Have seach net forever and can not find this axle and how to remove axles.. have not tried axle puller but have tried drum reverse method ... no luck... this axle does not have a hole in stud area it is solid all the way around. This axle has no play at all but makes a pinging sound as if something is pinging the baby moons on or off car... we are at a loss at what can make this ping noise. .. new drums and shoes but made a thump noise before new shoes and drums... also what kit would you recommend for disc brake conversion. .. this car will not stop worth any thing with drum brakes.
is this car a 56 chevy? just a wild guess. It helps to know. slide hammer usually works. as for adding disk brakes...if you really think you need them, start with the front. Rear disks are mostly a waste of time/money on these old cars.
Yea I know I forgot to post year after post ... sorry... 23 T bucket and has no front brakes but in the works... was bought like this... the axle ID says it is from that era. Figured if I broke axle down may save money and needs welding on axle tube but that's another story. .. looking for suggestions that are POSITIVE! next step is looking at used rear end but have not measured length to see if this one was modified.
no C clips on the 55-64 chevy rear ends. And it sure looks like that's what it is, although it would help to see more of it... I'm POSITIVE that the slide hammer I showed above usually works to pull those axles.
Thought the axle was a Ford 9 inch till we cleaned gunk off of it... thanks for the response ... was needin to know if I missed something on removing axles... will get a slide hammer as shown. I have attached a pic of motor... for those that like nice motors... the lady that owns it is proud. She hand painted the motor with a brush about size of your thumb... 5 coats of POR paint.. Thanks again. ..
Really that bothered you that much! Oh well can't please all.. I do enjoy seeing folks projects. ..hope you have a better day now...
Just to add to what Squirrel said. The slid hammer he pictured distributes the load evenly at the axle flange. If you just yank on one lug it is trying to bent the flange and pulls to one side. Even so, that usually works. I think you may want to remove the retainer nuts and possibly drive the bolts through. Those may also be points of resistance. I had one once, that I slide hammered for at least 15 minutes. My 12 year old son walked up while I was taking a break and it popped out for him while he was just seeing how the the slide hammer worked. Hardly any pressure at all. He thought he was pretty hot stuff after that.
Have you removed the 4 nuts and bolts from the axle flange/housing that hold the axle in? If so listen to squirrel.
I will give this a try... thanks for your time and input.... least I know it may take some time to pop loose... may even let her try some too... now I feel that I am not missing anything... thanks again
Nuts were removed but bolts were not removed... first timer on doing this and wanted to make sure I was not missing something... but now I know it may take some time for it to let go... I will try to remove bolts but the axle hub does not have a hole to get to bolts... thanks
like said, you will need to remove the nuts and take the brakes off the backing plates. you do not have to disconnect the brake line, the backing plates will stay in place. using the slide hammer will pull the axle/bearing/seal all out. then you can remove the center section. are you sure the "pinging" noise isn't a bad u-joint? does the car have hubcaps?
Baby moons and have had them off also... and still pinged... I will install new u joints first. Thanks for that tip to try, alot easier that axle removal. Will follow up...
You dont need a hole in the axle flange to access bolts. You should be able to tap the bolt through with a punch or another same size bolt. If, stubborn at first, protect the end of the bolt with the nut started. The ford 9 axles can be removed with two combination wrenches if needed. I bet the bearing race is froze in the housing.
You don't need to remove the brakes, either. Just take off the nuts, and pull the axle out. The bolts may be pressed into the bearing retainer plate, if so, you do NOT want to remove them, it makes ***embly more difficult.
If that is a '55 or '56 Chevy housing, don't heat it unless you are ready to buy some EXPENSIVE bearings. As big duece said, the bearing race may be 'frozen' to the housing. Heat will free it but you WILL cook the bearing.
i just did this job last week. the equalizer bar and the e-brake lever was in the way and needed to be removed to clear the bearing. maybe mine is different 1955 axle.
A u- joint can be worked back and forth with the driveshaft loose. You won't hear the noise, but you will feel a tight place in the joint if it's bad. A bad joint will make a tinging or clicking noise at slow speeds, that's mostly heard when backing up, but might be heard going forward too.
Replaced u joints first that was not issue... rolled her from under carport and heard and felt popping so here was what was found... and again just want to say thanks to all that had some input...
i removed mine by cutting through the lock collar with a die grinder. i cut down close then "opened" the cut with a chisel. i did the same with the bearing. new one can be put on "carefully" with a punch and hammer.
Not to sound 'Contraire', but DON'T 'tap' or 'pound' that axle bearing on! (especially the companion ring!) Shock will loosen its grip, and you may experience the axle and wheel with drum sliding out on the application of the least amount of force on a right turn. My son and his friend replaced an axle brg in his '63.5 Galaxie one Saturday evening, after the parts house was closed... a 34" piece of 1.25" galvanized pipe made an ideal driving sleeve. Bearing pounded on with a 4 lb. sledge...as did the locking companion ring. 3 days later, the right hand axle slid out, Rich was amused...No brakes, (drum was beyond shoes!) Ne emergency brake, right hand cable pulled up 'some' slack, but even reverse didn't do anything. He was UN-splined. Luckily, he was approaching a rail crossing, uphill, and the Galaxie came to a stop...he let it roll backwards, steering it to a stump off the road...that stopped him. Race car guys ('Roundys') used to hammer them on, then tack weld the companion ring in 3 or 4 places. I press 'em on. That's the rule.
That would be one hell of a ride.... think I will just pay someone to press it off and on... would not feel confident I would have it set right...
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