I installed a new gas tank and sending unit in my 59 Apache. I had to use an inverted flare fitting between the sending unit and fuel line. It started and ran and I did not notice the old gas smell in cab. But this evening I noticed strong gas smell. When I inspected it I find gas or smelly condensation right around the connection. I was attempting to not over tighten the fittings. What's up? Do I just need to further tighten the connections? Should I have used teflon tape or such on the threads?
flare fittings do not require teflon tape. They do need to be tight enough. And they also need the proper fittings, if you mixed some tapered pipe fittings in with the flares, it won't work right.
My fuel line fitting on the line from the carb was smaller than the fitting on the new sending unit I received from Tanks, Inc. So I got an inverted flare adapter fitting and they seemed to mate perfectly.
My question is on the line from the fitting out is it a Double flair or just a single flair? Squirrel is correct, NO TEFLON TAPE ON FUEL LINES. The Wizzard
So I'm very new to working on cars and don't know much yet. Are you referring to the fitting at lower left? And what does a double flare vs single flare look like? Here is a picture showing the misfit before I added the adapter.
A double flair is where the steel line is folded over inside the flair making the tube double wall. This is necessary for good clamp force. I believe I see your issue. It looks to me like your flair is split around the rim. If that's the case it will never seal. It takes a specific tool to do a double flair not just any flair tool. The Wizzard
Dear Mr The Wizzard. Do you mean that this custom fracture is short of ideal? And if so, what is the remedy? And do I need a single flare or a double flare?
That fracture is a Problem. Part of a double flair is so you have some compression when tightening the line nut without Crushing the steel line. Crushing the line from over tightening it is exactly what has happened here. Yes you need to do another Double Flair on the line. Then be careful. The Wizzard
Yup, your flare is broken. This is what the flare process looks like, and why it is called a double-flare: See how the metal is folded over on itself? Double-flare. There is a corresponding 45º cone inside the fitting this fits against. That line should be replaced, as it has work-hardened and fatigued enough to fail there. The rest of the line should be considered suspect.
Gents. Your replies are just what the doctor ordered, and greatly appreciated. The photos are worth a thousand words. Thank you.
And that little crack totally explains why the cab has reeked of gas since I bought it a month ago. Sure love that truck.
Did you also replace the rubber filler hoses? where the gas cap goes.... be sure to use the right type hose. And inspect for any other leaks, there are several places they can develop. been driving my 59 since 1977
Hi Squirrel I replaced the gas tank, hold down straps, sending unit, and complete filler neck assembly including big hose little hose grommet and cap. Everything was peachy keen yesterday when I connected the line and ran it for a few minutes. But then today after work I noticed it was reekin and leakin. Flaring is beyond my skills and confidence so I will take it to the radiator guy who gave me the inverted flare fitting. I'd be interested to see your 59.
It won't cost much to do all of the fuel lines. VERY worth it. Burning such a beautiful truck to the ground would really suck.
Gimpy can you elaborate? What do you mean by "do all of the fuel lines"? Sorry. I'm 54 and this last weekend was the first time I touched a wrench to a car. I've got a lot to learn. But the gas tank replacement otherwise went well. And it was fun to soundproof and heatproof the cab. Partially. More to come.
Or if you have other vehicles invest in a good quality hydo flare kit from Mastercool and never worry again. Fuel lines, trans lines and brake lines are a snap now.
That line foes from the tank, under the cab, to the frame rail, and end at a rubber line that hops over to the engine. After that rubber line, there should be another metal line that runs up to the carburetor, that is on the engine. When I find fuel, brake, or cooler lines that show metal fatigue, I replace them all. Better safe than....
I own that one. It kicks ass; however, my old-school KD Tools manual flaring tool from NAPA worked just fine. I just do a TON of lines, and have arthritis in my hands.
My humble 2 cents: I use an in-line flair tool. I got a very cheap one three vehicles ago and it still is working great. Three vehicles with full brake lines and no leaks. I like it because it keeps the die perpendicular to the hole, keeping everything centered. The other end keeps the line tightly gripped during the flair process. Doing it this way keeps the sides of the line free from getting all mangled like it usually does when I use the type that clamps onto the line. All other basics apply, such as no burrs, and I make sure the top is flat after I cut the line. I lubricate with brake fluid. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The original fuel line from the tank, goes down under the cab, then ends, there is a short rubber section that connects to the metal line that goes up to the fuel pump. I'd just remove the section that's bad, and replace it or repair it. But carefully inspect that rubber line where it connects underneath....and maybe replace it...you can buy a reproduction if you want http://www.classicparts.com/1954-59-Flexible-Fuel-Line/productinfo/23-458/#.WBEmusnRwVs
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