Hot Rods HOW DO YOU SAFETY WIRE BUTTON HEAD BOLTS?

How do you safety wire ****on head bolts? With hex head the one wire goes over the other and keeps it down around the hex head. With a ****on head the wire is just going to slip over the head. Wire on top of the ****on head would reduce the clearance the ****on heads were there for to begin with. These are on older Wilwood Discs but it's a general question.

You Loc-***e guys can just sit back and STFU

 

I've never seen nor head of a ****on head drilled for saftey wire,the only thingI can think of if the ****on head had a collar to space the mushroom head up high enough to wrap the wire aroundthe collar. HRP

 

As long as the bolts are drilled for safety wire, it doesn't matter. The wire going thru the drilled hole has to always be in a positive direction. the other section of wire can go over the top if need be. It is a better safety wire job if the wire can go around the side of the bolt. These bolts might be of the type were you run a single strand and the do the only twisting of the wire at the end when the two ends meet up, forming the "pig tail". If you go to the FAA book "AC 43-13-1.b, ch 7, pg 7-20, fig 7-3" you can see some examples of how to safety different types of bolts and different configurations. (You can see this online) I use this all of the time when teaching students how to safety wire properly. Any questions, you can PM me.
Mark

 

Have you ever seen drilled ****on heads? HRP

 

You probably would want to use .041 safety wire if you use the single strand method. It is harder to use than the typical .032 that is used for most (double twisted) safetying.
Mark

 

http://www.faa.gov/do***entLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/Chapter_07.pdf

 

Yes, most bolts are of the hex head type on aircraft. Some electrical items use a "****on" head type screw, these are of the type that would be the single wire safety type. Most of the time, the safety wire is really only to keep a cover on (prevent a shorting scenario).
Mark

 

I don't see how it is possible? There's no shoulder to drill?

 

I have yet to see loc***e come in a spool. Hmmmm, maybe I will Shark Tank it!

 

Bandit, those bolts are not designed to be drilled. they would require another type of locking feature eg: lock washer. lock nut, etc. Yes, are correct that they do not have a shoulder to allow drilling for safety wire.
Mark

 

You safety wire the nut end of them as a rule. If they go into a blind hole you are pretty much out of luck.

 

Red Loc***e under the bolt head......

 

I made a mistake once on my Harley and I used Loc***e on the ****on heads on the brake rotors. Tried to remove them for a brake job years later and I couldn't get them to budge. Broke two Allen head sockets using an impact wrench on them. Finally had to cut a nut in half (to make sure I got good penetration), weld the nuts over the top of the bolts and back them off with an impact wrench and socket. The heat of the welding loosened the Loc***e's death grip.

Moral of the story; last time I ever use Loc***e on ****on heads or anything that heats up during use.

 

My quandary is why would someone put ****onhead bolts in a spot that required safety wire? They might be pretty in that spot but the correct bolts drilled for safety wire would be a lot more practical.

 

I don't know **** about it, obviously.
I thought drilled ****on heads was dumb so I googled it.

Can't say they are wired right or wrong , but they damn sure are drilled and wired ****on heads.

Contact will woo and see what they give you

 

Anti seize deep in the aluminum holes, loc***e under the head and two top threads.
Harley's get special treatments.
Some heat before the impact would also help ease the death grip

 

Harley Davidson not only recommends Loc***e on the rotor bolts, when you buy new ones the Loc***e is already applied. They have been doing it that way for years now. the factory bolts come with Blue Loc***e applied - see the picture. I used to be the GM of a dealership and we did them all that way, and many of our mechanics used Red as well. A little butane torch heat and believe it or not an Impact gun and they come tight out. The Impact allows you to put direct pressure down on the Torx or Allen while "Burping" them loose. Works every time, just make sure you use lots of inward pressure and hold it square to the bolt.


As for How Loc***e recommends application on a blind bolt -

• For blind holes, apply several drops of the product down the internal threads to the bottom of the hole.
• ***emble and tighten as required.

Loc***e says to Never use threadlocker compound under the head of a nut or bolt.

 

Yep, Each set of Wilwood brakes I have installed has had drilled ****on head allens. But I'd never try drilling them at home!

 

I put hex head bolts on the wilwood brakes on my Chevy II....lock***e...no wire.

 

When i was an aircraft mechanic, we sometimes used small screws that were drilled with a very small dimple in the thread, and had a plastic insert installed. The plastic was an interference fit with the tapped threads and stayed there.Working on the airplanes we only used the fasteners that were called out in the manual. Didn't just grab a bunch of bolts and see what fit.

 

I think they vary the fastener depending on how much room there is inside the hat for clearance. I think they always use hex head on the caliper bolts and caliper adaptors

 

Wilwood tech said the new ones use Loc-***e. He didn't give me the impression that he had much experience with safety wire.

 

I have an older set of Wilwood brakes on my 55, they are all safety wired...the newer ones on my Chevy II were not provided with bolts with holes in them. And since I built the car to be kind of period correct (yeah that sounds stupid, talking about wilwood brakes on it!) I put older style bolts on it.

****on head bolts are one of my pet peeves, it's a really stupid design, having a hex so small compared to the size of the bolt threads. I get rid of them whenever I can.

 

Safety wire might keep a bolt from coming out but they can often still back out enough to be loose. I only count on the safety wire to provide evidence of tampering.

 

This got me curious so I called a freind of mine who is a Sr. guy at Wilwood. They stopped using the Safety Wired ****on Heads on most of the Street brake kits. Main reason was too many calls from customers that had a hard time understanding how to properly use safety wire, so they changed to standard bolts and Loc***e. The True racing kits still use the safety wired bolts!

 

If a hex headed safety wired bolt loosens, then you haven't wired it correctly, or it was loose in the first place. The wire keeps a constant clockwise pull on the bolt head. If you follow it around to the next bolt , the wire is still pulling it tighter. Many electrical components on aircraft use drilled cheese-headed screws which are lockwired.

 

Well one question got answered, there are drilled ****on head machine screws out there .Now Click just has to hope that they are available in the size he needs.
This outfit has drilled socket head cap screws https://www.northwestfastener.com/drilled-bolts/drilled-socket-cap-screws
I think I probably just looked at 400 photos of ****on head screws and none showing that are drilled for safety wire.

 

If you use the single wire method to safety the bolts, then the concern over the clearance because the wire is on the top of the bolt is put to rest. Look at the picture I referenced to get an idea of what I mean. The bolts would have a positive locking feature and they would not back out.
Engine man, if you want an anti-tamper type of safety wire then there is always the copper breakaway wire. As said, if the safety wire is done properly, the bolts will not back out.

 

Good enough for a jet engine, good enough for your application. Start watching at about 5:45. He shows 3 different ways to properly use safety wire.

 

Mil spec MIL-DTL-18240 covers thread locking devices. Type N is for what you refer to, plug or pellet.