COE A 42 GMC Bike Hauler thread

Be out of town till end of August . Wife made me go to Washington st. On vacation , and I'm already going crazy . See y'all in September . Blue

 

Anywhere close to Spokane? Going to GGuys August 20.

 

B-BOP , we are in Tacoma now . Looks like the NW nationals are going on in Yakima this weekend but stuck here going to a wedding . Would like to go to GG , we will see . Will let you know , up to the wife . This is her camping trip . Blue

 

There is a state park right in the city of Spokane. Riverside State park http://parks.state.wa.us/573/RiversideYou would never know that you were in a city. Or a little ways out of town, there is Farragut state park, we spent many summer holidays there. Probably our favorite camp spot.
https://parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/parks/farragut

 

B-BOP , will be at this even this weekend . Still don't have plans for 20th yet . We stayed at staircase park last three days . OMG what a place . Blue

 

Still in WA. Went to the event above with my friend Jerry . We took 3 of his cars ,a31 32 and 33 ford . I got to drive the model a built in 1958 . What fun . Drove it back to his shop and he drove me back to event in his 32 . I then got to drive his 33 back . Great car 3 x2 on a flat head and 39 zephyr trans . Two more weeks . Also got to see these guys . Sorry no COES . Blue

 

Went to a show inT9O , WA yesterday . This was the only thing close to a COE . On the way east to home and back to work . YEA ! Hope to get the front half in paint by end of September . Blue

 

The color would definitely not be my choice, but very cool. Hot rodded??

 

its sept time to get back at it and what happened to all the pics JOYFLEA

 

Well I'm back from our vacation . I took a little fall while taking a hike with my wife . No big deal for first few days . Now I'm so sore with rib pain .
Been working on the headlights and have one light patched up . Will start other light tomorrow and will get some photos while leading them up . Been raining a lot here so I haven't sandblasted the other parts yet . Still planing on painting this month . Here are a few photos of our friends camping with us , all period correct .

 

Got up early this morn. and felt good enough to go out in the shop and do some work . I had to change the headlights I'm using . Change the back plate and add 1.25" to the bucket . Got that done earlier but had to grind and reweld about four times . Then came the cleaning and cleaning and cleaning but finally got to tin metal and lead . Started filling the bucket to shape . Been a long time since I last leaded . Didn't go deep enough in some spots . Will fix that tomorrow with my lead irons . Then start other headlight . I had to mig the bucket since I had no way to get into the inside to do planninshing . I will get some photos on patching and leading on other bucket .Blue

 

Well time to start the other HL bucket . As you can see we changed it quite a bit .

First we have to mark where we want to cut . Then I drill a small hole at the end of the cut line then cut up to it . This hole will stop cracks I hope .


After it is cut we rough in the curve of the back to match fender . Then bolt it down to fender . And with a lot of measuring and leveling I tacked it to where it won't move . The double check everything before I pull it off the fender . Will build filler patches after lunch . Blue
The tilt down is me holding iPad not straight .

 

So after patching the side of the bucket it was time to lead her up .
The things you will need to lead is a heat source of some sort , tinning ****er ,copper pad or brush , lead , backing soda , paddle , and something to keep lead from sticking to the paddle , l use Bees wax .

First clean everything and rough the metal with 36 grit .
Then tin . When done tinning was real good with backing soda and water to get rid of all the acid from the ****er . Then I clean read good with a SS brush . Then it's time to lead . Put on more than you think you'll need . When cool clean real good .
This YouTube will explain better than I can describe .



Now time to start shaping the new lead .


Above is after leading and below is filed and first sanding .

I will use my big iron to fill some low spots . This is a lot less heat than the torch I used to put on the lead . This is an electric one and not the ones I have that are pot heated .

 

Last two days I've been working on skinning the right door . First I drilled out my hinges to over size pins . Since I had already rolled out the panels on the wheel when I had help I was ready to go . I pulled the old panel off by grinding the edge so I could use it as a pattern . After I laid out the new skinny and checked my line , it was off to the tipping die on bead roller . Happy with that I blasted the inner door and coated it with KBS . Well then mounted and welded up . Metal finished today . Before I lead up the seam I will find where the mirrors will mount up and spot a brace up on the inside of the skin . Blue

 

Incredible work, Blue! Keep those updates coming!

