevys for ALL!!! Its, wait for it............TRADITIONAL!!!! SCREW this Cleveland crap I have been screwing around with, Ima gonna put a rat motor in my '67 Falcon!!
well, I don't know about that. Yes I can make pretty good power with a gen III, but I have made STUPID power with rat motors, and it was relatively easy. I've made 770+ with quasi streetable N/A 500ci BBC's with OEM iron heads before, on the dyno at Jimmy Richmonds, and over 600 ft lbs at 5000. A N/A gen III will be hard pressed to match those numbers without some pretty exotic parts. I'm just messing with you guys, I am not gonna put a BBC in my falcon...Now in my chevy II, well.....
Im perfectly happy with a 190hp belly button. A 1964 292 doesnt make anywhere near 190 hp, especially one that is 50 years old. The COM is tired and leaks like Wikileaks. My plan is disc brakes, 350/350, rebuild the 9in, toyota ps or R&P and be in under 5k. Zero rust anywhere, including the cowl, inside the doors and undercarriage, decent paint and interior, Its easy to say drop in a 302, 351, 390, its another issue sourcing these engines/brackets/pulleys 20+ years after Ford quit making them.
Nice looking truck. 350 / 350 is a relatively easy swap with great results. Only thing I would change about your plan is I would run a 700r4. No more (or less) problems than a 350th.
I think its time to put a Ford motor in my 37 Chevy p/u so it will go much better,I have been threatening to do it for years and I think the time has arrived so I will be gathering all the parts this winter to do the swap and scrap all the stovebolt motors I have. I am a member of the VCCA and will be prepared to be thrown out and it will be fun doing it.
I retired at age 50. I am happy to spend 5k on this project and have a low maintenance and reliable 53 year old truck that starts every time I turn the key. With two cars, two trucks, and two motorcycles, I spend enough time and money maintaining and fixing things.
That's a great looking truck ! Setting up a Chevy is way easier than figuring out how to get a ford together. When hunting parts for a ford you need to now if it was Finished On Right Day. If you start with the $1500 bare engine and only that - you'll need quite a bit of parts to get it up and running though. Here's just some and don't forget the bolts Oil filter boss adapter & bolts Flex plate & bolts oil dip stick and opposite plug and special bell housing bolt. Oil and temp sender, Pipe plugs for heads Balancer and crank bolt Crank pulley & bolts Intake manifold, exhaust manifolds & bolts Distributor and hold down clamp. Coil and coil bracket Water pump and bolts Water pump pulley, fan, & studs
Well I'm not QUITE ready to "toss the Boss", or "FU the FE" yet...I bought intake valves for the 351 at a swap meet today...
You will have a hard time beating a 5.3 ls swap! Maybe he meant exactly what he said? Maybe he will change his mind? He probably meant to buy a Chevy truck
Why don't you pick up a "Crown Vic" donor car and vulture everything you need out of it. The front end is a perfect swap for your era F100 [ power rack. large disc brakes,and it would lower it 6"] You will also get a roller cam 5.0 AOD combo as well Most of all , it would be reliable and probably quite economical [ your truck should weigh less than the Crown Vic ]
Maybe it's more what you are used to SBC used several different flywheels different intake bolt patterns different bearing sizes It's not a one size fits all motor.
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