Hey any of you guys run the Summit 1102 or 1103 hyd cams with your 283? Ride is a 57 wagon, rebuilt 283, fresh 305 (601) heads thats bumped the CR to 10.3:1 with .020" shim head gaskets, Vette Dual plane intake and Rochester 4 GC carb,dual 2" exhaust PG trans and 3.36:1 rear. Car is a reliable driver and I'm looking for a cam that will give me a mild lope and not take away bottom end TQ so I figure either of these cams will give me that give or take... Both cams are ground with 112 lobe sep; one has 204/214 @ .050" with .420int/.442" exh lift the other has 214/225 @ 0.050" with 442int/.465" exh. OTOH...Lunati makes what I feel is an ideal stick, but is more thsn double the price. Specs are: 213/219 @ .050", Lift .454/.468, lift .454 int/ .468 exh, 112 lobe sep and an rpm range of 1000 - 5500 . Anyone run one of the cams is a 283, how did it sound and perform? Or can anyone recommend a better stick for my combo? Thanx.... Rat
I've got about 1,000 miles on my fresh 283. Its got HO 305 heads, flat top/4 valve relief pistons, about 9.8:1 comp.,manifolds and 2.5" exh. I ran an Erson RV15 I had lying around. I was very impressed with the power and ESPECIALLY the sound, it idles alot roughter than an RV cam should exaxtly what I wanted. Don't forget the smaller cubes will make the cam bigger and the descriptions as far as idle and rpm range are based on an average small block which is 350 cubic inches. Here are the specs.... .429" lift 214 dur @.050 111 lobe center Hope this helps.
I ran a 350hp/327 cam in a 283 with a 4 barrel and it sounded great. Awesome response. The summit cams you are looking at are in that ballpark from what I remember.
Thanx keep the info comin guys... GMB, that cam is very similar to the Summit 1102 with a little less lift. I only want a mild lope so you know its not stock - yours sounds like its quite lumpy? Whats trans /rear gears are you running? Anyone else? Rat
They both sounds pretty good for a street 283...I have a 350, with a stick in it with 228/234 @ .050, and it is still actually pretty civil...its choppy, but, it will idle @ 700/800 rpm, in your case the displacment should effectively make it act a bit more radical...I have 10:1 comp. 10 inch 3500 stall converter, and 3.54 gear, with a 29 inch tall tire. In my opinion my car is still quite streetable, and I drive it alot, and far, though for many folks the converter and cam might be a bit irksome...I think I would use the second of the two you listed...
Buddy ran the 1102 in a '63 Bel Air with a boneyard 305 4 bbl. running ram's horn manifolds and full duals backed by a 200-4r and a 3.08. Didn't have much lope except when it was cold but had decent power. It hauled the old '63 with 4 adults in it no problem and got pretty decent mileage doing it. HIs brother had the 1103 in an otherwise stock '64 Impala SS 327/250HP with a PG and 3.36's. It had a nice idle, not lumpy and pulled strong even with the Glide. Strong enough to surprise a few 80's T/A's and Camaros. I think the 1103 will give you what you're looking for, the idle would be "noticable" in a 283 but not rough. Have to say though the old L-79 327/350 HP cam sounds bad *** in a 283! Does better in a lighter car with a stick and some gear out back.
I don't know what the specs were but, a 097 Duntov is hard to beat for idle and torque in a 283. Anything more and you start giving up low end.
I got a Melling MTC-1 in a fresh 283 only it has double hump 64cc heads. the cam specks look almost identical to what you posted for the 420/442 lift cam. I have 1.5 rockers and the thing don't lope, it runs dead smoth but sounds terriffic and runs strong, it will idle at 600. Has an Edlebroc 4 bbl and performer manifold. Has a Mallory unilite w/ no vac advance. I like it. Frank
I ran the same GM 327-350 hp grind in one of my 283's as well. I had a set of 194 head's and around 10.1 comp with an edelbrock intake and tweaked rochester quad. There's not a lot of torque in these little mill's, but with the stick it felt like there was more there than there actually was. It really was a great performer for a 283. Not too much cam and still pulled nicely.
