can you install a floor mounted four speed transmission attached to a 235 six cylinder in a 54 Chevy truck completely ***embled? So motor bell housing and trans all slid in together? Looks like the stick shift top bump on the trans would hit the firewall.
Sure. Just take the front axle off and raise it in place. Or it may go in normally, but at a pretty steep angle.
I've done the axle trick, raising it from the bottom. Actually, raised the truck with a chain hoist from temporary overhead 4" X 8" joist, sitting atop two 4" X 4" 'studs', temporarily bracketed to Grandma's garage door entrance. After disconnecting the axle, rolled axle out, lifted truck 36" or so, rolled engine & ****** under, on a 'Piano Dolly'; lowered truck...then with a piece of angle iron, perched ******, floor jacked front of engine and connected rear mounts, then the front. Axle went back under, easy as pie. (er...that would be Grandma's Apple pie. She served it after we were through. And took down those 'Gosh-darned timbers'!)
granny 4 speed? I never tried, it doesn't seem like a wise thing to do. Unless maybe the cab is off the truck
Some of the above suggestions sound like a lot of extra work. I think that truck has a panel in the floor you can take out. If it does, ***uming a granny 4 speed, at least take the cover off the transmission. If it was mine I would take the transmission off the engine & after mounting the engine with bell housing & clutch on it , then add the transmission through the hole in the floor. There should be plenty of room. set the transmission on a jack & raise it up to align with the clutch disc & shove it forward.
I fully understand what your saying and I went out and stared and measured for a while and it seems to me even with the front axle off, the radiator metal in the front and the trans cross member don't leave room to get the. Motor jack up in place. What am I missing?
As I recall, there is a crossmember under the bellhousing that would foil attempts to install the engine/trans ***embly from the bottom up. Also in the way when trying to lower in place with front sheet metal in place. With the exception of the cab already having been removed from the ch***is, any alternative method that keeps the transmission attached while being installed will exceed, greatly, the labor required to unbolt the trans and reattaching it after the engine is in place. It is not "rocket surgery"......the main drawback is the weight of the 4 speed transmission. But that is why jacks were invented. Ray
I've got my doubts it would fit between the firewall and (riveted) crossmember. Working on a 5 speed for my 53 now. Engine hoist through the p***enger door made install a simple 1 man job. The 4 mounting bolts are relatively easy, making it worth the effort to divide the two, imho. -greg
I did this motor and ****** swap when I was 15 years old. It aint any different than any other swap. Pull front axle PLEASE do not do that. It is a bunch of work for nothing!! This post I can not figure out???
the cross member under the bell housing will not let put them in together you have to pull the trans off the bell. you can leave the bell on the engine
I'm doing an engine hoist thru the cab lowering to get the trans in place.lots of cussing and a hole in the garage wall, but no install yet. Tomorrow I plan to swap from chains that slip to tow straps and see if I can control it's decent. Have not gotten far enough in to even start to jockey it around to slide in further. What a pain in the ***
how about a couple eyebolts where the top cover bolts on? I use a floor jack. I made a few gizmos that let me support a transmission securely.
Try jacking the *** end up really high, it works on Corvette, it gives the motor a straight shot in and then lower the *** end. I have done a lot this way, makes the angle of attack better. Frank
I had a 400 turbo behind a 410 small block. It also works on a 54 Corvette with a 235 and iron powerglide.
The Jalopy Journal
