Question: Can the body of a '36 5W coupe be removed with the fenders and running boards attached? What is the minimal amount of exterior that would need to be removed to lift the body (with a two post lift)? Here's the situation, I picked up a new 'ride' this weekend - '36 5W coupe. I want to remove the body, with the fenders attached, and freshen up the running gear. I gutted the interior over the weekend (it was rotted) and have confirmed there is no rust in the floors, cowl, truck, fenders, etc; so I think there is plenty of strength in the body structure. There is some rust repair needed around the roof opening, but that's it. My goal with this project is to get the running gear up to standards (juice brakes) and cleaned up, flathead running (it will turn over), and drop the body back on the frame. The paint (original) has so much character; I want to retain as much of that as possible including the body welting, etc. I've attached some photos to show just how solid this car is. Let me know if anyone has any ideas or thoughts on if what I'm trying to do is feasible.
I think you can leave the rear fenders, boards bolt to the frame so they must come off. .I think the front clip must be removed. Others may have a better answer. Never taken a 36 apart but many many 40's-think they are similar in many ways-share the same frame.
I agree with Scrounger. Take a peek under your car and you will see there are no bolts (well maybe one or two?) that hold the front fenders to the cowl. And the running boards will have none. Unbolt all the fender and inner fenders as a unit from the frame and take it off as an ***embly. Then take the running boards off. Then lift the body and rear fenders together.
Bet you could get it off; but I think you have to remove the boards and put some tie straps from the front bumper holes back to the windshield posts as the from only has like one bolt on each side to the body. But I think it would really be a ***** to get back on without a bunch of reliable helpers.
No , not practical body with rear fenders is as close as you are going to get Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So if I'm understanding correctly - running boards removed; front fenders,grill,apron off as an ***embly; rear fenders attached to the body. Anyone know of a good old school painter (in VA or NC) that can match and blend the old lacquer?
Yes , and be careful putting the body back on at the tail of the fenders as they slip over the outside of the frame Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for all the help. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If the car has never been apart and the doors close like they should I would avoid taking it off the frame,pull the nose off it leaving the grill and fenders bolted together and work your upgrades from there. Sounds like a solid car.
I have had the body off my 3 Window. The front, rear fenders and running boards are all bolted to the ch***is at some point.
What everybody said. Take the front clip off as an ***embly. Running boards off, bumpers off, rear fenders on. I jack the car up high, remove all the bolts body to frame. Go under the car with some 2x4 wood and begin to gently break the bond between the body and frame. Continue jacking the body and fit a 2x4 block in, Go around the body jacking and installing blocks, until you graduate to 4x4 blocks, then 4x4 with a 2x4 stacked. Go to your local lumber yard and buy two 4x6x 10' beams. Slip the beam under the body in the area where the rear axle would be. Use lag screws and fasten the body to the beam. Do the same in the front under the cowl. Now support the beams with barrels or tall jack stands, and slowly let the frame down to the floor. I use floor jacks and even an old skate board to scoot the frame out from under the car. Body lifts are too big, too fragile, and too heavy. I always let the frame down from under the body. I just did a 48 Ford 4 door sedan by myself at 69 years old.
don't forget the two bolts all the way in the back on the brackets the bumper irons bolt to , they can be hard to see and easy to miss
Sounds just about right. I've taken the body off my '36 coupe several times in the past during the build. Always work alone, so I made up a 4x4 about 18" long with a eye-bolt in the center, I slip this under the cowl with the eye-bolt through the vent opening, then I can lift the front of the body with an engine hoist. For the rear of the body, I made up a spreader bar that bolts through the rumble seat pivot holes, then I can use the same procedure. I too, always let the frame down and out from under the car. Works every time.
Getting the fenders, grille, and hood aligned is tough if you are working alone. If the door gaps and hood gaps are nice I would do the mechanical work body on.
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