Mine was in a 64 Malibu with a P/G that originally had the six in. I had a blast driving it. That's an older "Straight" grind. A newer split grind with similar specs should really wake up a 283. Newer cams tend to give you a little more on the exhaust side.
Its a '63 C10, stock 3 on the tree, 4:11 rear, I just wanted something economical, a mild driver. The "lump" is perfect to me, just enough to sound like a hot rod. I was really afraid the "rv cam" was going to sound stock, but I allready had it so I said WTF. It's got a nice lope at idle, would probably be fine with an automatic. I don't have a tach in it yet, so I have no idea how high it pulls or where it idles . If I had to guess I think I've got it idling below 1,000 rpm which is probably why it sounds so good. Oh yea,I highly reccomend a 500cfm Edelbrock, works great. Brett
Bad *** as in lots of sound and no go. The .030/.030 cam was ground way too radical even for the 327 it was stock in. By the time it got into it's sweet spot the intake and porting had given out. I know there are those who swear by it but if you had dyno graphs and E.T. slips to back up whatever the claim it would be painfully apparent that it fell short of the 350 h.p. 327 cam that was available at the same time in factory engines. The .030/.030 had lots of supporters back then mainly because of the idle and the clatter of the solids at .030" lash. You could/can hear the lifters clatter with the valve covers on and the hood closed so if that equals "bad ***" then go for it. I always had a thing for the win light coming on first, but what do I know? Frank
The Lunati version of the famous "Duntov" cam. 1800-6200 Lunati p/n 20109 http://www.holley.com/20109.asp Pretty sure this is a copy of the "097" cam
I also used a Lunati Bracket Master II cam in another 283 i built. it was a hydraulic stick, but had a healthy lump and great power from 2500 up..Again, in a stick car. This was a few years back when they only had 4 Lunati Bracket Master's listed in Summit at the time, this was the second from the largest listed. I think it was something like 480 ish lift and 228 dur @50.. I wish i could find the cam card for that one....i can't remember exactly what the hell it was....
Great info guys, guess Im stuck b/w the 1102 and the 1103. I dont want a solid so that rules out the 30/30 not to mention that it would be no good with the PG and heavy car that it is. IMO a cam with 205/220 @ .050" spread along with my 10.3:1 CR and a 112 lobe sep, 4 BBL, ramshorns and duals should make for a nice efficient package for a daily driver. If the CR was lower ie stock, Id go with a smaller @.050" figure to so that it wont bleed off valuable cyl pressure although the 112 lobe helps somewhat. Building some TQ (hard to do with a short stroke, small bore combo) will help although it is hard to do with the 283 in such a heavy, trans limited car. Anyone alse care to comment....?? Rat Rat
I agree. Many years ago, my brother (against advice) put the '64-'69 "30-30" cam in a '62 283, and I think that a VW bug in good tune could have beat it up to about 40-50mph. If you need the rough, rolling idle that bad, just retard the distributor.
I'm in the parts round up process of a 307 build-up. Just picked up a set of torquer World Heads from a fellow HAMB'er. Check out this info below... I'm currently leaning towards the Crane Powermax. Also... anyone have any experience with Crane's "blue racer" line??? from; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45615&page=2 Re: Puttin' Perfume on a Pig...307 Tech?! <HR style="COLOR: #999999" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and ***le --><!-- message -->CAM-TANKEROUS THINKING FOR THE 307... Picking a cam for any performance engine can be one of the most important decisions you'll make regarding how well it performs and whether or not it does what you want it to do. Given the importance of that one vital component, I thought I'd reflect on the subject a bit here. First off, you must set an honest performance goal for your motor, and choose parts that will work together well to acheive that goal. My target for this hypothetical build is to ***emble a fully streetable 307 that can be driven daily by anyone, and I'd want it to make somwhere around 325-350 horsepower on pump gas. That's certainly not an unreasonable goal, and more power from a streetable engine of that displacement is certainly possible (who knows...I may well exceed my own expectations!), but I think it makes for a good starting point, and is something that can be done on a budget, yet still provide enough power to get a light car down the street or 1320 pretty quickly! (Tuning and parts swapping later can lead to even more performance, but for openers, I think I've set an obtainable objective!) Now, how are we gonna GET to