I am buying a 53 Chevy that has been in storage for about 20 years from the original owners son. I am not a fan of single master cylinders and would like to upgrade to a dual mc. Is there one that bolts on and what proportioning valve should I use? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
if this is a stock car properly adjusted and new linings w/c and m/c in good order are ample for these cars. so for a lot less than the upgrades you can get a good function stock system Tom
I want to go original but I like the piece of mind of a fail safe. I have always ran a dual mc on every car I have ever built for safety. It's the one place I do not want to cut corners. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Dual master on these cars is not a simple bolt on. It's under the floor and the brake and or the clutch pedal mount on the master. So to do what you want you have to make some changes. The new original type masters are $150. The install for me would be all day with dinner on the ground. But they do have good brakes when the originals are right.
I only had one single master equipped car lose the brakes. A '65 Belair with a rotted out line. Of course the longest line on the car. If everything is okay, lines, wheel cylinders, hoses & master, you should be fine. But I did change that Belair over to a '70 dual master from junk yard parts.
What Studebaker 46 said! Most all the cool old cars we love came with single m/c's, I've been driving them all my life with no issues - but, I always have a working Emergency Brake (yes, that's what they used to be called), completely independent of the hydraulic system and it will get you stopped in a hurry if need be. The original system is simple, efficient, and reliable when maintained properly. If you want some interesting reading sometime, just search these forums for real-world problems guys are having with their dual m/c, or disc brake conversions. One more thought then I'm done - is there really any such thing as "fail-safe" in a hot rod, or custom, or nice old driver, or for that matter a brand new car?
You can remove the guts, and the cap from the rear of the original master cylinder. Extend the original rod to go through the master cylinder, and frame mount a dual cylinder behind the original. This will keep your original pedal which is mounted to your master cylinder. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app