Technical Quick and dirty sheet metal hose barb?

I need to put a 3/8" hose barb in my oil pan for oil return from the filter. Rather not take the pan off. Last time I welded on an oil pan in the car it out g***ed with a boom and scared the **** out of me, plus I don't if I have welding access. Does anyone make a nutsert type deal for hoses?

 

i wonder if you could use a banjo fitting on the oil drain plug hole, like mercedes did with there ****** cooling lines.

 

run the return to the fuel pump housing ,drill and tap the housing for the barb.

 

I've used a lot of nutserts/rivnuts, but I don't recall seeing any in an NPT thread.

 

Yeah I thought about it but the drain plug is bottom center of the pan, first thing to hit the ground.

I did have it piped to the lifter valley but it discharges oil so fast the engine smoked. I have it plumbed to the dipstick tube now which works great but I can't check the oil. It's amazing, even with a 1/16" restriction in the line it will fill a mason jar in a few seconds.

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/63165401
Something like this would work. Just be sure the rotating parts don't hit it.
You might be able to solder a plate on the outside of the pan with pipe threads in it, too. I sweated a pan mounted dip stick off and soft soldered a patch back on from a later model Chevy pick up engine.

Gary

 

Me either. I suppose I could try a regular 1/2" nutsert, some JB weld to seal it on the outside, and make a barb with straight thread and seal it.

It will go in the side of the sump so no clearance problem with the crank. But I don't have a way to install that fitting without removing the pan. Soldering may be an option...

Thanks guys for the replies.

 

What type of engine are you working on?
Is there any spots on the block that could be drilled and tapped?
Can you plumb it back into a pressure port and recirculated?
Timing cover?

 

if you want really quick and dirty, just punch a hole in it with a ***** punch, a bit smaller than the tubing size you want to use, then pound a piece of tubing into the hole. and clean and jb weld it.

But if you want to do it right, you might want to remove the oil pan. It only takes an hour or two to pull an engine.

 

Maybe you could run your steering column through it and mount some gauges in it???
I was afraid that thread would go over like a lead fart here but had to test the water...
I think it might be cool in the rite application but maybe a little too RR oriented or "creative" for here.
It didnt last long enough to see if anyone else liked it

 

Maybe that's the key. Modify the dip stick tube by welding some type of T into it and then plumb into the T.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Years ago when we used to braze fitting onto oil pans in the dealership but we removed them from the engine. Last thing you want to do is drill a hole and have all the metal filings inside the oil pan. Personally I'd pull it off; do it once, do it right.

 

Yes, anything you do, should be done with the pan off of the engine.

Gary

 

If you make a small hole and then use a taper punch to enlarge/flange it (like a bullet hole) would there be enough material to tap threads?

 

If the pan was the only place I could run the return line to I'd remove the pan. and take it to where a fitting could be welded on. I'd still be looking for that one piece that would let you remove it' drill and tap for a fitting and let the return oil return to the crank case when it is re***embled.

 

squirrel nailed it....

 

A buddy of mine is a master TIG welder in SF. He works cheap, for cool guys, with small jobs to do.

If you feel like pulling the pan, I can get you two hooked-up.

 

Did you get lost ?

 

there is fittings on the market that allow a hole to be drilled and then screw in the fitting. Look in the turbocharger world, they all need oil return lines and many of the install kits have these fittings.

 

Take the time to take the pan off and do it properly.

 

Still no mention of what type of engine and why you need a seperate return over what was there from the factory ????
Dont most engines pump pan oil thru the filter and return it back to the oiling system as pressure???

 

Ford flathead 60. No oil filter from factory.

Thank you all. Your submissions will be reviewed by a panel of judges and the winner will be notified live and in person by our famous Prize Patrol.

 

now it makes sense...I bet a pan gasket is expensive!

 

and one that's the correct size still (not shrunk from age) could be even more expensive?

 

I just put the pan on a month ago using an old full gasket set. Had to soak the rail gaskets in water. But I could make them, not that big a deal. I thought piping the filter output into the lifter valley would work but it's over oiling the guides or slinging off the crank, not sure.
Going to have to wait a bit, I'm taking auto body at the JC and doing the bodywork on my heap, hope to paint it before the semester ends and need to be able to get it there and back for cl***es.

 

btw, oil filters on old engines are over rated.

 

$75.00 for a brittle shrunk up possibly incomplete set is ridiculous
fresh complete sets are less than half that
order a new one,
by the time it arrives you could have the pan off, clean, brazed, painted and ready to go back on.

 

Another way...sandpaper a spot on the pan clean and shiny and tin it with solder. You can actually tin fairly substantial sheetmetal with the high amp weller gun, not the low end model, and of course a propane torch will do it fine. All fire will be outside of pan here.
Sharp punch makes a tapered hole, bang it out til a 1/8 pipe or whatever you are using tap will barely start and run it in covered in grease.
De-grease finished hole with brake cleaner.
Tin fitting threads, screw in, temporarily plug fitting and warm it up with torch til solder flows.

 

I have seen numerous turbo kits over the years that supply a fitting to do exactly this. This is how it is done, on the car;
Do Not drain oil! Pick a spot ABOVE the full oil line. You punch a small hole in the pan, then using a tapered punch slowly tap the hole larger until it is the correct size for the tap. By doing this you have folded the metal over giving plenty of material to tap. Using a four flute tap, put heavy grease in the flutes and then tap the hole. Now you can drain the oil so that any stray bits from taping are drained out. Install the pipe fitting with teflon seal and you are good to go.
Been done this way for years with great success. Like I said, many turbo companies supply the fitting and punch to do this,