Flathead in an A frame, can we talk about it?

Found a piece of channel iron that just fit inside the frame. Made a block that the shaft from the stock pedals would fit into. Then bolted the block to the frame.

I do not have a good picture of the setup. But they are almost in the same place as stock.

 

I know I already posted pics, but here's some more. This kinnda shows how I did it. I really wanna do another 8-29 roadster again unless a 34 3W comes my way If I do another A...I'll do it exactly like this again.

 

I hope this keeps going. I'm sincerely grateful for the insights and ideas, especially the pics of some of your approaches. Yesterday I sort of "fondled" the truck and started looking at things. In the near future, a spare stock A frame. All of my numbers are good, and looking at "Hitchiker's" truck post I think it bears keeping some of that intact and just flopping sheetmetal when the new frame's done. Not to mention that other than the gratuitous rust pits on the running board arms, this frame and axles are really pretty. A strip and paint it would be a "Henry Award" winner. I'd also have the use of the ol girl as I progress. Again, many thanks and lets keep this going. Glad too that it inspires others.

 

Putting a 59 A into a stock 30 A Cpe. Went to install a gutted mock up block using the typical mounts shown in some of the pix above. I also have the trans mount that PSI-Antique Auto sells. Trying to keep this pretty stock looking. Noticed that the stock A steering just is totally in the way and the block w/o exhaust manifold or left head on would never clear.

I did take some pix and need to spend a moment figuring out how to post em. Looking at Chris' install of the of the 21 stud the angle of the column is way different then what is going on with this A. I'd have no problem with that.

I've been meaning to get around to this project for a while and I did a 21 stud into a V8 chassis like 15yrs ago. I seem to remember having to relocate the mounting position of the steering so that the head would clear???? I know that this isn't rocket science, but I'd like to see more pix=a pic is like a thousand words.

 

just bought agreed to buy a '53 F100 from a guy. Plan to use the front brakes, and steering box. Any reasons the '53 box wouldn't work?

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238505

There's a wealth of info here. In this thread is the link to his build, all documented.

 

No reason at all. I'm using a '56 F100 in mine, a '53 is the same thing. Fits just fine. Red's Headers has the interference problem solved for around $200. I got the wedge from Speedway. Vern Tardel has it also. Good Info. here, I'm following the thread.

 

With a F100 box in an A frame you dont need the wedge

 

Now we use an "F1" ('42-'52 Commercial) crossmember, then we hack the shit out of the Model A crossmember, rendering it structurally uselessthen we have to jack the front of the engine up so that it isn't doing a nosedive in the engine compartment and the crankshaft centerline is out of reach from any possible hand cranking, so that we have a place to hang the pedals. There has to be something that makes that worth all the patch work a good idea. WTF? As I started mocking up this scheme it seemed that it may not be worth it to start with and saved my beautifully stepped Model A frame from such insult. I'm sidetracked for now on a '40 coupe project. Doesn't mean I'm not paying attention. Good luck hackers: Fred A

 

Now THIS is funny! Good luck pal!

 

Before I got sidetracked into another project I was mocking up my best A frame to take an early V8 and trans. Trimming the "F1" member to fit was pretty straight forward as was the front mounts. With the body in place, the height of the transmission revealed the problem of too much trans height. That also made the front mount position too low and the engine tilted down in front. The engine crowds the floorboard and the pedals could be better placed. Only grace that I could see was that the '42 style one piece mount helps control the rear axle. Guys have been pounding these crossmembers into their rod frames for decades. Yet seldom is there any comment about the height(problem as I see it) but more about the workaround that is needed to cure that problem. Often not a pretty sight. My 2 cents worth. Fred A

 

Yeah sometimes all the "issues" aren't covered with the F1 crossmember install. Trimming it, as said already, is pretty straight forward. I'm running an early 57 283 with a Hurst mount up front, a Speed Gems bell and a 39 trans with 42-47 open drive guts and mount, tardel style front frame mounts. F1 clutch/brake pedals and bracket. All was good until I put the cab on and found that the pivot pin for the pedals was 2" too far back for the pedals to operate. The pin should be slightly ahead of the junction where the flat floor and toe board intersect. Had to move my pedal bracket forward and lengthen the brake pushrod. The open drive rear mount extends rear ward farther than the torque tube mount that will bolt up to the F1 crossmember, pushing everything rearward. The chevy motor/speed gems combo may have added some length as well. Just another one of those things you don't hear about.

 

I had to go to the old guys to find out the way to install a flatty. the recipe was handed down from at least the 40,s and the actual first instals were done by the Ford testing department for the flathead engine. they tested the flattys in the A's. The recipe the old guys was, use the A rear end,fit in a 32 center crossmember, use 32 rear trans mount , bolt up the driveshaft and install v8, make up front motor mts. hookup the 32 front wishbone w axle,mod the radiator hose fit, install a 37 hudson steering and ford hyd brakes, cant recall much else.

 

Hey guys , sorry but I'm bringing this thread back to life. As I too just started building my 29 roadster and putting a flathead into my model a . Here are some pics of what I've got going so far on modifying my f1 cross member.

 

By the way I also needed to trim down my front cross member due to my pulley rubbing up against it and it not giving me enough clearance if I ever needed to change my belt.

 

Looks good. Let's see some pix of your motor mounts.

 

Here are some pictures , lined up my motor mounts based on torque tube attached to my transmission.

 

"... but essentially want to approach this as if a flatty got dropped into an other wise nice A pickup..."
I think the easiest and probably most traditional way to this approach is to base the car on the stock rear and tube. That eliminates a LOT of worrying and measuring...engine and trans locations are set, just keep the altitude of the U-joint connection in relation to frame rails same as stock A and set front mounts (of the general Hurst A-28 design) where that dictates, adjusting front height to align hand crank. Issues remain choosing style of center crossmember and building a hone for wishbone ball, but basic outline is set.
Buy May and June 1954 HRM for a detailed build...while at that, pick up April--July '56, too, and let Don Francisco build your flathead.

 

I finally finished my f1 cross member. I ended up doing it as a bolt on to the frame in case I change my mind later on, I can always remove it.

 

looks good. mine is bolt in also

 

Mine never materialized kids. I ended up doing a good $$$$$ job for funds, more jobs started to "find" me, then I screwed up real good and opened a shop! WTF is wrong with me? At least it still runs and drives as-is but it's not what I had in mind. Kool, just not "the truck". Might take a different approach to that one and focus on my hanger queens. Been without for too long. But hey, this could lead me to an A V-8 coupe too. Keepin the faith...

 

could a guy get a kit from Denis cling, he makes one so you can use stock pedals from an A