I read this thread about twice a week, since it was posted. It has made me a believer that anything it possible if you know what the heck your doing or someone with knowledge can define the correct route to take before you fall off edge to complete failure. it just makes you try harder!
I was going to look up this thread to see if there was any updates. I am going to be getting a few rusty and crusty early 283's. One still has a 4 speed attached. Ryan.
I never thought I see HAMBers approving of an overhaul instead of a proper machining and rebuild. I got a 59 Ford with a six that ran 175 miles then wouldnt start again, just backfired. I didnt mind because I dont like 6 cylinder engines. and I had another pink 59 with a stuck 292. 52,000 miles. I hammered out the stuck pistons and honed the cylinders, installed new pistons and rings. Of course new gaskets, bearings valve job, etc. Its been on the road for about 15 years now. Leaks a little oil but doesnt smoke, I drive it often
@Old wolf what is the update on that old cheby. I'm very interested I have a 327 that could use some help.
Ive gotten sidetracked. been bailing hay and the tractors and equiptment are always needing something fixed. I suppose that's normal when using 1940,s tractors and 1970,s equiptment LOL. and we are still trying to get moved. I got the 283 block cleaned up and honed and the cam bearings installed. haven't touched it in a while. Im going to make a last cutting of hay tomorrow. and should be back in the shop in November. I can get it warm and comfortable in the shop with the wood stove.
Bump! I'm trying the coffee can trick on some OT pistons and I remembered this thread. Any progress on Zombie-283? I know others are interested in the this one...
Actually ive got the short block assembled. I used the stock cam from a 305. and have a set of 305 -602 casting heads I plan to use. I had a lot of pictures and our computer crashed and I lost them all. The crusty 283 is going into a 1942 jeep that is a mud racer. Havent decided if I will use a stick trans or a powerglide. The mud very quickly clogs the radiator fins. So you actually want a very loose piston to cyl wall clearance. Because it will become overheated from time to time. Thinking about mounting the radiator in the rear behind the seat. and routing the coolant with pipes to it and using a electric fan?
Good luck, Will be an interesting project. A few years back I took a 327 and tried the same thing... Unfortunately the block had cracks in it so gave up...
Hey Old Wolf, I know nothing about mud racing, but I am leery of a set up where there's a boiling hot radiator behind the seat, under pressure. Sounds like a scalding hazard waiting to happen after a failure or a crash. Can you make a front plate a louver plate or gill plate to block off the front of the radiator? Mount it 1/2" away from the radiator. At least block off the lower half where most of the mud is. Then run a tight shroud on the back of it and an electric fan. I was also wondering if you pulled out the fins and just ran the tubes would that be better than clogged fins? Engine question: was that a used camshaft you are using? Thanks. We still want a picture of that engine!