Hot Rods Experience with Zipps water pump riser setup?

Not sure whether or not I will use a Zipps water pump riser setup on my Gen 1 406 SBC. I see that the water pump recommended for use with the SBC riser is one designed for use on a six cylinder engine.
Does anyone have experience with this setup? Does the six cylinder water pump flow enough for this engine?
I know there are lots of other variables to cooling the engine, but it is just the riser and water pump setup I do not know enough about.
Any help will be appreciated.

 

They work.

 

Indeed they do.

 

They work great. All my 32s have them. Except the banger. Simple with a engine driven fan and never needed a electric fan. Not even in 100+ traffic.

 

Works great & looks cool as well


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Work great , I found out the trick to get all air out of system
( I drilled the riser Wright on top near pump & installed a air bleed & drilled a hole in thermostat 1/8 )
Is to take the Thermostat & housing off,
Fill block threw intake, let set about 10 mints ,then repeat as needed,
Install thermostat & housing ,
Top off Radator crack air bleed until anti-freeze pee's out , Tighten bleed screw
Start up , done !!!
I chased a over heating problem for a mouth until I did this,
Run's 180 , its a cheap $135 Aluminum Ebay Radator for 32 ,
motor is 11-5.1 Compression on street
I tried vacuum down way , did not work.

 

Had one on a hi-po 383. I cut all the extra mounting "ears" off of it (alternator, a/c mounts). It worked awesome. Never even a hint of overheating. Spendy, but totally worth it.

BTW, I used the cheap, $27, cast iron pump and just painted the pump silver. But, later I found out that Autozone sells an aluminum pump for $79.
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...s-4-1l-1bl-ohv/197227_754796_0/?checkfit=true

 

What makes the aluminum pump better than the iron pump?

 

On a cooling and cost aspect, nothing. But it would be less weight and you wouldn't need to paint it. I just thought it was interesting that it is even produced in aluminum. It also says "heavy duty" in the description??? Maybe that's just referring to the price?

 

use it. they work great.

 

They work like a champ. I had some minor overheat issues at first, bought a high price flowcooler pump, no change. Went back to the stock 6 cyl pump. Built a shroud and cannot get over 180 even in 100 deg stop and go traffic.

 

The Autozone pump that I purchased also had the disc mounted to the back of the impeller, much like the flow cooler model.

 

Same here and absolutely no problems if you use the bleeder and bypass hose as shown in instructions, and I also drilled holes in thermostat.

 

Quick question about using Zipps waterpump riser ..What pulley setup do you use ? ( Crank , w/pump etc..)
Short pump or long pump type ?? I know it uses a 6 cyl w/pump....but I'm ready to order pulleys , and most specify V8 short or long pump..

DOH !!!
Just went to Zips site and downloaded install instructions and it specifies the pulleys.
Thanks
Stan

 

So far I have used 6 Zip's riser's and the impeller is basically the same size a the sbc just the housing is different. HRP

 

Snow white pump is an alternative. I've not used either and have no affiliation with anyone but here are the instructions for both, bleeding is the key. Here is a HAMB link to valve

 

I'm having trouble finding a waterneck to work with the Zipps. Any Zipps Tipps?

 

use short water pump pulley combination ,,
medium pump combination or long water pump whatever fits your needs


They make nice aluminum thermostat housing , straight out the top ,45 & 90s ..
they swivel for $25-$30

 

Thanks, gents, for all the helpful replies. Much appreciated.
A follow up question...what size fan, and how many blades were you guys using on 350 c.I. and larger engines?
Thanks again!

 

As big as will fit, not hit anything, or go past the edges of the core.

Lots of blades.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^X2

 

Straight up aftermarket or Murray # 277689 (54-72 GMC & Chevy light trucks) thermostat housing.

I run this all steel fan from Summit, it's 17" and does a excellent job, HRP

 

What is the simplest way of installing the bypass hose when running a heater. My heater has a ball valve shutoff that is under the dash. Should say SBC/Zips.

 

bump

 

If you have a set up to shut off the water flow thru the heater in warmer weather, then you'd need to plumb in enough valves and hoses so that when you blocked off the flow of coolant thru the neater, it was free to bypass the heater and still flow enough thru a bypass to serve the purpose of a flow past the thermostat of some coolant when the thermostat was closed. Otherwise you mat get a steam pocket because the bypass built into a stock WP is eliminated with the Zip's Riser installed

 

Well , on my zips set up I just didn't want to run a hose over to the left head. So I ran the hose back to the intake heater fitting. So far no known issues. Have seen some where the water pump fitting was capped and no issues. Used the Dorman brand bleeder fitting on the pump housing.

 

Do they make something like this for SBF or is it SBC only?

 

Zips doesn't but Snow White does. HRP

 

Mine has been like that for close to 29 years. HRP

 

So can I run the hose off the 6 cyl pump, to a Tee, from the Tee run one hose to the intake manifold, and the second hose to under the dash to the shut off valve and then to the heater? Would I also have to slightly restrict the hose from the Tee to the manifold to the size of the bypass hole in the sbc block? The Tee would be a 5/8".