that goal? For starters, I knew that I'd wante a hydraulic flat tappet cam, and even though this motor is just odd enough to justify having a cam custom ground specifically for it, I wanted to limit the choices to cams available off-t******lf to anyone. If nothing else, I think this approach reinforces the home-built, budget minded nature of the project, and it made shopping for a cam sort of enjoyable, too! Next, I thought through the specifics of this project...the engine's displacement, it's bore/stroke ratio, valve size, the selected induction system, header and exhaust design, the RPM range and my power figure goals. Then, I factored in the variables that will affect this engine...the fact that I want it to be reliable and potent, yet civil and streetable at the same time. Keeping all of that in mind, I ran through what I've learned from past builds... The first thing I've come to regard as a good rule of thumb, is that smaller displacement motors work best in real-world street applications if you limit the duration @ .050" valve lift to 224 degrees or less on the intake side. I know, lots of you may be running more than that in your street driven cars, but I've found that being a bit conservative in this area yields you a motor that will be equally as happy on a slow crawl through traffic as it will winding through the gears at the strip. (This is especially true if you plan to run a mild converter and moderate rear axle gearing as I do). Next up, you need to consider valve sizes and exhaust system design. It's fairly well known that I'm a strong advocate of dual pattern camshafts for the majority of street driven vehicles, and I stand by that theory 90% of the time. The exceptions come when valve sizes are reduced, and a free flowing exhaust system is incorporated. Dual pattern grinds help to make more power by compensating for the disparity of valve sizes (intake being bigger) and the presence of back pressure in vehicles equipped with mufflers and full exhaust systems. They provide a little extra lift and duration to the exhaust valve to aid in cylinder scavaging so that there is more room in the cylinder for a fresh air/fuel charge after the intake valve takes over. When running a smaller intake valve size, and/or when running open headers, the benefits of a dual pattern cam begin to diminish, and single pattern grinds become viable candidates once more. Given that the 307 runs the small 1.72" intake valves, I made myself open to the inclusion of at least ONE single pattern grind in my list of possible choices. The engine will be equipped with headers, and the exhaust system will consist of a straight-through muffler attatched to each collector with a short length of pipe in between...pretty free-flowing! So, with all of that in mind, I singled out the following cams as being contenders for this engine: CROWER COMPU-PRO Level 3 Lift: .462" Intake, .470" Exhaust Advertised Duration: 280 degrees intake, 286 degrees exhaust Duration @ .050": 220 degrees intake, 226 degrees exhaust, 112 degree lobe center CRANE POWERMAX # 113941 Lift: .454" Intake, .480" Exhaust Advertised Duration: 272 degrees intake, 284 degrees exhaust Duration @ .050": 216 degrees intake, 228 degrees exhaust, 112 degree lobe center SSI # 10310 (from PAW) Lift: .443" Intake, .465" Exhaust Advertised Duration: 280 degrees intake, 290 degrees exhaust Duration @.050": 214 degrees intake, 224 degrees exhaust, 112 degree lobe center ISKY 270 MEGA-CAM Lift: .465" Advertised Duration: 270 degrees Duration @ .050": 221 degrees As you can see, all four cams have duration @ .050" specs of 224 degrees or less on the intake side as I specified earlier. Any one of them would surely work well in this project, and they should give you the power you want and also deliver the driveability you're after. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
<LI cl***=feature>Advertised Duration IN/EX: 287/287 Duration @.050 IN/EX: 228/230 Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .394"/.400" Lobe Sep Angle / Intake Ctr Line: 110/106 Valve Lash IN/EX: .012"/.018" RPM Range: 1800-6200
TNot after a solid stick, but hat 097 cam is unusual compared to todays grinds in that the dur @ .050 is way higher than what lift it offers. Cmon 283 guys, lets hear more.... Rat
i have used the summit # 1102 many times , even in 283's and have always been happy with it. it has the same spec's as Edelbrock's Performer cam
I have the Comp Cams 260H in a 283 and it runs very nicely but has no lump in the idle at all. The machine shop convinced me that the 268H would be rough idling but I think it would work out fine and wish I had not listened to the shop guy. The 260H would go infront of a stock converter without any trans mods at all. Larry CB_Chief
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