1952-59 Ford How big of a job is the aerostar springs?

I have had them sitting in the shop for 2 months. I get limited shop time and wanna make sure I don't down my ride for extended periods of time.
Just wondering, because I will priobably do blocks at the same time.

I know, all these posts about time.
I don't get too much free time, so I have to plan.

 

I'm right there with you. I didn't think it was too bad. did mine in one night. Not the rear though, took me maybe 1-2 hours.

 

You should be able to knock it out in a couple of hours. HRP

 

There is a discussion with pictures in our archives,bummer is the search function since the HAMB upgrade ****s so you would have to search it the slow way.

 

Yeah,I changed the 62 Galaxie springs after cutting a coil and a half in an afternoon.

 

It was pretty straightforward when I did mine. I took care of the front springs and rear blocks in one day. The blocks are a breeze. Don't recall the exact time they took me though.

 

Do you use the Aerostar springs to lower the front end or to make it stiffer?

 

It's pretty easy IMO. Most of the time I don't usually even use a coil spring compressor, but you probably should for safety sake. Also, this depends a lot on the springs you're removing and how tall they are.

*Edit - Just to be clear, there is a lot of tension stored in a coil spring, so you really should relieve that tension before lowering the lower arm, either with a compressor, or some guys use a torch to cut the spring. I just want to cover my **** and say use the method without a compressor at your own risk.

The steps I use for most front coil replacements...

1) Jack up the car and lower on some jack-stands under the ch***is rail.
2) Remove the shock. Insert the spring compressor now and compress the spring. I've never actually used a spring compressor on my '54 or most other cars I've worked on, but my '54 also had cut springs in it already, so they were probably shorter than stock.
3) Jack up on the bottom of the lower ball joint just enough to support the weight of it, not to compress it.
4) Loosen the castle nut on the lower ball joint and undo it just until the nut reaches the top of the threads. Don't take it all the way off. Then lower the jack SLOWLY (in case the ball joint is already loose).
5) Hammer lower ball joint hole on the spindle with a decent size hammer until the lower ball joint pops loose. Or, use a ball joint separator or pickle fork if needed, but usually it should pop loose.
6) Jack up on the bottom of the lower ball joint to relieve enough tension that you can remove the lower ball joint castle nut by hand. Make sure there's a gap between the loose castle nut and spindle to ensure you've relieved the tension before you try and remove the nut.
7) Remove the castle nut
8) Lower the jack SLOWLY while standing back and to the side. The lower a-arm/spring plate should lower enough that the spring will come out, but stand back just in case.
9) Remove the spring and install the new one.
10) Reverse the steps for installation. Don't tighten the ball joint castle nuts until you have the suspension under load (use a jack under the ball joint). You don't want to preload your ball joint and tear your grease boots when you lower the car and the suspension is under load again.

There's also loads of videos on YouTube... most of the procedures for any vintage car with ball joints will be very similar.

*Edit - here's a video showing basically the same process as above... although I try not to use a pickle fork like this guy or ball joint separator unless I absolutely have to. I always completely destroy my ball joint seals using those things, so a hammer on the spindle to pop it loose is always the first method I try.

 

It lowers it (compared to stock), and because they're a more modern progressive spring, the ride quality is MUCH nicer.

 

Thanks

 

And don't forget to plan for an immediate front end alignment. Remember last year when I posted I had a blowout at 70mph?? That happened because I wanted to make sure I liked the new springs before I had the front end aligned, so drove it about 100 miles. Wasn't pulling to one side, ect, felt pretty normal, but I wore thru 2 almost new tires (less than 1k miles on them) in that 100 miles and one blew. I know, head up my **** not looking for tire wear, but I sure wasn't expecting that much in that few miles when everything was feeling right.

 

I took my aerostars out, it was too low and I had a tire to fender s****ing issue. Me and my brother swapped out the springs, 40 minutes flat.

 

Thanks Guys. I have a lift so, it makes it easier. I just wanna get in the zone, knowing what lies ahead. I guess I'll change all 4 shocks at the same time.

 

It's been MANY years since I did this type of thing, but I remember I used to unbolt the top of the shock, but leave the bottom connected, loose bolts, but still connected. That way the spring can't get wild and attack you.

 

Put a chain through the spring keep it from launching

 

Give this a look,pictures tell a story. https://mainlineford.wordpress.com/2016/02/26/finished-suspension/

 

Best way to split the ball joints is the tool that Concoursparts sell. Spreads the ball joints using the ball joint stud. Just leave the nut on the ball joint so it locates the tool and unwind it. Works a treat. Think the tool is about $16.

 

After you do 200 or so of these you learn all the tricks. I always found it was best to do them on the floor with a floor jack one side at a time. This is in a busy shop. Anyone of us could do a pair in easily an hour. We used to cringe when the shop ran a spring special with a free alignment...