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Technical Door handle help '34 Ford 5 window coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by challengerman, Nov 9, 2016.

  1. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    Hello HAMBERS, been a long time since I've been on here. It may seem silly, but I can't seem to figure out how the outside handles are removed from the doors. Anyone with experience out there? HELP please.
     
  2. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member

    Two screws on the handle base need removed, then it should come out. The square shank that goes into the latch can get tight, so may take some wiggling or penetrating oil to get it to pull free.
     
    Dave Mc likes this.
  3. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    Thanks Chris, it's weird, absolutely stuck. I guess I'll let it soak in some penetrating oil for a couple of days. I was just curious if the there was some release trick like a model A. I have very little experience with '30s cars.
     
  4. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member

    No problem...I believe the hole the square shank on the handle goes into is open ended...so if the door panel is off, you may be able to tap it from the backside.
     
  5. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    Hi Chris, back at it. Is an auxiliary lock the problem? The other door comes apart like normal. Oct 2016 door handle.JPG Oct 2016 door lock.JPG Oct 2016 door handle.JPG Oct 2016 door lock.JPG
     
  6. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Is the inside door panel off? Show us a picture of the inside of the latch if it is. Looks like the latch is missing screws on the jam side of the door.
     
  7. Hot Rod Jerry
    Joined: Oct 23, 2011
    Posts: 205

    Hot Rod Jerry
    Member

    Something tells me you need to turn it a quarter turn then pull. Sorry if this is wrong.
     
    cad-lasalle, 19Eddy30 and 36-3window like this.
  8. i think you are correct
     
  9. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Mine pull straight out, the square hole for the shaft has a very thin spring steel washer with tabs (like a push nut) to keep it from rattling. Sometimes they can be dug into the shaft pretty good. Best to drive it out from the inside like Chris said above.
     
  10. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 6,588

    verde742
    Member

    AS I recall you have to turn and pull....
     
  11. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,915

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    X2
     
  12. timwhit
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,185

    timwhit
    Member

    I've removed a bunch of those and don't recall ever having to turn and pull. It's easy to believe it's stuck in the lock body. Likely been in there for a while.
     
  13. Deuce Lover
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,207

    Deuce Lover
    Member

    If its that stuck you might have to take the door panel off and tap the shank end to coax it out.It then pulls straight out.35 and later are trickier to get out.
     
  14. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    On the right is the spring steel washers, the tabs I mentioned you can see in the center. The ones on the left are actually turned out of delrin as a replacement for those worn ones, fit snug, turn smooth, and keep handle from drooping. The handles pull out straight. 20150419_174421.jpeg 20150409_164902.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2016
    timwhit likes this.
  15. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    Hi, yes the interior trim panel is off. I wanted to remove the lock mechanism to make some sheet metal repair behind it. Yes, the screws are out of the escutcheon as well as the lock plate. The handle shaft seems "locked" on to the lock plate. I really was hoping to take this apart without damaging anything. As I mentioned, the other side pops apart no problem. Drive it out??
     
  16. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    You can see in my pic above the square shaft goes straight through, also the small square shaft for the lock on the left latch does the same. I would use a punch and drive it out, but with the latch still screwed to the door so it does not hit the inside of the door skin. Did you loosen the lock set screw in the hole on the door jam? That is all that holds the key lock in.
     
    timwhit likes this.
  17. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    I want thank everyone for helping with this. I put all the screws back in but removed the lock cylinder which seems to have nothing to do with the door handle being stuck. Here's what I observed today; the door handle shaft does move back and forth in the square lock hole a little, BUT the outside escutcheon does not move/ come off. I'm wondering why that would be? Any ideas?
     
  18. MAD 034
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 775

    MAD 034
    Member
    from Washington

    Stuck to the paint? A little nudge with a br*** drift and a hammer on the square shaft inside the door may help.
     
  19. crf500
    Joined: Dec 1, 2007
    Posts: 195

    crf500
    Member

    I have seen the the little ears on the spring steel washers. As shown above, get sticky if they have not been out for a while and are rusty at all. Soak it down, then get out the trusty ol hammer and punch. Try tapping carefully from the inside out. good luck
     
    Johnboy34 likes this.
  20. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    The handle should come off just like the other side and the lock cylinder, The notches on the handle shaft must be hung up on the little tabs in the center of the spring steel washer I've mentioned before, possibly rusted and broken off. Have someone wiggle it while you tap it out. The escutcheon is swedged to the shaft. Doubt it's stuck to the paint cause it would come off and leave the rubber pad there. The notches on the shaft look like this picture, I don't actually think the notches are in the square hole or the shaft would stick out inside the door panel.
    20161110_165114.jpeg
     
  21. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    Hi, I've got to get so
    Hi, I've got to get me some "hybrid" stickers to go with my "Mr.Horsepower" decals. OK, going to whack it with a drift. I'm just hoping to not have to repair the outer skin as well.
     
  22. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    "I've got to get me some "hybrid" stickers to go with my "Mr.Horsepower" decals."
    o_O:confused::confused:

    After you get the handle off I would suggest you definitely remove the latch and check it over real good, maybe someone else has " fixed it " sometime before. ;)
     
  23. challengerman
    Joined: Apr 13, 2006
    Posts: 27

    challengerman
    Member

    So I smote it mit der hammer and it came right out - lost a patch of paint tho'. Thanks everyone.
     
  24. Outlaw34Chev
    Joined: Mar 26, 2021
    Posts: 2

    Outlaw34Chev

    Johnboy34- Did you make those delrin inserts? My spring steel washers are trashed causing the door handle to wobble and not work. Are there any replacements out there other than making? I dont have a lathe in order to turn those. I know this is replying to a years old post. Thanks for any help.
     
    Johnboy34 likes this.
  25. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,658

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Yes,I made them. I don't have a lath either, I used the drill press.
    1/2 inch delrin rod
    Drilled 5/16 hole in the center, then filed it square to fit sng on the handle shaft.
    Used a carriage bolt & washer-nut to hold it.
    Put threaded part of bolt in the chuck.
    Used different saw blades & files to cut the outside.
    1/16" - 1/32" - 1/8"
    Sneak up to the outside ends so they fit snug but not tight in the latch. (both sides)
    Mine still work fine, hopefully that helps.
    The measurements are off memory, I'll double check later out in the shop.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  26. Outlaw34Chev
    Joined: Mar 26, 2021
    Posts: 2

    Outlaw34Chev

    Thank you. Makes sense and will give that process a try.
    With the old clips the handle wobbled a little but would allow the “striker” or the piece that rotates pushing on bar to open is called. With the slop, it would slide past bar and not open door.
     

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