 

Ditto's, Incredible work. This thread is exactly why I like H.A.M.B. so much. Keep up the lead work...
I'll be watching..................

 

Seems that new/repop hinges have gone up in price...even though they are on back order. Could you tell me what is the part number of the pin you bought and the drill bit size. Thanks

 

I used a ford oversize pin . But if I had it to do over I might do something different . Did you try Chevys of the 40's .? There are some machine bolts made for tool and die that are ground to size . I think a 5/16 would work and you could round off the head and cut off the threaded part . They may make them in metric closer to size you need . I've been thinking of making some custom mirrors that I could mount with these and put a nut on bottom and be able to tighten down . Blue

 

I called 2 weeks ago and she said no ETA, I will try your idea. I really need to hang the doors to finish the alignment side of things! Any suggestion on clearance; pin dia + 0.**x"? Thanks!

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stripper-bolts/=14csgin

 

Thanks for the link Wolfcreek,
Blue I have the military mirror mounts I think they are too Spartan for the BikeHauler, Have you looked at the civi '40 Chevys, with a little m***aging and shaving they might work for you...

 

Been doing body work and not much to show . Will be going out of town on Wenesday to Mittler Brothers for a sheet metal cl*** this weekend and picking up a new piece of equipment for my shop . Still looking for a good front bumper . Going to do some back roads on the way up to Mo. and see what I can find . Lots of old farms and ranches between here and there . Latter , Blue .

 

Finished up a cl*** today with Josh Bullock and Jamey Jordan . Both are true craftsmen. Will go by Mittler brothers in morn and load up my new hammer then head home . Last trip of the year I promise and will work on the COE . Blue

 

Made it back home . Pulled a lot of stuff out of the shop today including the COE . Then I unloaded the new hammer out of my truck and moved it on its side into the work shop . Then we stood it up and put one of the arms on . I need to get my rubber pads under the corners and bolted down . While everything is out of place I'm going to do a needed fall cleaning . Blue

 

Well I got the hammer all set up . I put it on two strips of heavy duty rubber for a horse trailer . May be too soft as I'm getting a little too much shake at certain speeds . I will try putting the pad under the whole base with some shims to retard the movement .

I played with a 18x24 piece of cold roll and in about 45 minutes I had roughed in this tank half . Needs planninshing and *****ling . I hope the learning curve is not tooooooo long . Got to put in the time like everything else . Blue

 

Wow... I'm speechless..

 

Nice piece of gear

 

Thanks guys . I hope I live long enough to become proficient at it . LOL Blue

 

So today I wanted to get on to the other door skin . The Doody gap on the latch was way off . I welded a 3/8 piece of16g onto the door frame . I then shut the door and scribed a .250 line off the jam . This will give me a 3/16 gap witch is what's around the rest of the door . Then trimmed it up and as soon as I dress up the welds I can jump on the skin . Last time I rolled out the skin witch took for ever . This time I'm going to do it on my new hammer . Should be faster ? Will start in morning. Blue

 

When l did the other door I rolled out two skins . But I decided to hammer out this skin . I don't have a set of sweeps so I used a contour gage to match up to my dies . The closest I had was a 24 , probably needed a 36 .

Put the die in the hammer and set it up to a gap I ended up using .then I tried it on a bunch of s**** . When doing this process I spray the metal with wd40 and trans fluid . It makes it go through nice and the red trans fluid lets you see your progress and it doesn't mar the finish .

After practicing all day Saturday, I got out in the shop and hammered out the skin in about an hour this morn. Lots of checking , start and stopping! Happy with the results I marked my edges and it was time for the tipping die on the bead roller . Didn't get pictures of panel going in tipper so this is a few of a s**** going through . Turns up a nice edge . After I hammered the edges down I had a flat spot so back to the hammer and stretched some more , very hard to do in the frame . You can see marks because of no fluid .







Notice marks .

Had one oilcan but a little s****ing over the braces and it was gone . I have a little more metal work in morn . But it is a big improvement over rusted out stock with 14 screw holes . Blue