Been told my T does not fit in with the HAMB, so sorry I cant really post more about the build. It does steer extremely well and there is zero 'slack' at the wheel. Had a steering box on it many years ago and got fed up with the 'experience'. There are lots of 'different' things on my car and making them was both a pleasure and in my opinion, Hot Rodding at the basic level. Now Margarittas; Not warm enough in the UK to have them. Hot chocolate is more the mark.
A fellow I know is currently building a channeled 1930 coupe with Hemi and VW bus box. Dropped axle with hairpins. Clean and simple.
I'm enjoying all discussions about T's in general. I do have my steering sorted out and it will look really "era typical". With all the things going on I've gotten a bit inspired this weekend and actually cleaned the shop. New experience to walk through here and not break my neck. Last night I spent a couple of hours fitting and tacking boxing plates. The one thing I will mention, since this thread is now about all things T, is that most T frames being made of rect. tubing just don't look quite right to me. The 1 1/2" ones are a bit anemic and the 2" ones are too chubby. I press braked some 10ga. tapered channel with 1 3/4" legs, (same as a Model "A" frame), and it looks just right to me. I'll have pics up soon. The perceived "beef" of the front rails along with square inner edge makes a huge difference in the frames appearance. I am using 2x3 .120 under the car as you will only see 1" of the lower edge with a 2" channel. The .120 rect. tubing has a .256 radius OD roll which I matched on the tapered pieces using a gooseneck die that gives the same radius. The more common .125 tubing that is available to me has a somewhat larger .375 radius which is once again, too chubby looking. (Would make my frame look like it was built by the Pillsbury Dough Boy). The transition to the rect. tubing is plotted to take place on the front edge of my trans mount which allows me to bury the 1/4" difference in the crossmember. I am folding a transition into that part using a "46-"48 style trans mount to locate my trans tail and keep the torque tube in line. As I'm using a banjo, my center crossmember needs to not only handle the trans load but locate the rear end as well. I have made up some parts that are similar to the deuce style that Vern Tardel makes for a Model "A". The drive train is set up where nothing is lower than the frame rails in keeping with my roadworthy theme. This crossmember incorporates a '60 Chevy pickup MC to give me both brakes and clutch functions and is still plenty away from my steering box. As my front legs of the frame taper from 3" at the front crossmember to 4" at the firewall, once again following Model "A" proportions, the look is pretty close to a reworked "A" frame which used to be the frame of choice under most roadsters and is substantially stronger and dead on in tolerance. I have to decide if I want to punch the stock holes in the front side rails as I remember seeing a lot of cars that never bothered to fill them, (and a lot that did). I did press the typical runningboard bracket bumps into the siderails just 'cause they look cool. I'm putting this stuff up here because I would like you opinions on some of this. I'm pretty outside the box on this chassis so post away. Not that I'm going to listen, but I do get good constructive criticism on here....
Koz, how about a couple pics? I am using boxed and shortened Model A rails under mine, but I am a ways away from starting on my chassis yet. If I do end up with the Hilborns, I am really thinking about doing a Chuck Finders style coil spring rear with lift bars. Either way, I have a '57 Ford 9" I am using.
I actually advertised around for a pair of decent rails to no avail before I bent up my own. When I don't need 'Em I'm giving them away. As I mentioned, I'll get pics up soon. I have a '34 Pickup in the shop that I'm using that type of rear suspension on now. I really want this car to be one of those that you walk up to and it's so understated it takes you 10 min. to realize how much thought went into it. Most of the cool stuff is underneath or inside, hidden from view. If nobody minds, I'll just keep posting progress on this thread instead of a new build thread. I'm hoping on a serious push next weekend on the frame. I already have the entire front and rear suspension finished, brakes, motor, trans and rear rebuilt and the chassis at perhaps 50%. Body is not even 1%, (don't really mind because that's the fun stuff!), and I still haven't picked up the tires. Good start however as all the hard stuff is done. One good weekend will put the frame on the rotisserie for primer. Hoping for a good production week in the shop.
Kos, I for one am looking forward to you using this thread for your build thread. Title is easy to notice. I think you mentioned back that you are going to set up your pedals like the Ivo car. Nice look but are even farther back than mine, and I have to work mine with my heels. Not a problem, just takes a little getting used to. Thought Tom was even shorter than me but in the photo below we look about the same height. Five foot nine on a good day. Once while describing my roadster to Grabowski on the phone and telling him it had the same body as his he blurted out " HOW TALL ARE YOU" I told him 5'9" he in the same voice said "I KNEW IT, YOU COULDN'T DRIVE IT BEING MUCH TALLER". I think Norm was about the same height. I think he said that was part of the reason he sold it. Just not comfortable to drive. Just thought I would put that out for you to consider.
I'm a tad over 5'10 but I've always been able to fit in some small roadsters. I frequently use my wifes Miata as a "template" for interior positioning of steering/pedals etc. Despite being very small and extremely low, it is very comfortable to drive. Some of you might remember my old roadster--- This car was actually the same size as a typical bucket as still very comfortable for me to drive. I frequently ran the 165 miles or so to Wildwood and to South Carolina and near Canada several times. It was equally comfortable with the aluminum roof on. I drove the wheels off this thing and as usual, once it was on the road it never really got finished..... The fellow who owns it now does the same, as did the guy who owned it before him. Seating position along with steering and pedals is everything. The most important thing that I find critical is line of sight. If you can't see out of the car both front and rear and actually use the side mirrors it will not be comfy. Here's a pic in Wildwood at the Fall run with the roof on and you can see how small it is compared to Jack and Phils roadsters.
I might add, my new car has a somewhat unique body and is only channeled 2" with a 4" sweep Z in the front frame legs to get seating position and mechanicals at the right place.
Since this has become my "go to" T thread and most of the T guys on here are reading this..... I have acquired an early T roadster cowl. I need to order front quarters for my body and I'm not sure if this is a pre '22 cowl or the '23-'25 flavor, (if there is a difference). Anybody have a guess from these pics? Got this from gastrk on here. Good guy to deal with. I'd like to order some quarters from Howell but I could just whack a pair out to fit as well.
Another Pre 23 or 15-22 hanging on my wall. You can't see with the HAMB calendar hanging on it but I'm told it is probably a 19-22 because it has a notch in the firewall mount. Same as my roadster in my Avatar. But yes yours like Marty said is a 23-25. Wider and higher with not as much ski slope drop. Some like them because of more foot room. I'm willing to give up that room for the look of the more radical slope of the earlier cowl.
Thanks guys! I knew one of you would know. I'm giving Howells a shout now to see if I can get the front cowl panels which is the last thing I need for the body. Wanted to make sure I ordered the right panels. I'm just going to make a firewall and dash for it. Gotta' mention, Now that I see the earlier cowl and notice the slight shape difference I know I have the right one for me. I prefer the later style personally.
The earlier firewall is shorter and the cowl top slopes down at a steeper angle when its all assembled. and yes, you have a '23/'25. If you are trying to buy from Howells, try to get it through a vendor, I have heard Howells is not great on customer service.
Personally, I haven't had any problems with them. I have heard the horror stories though. I called today and they have them in stock so I should be OK. Wanted to mention George, I haven't been out to ship so that canister is still here. I'll be shipping some stuff in the next couple days so it will be on the way. While I'm at it do you need the bypass valve as well?
There's a good thread on here about using an F1 box with a 55-67 VW bus steering box mounting bracket. Leaves a really factory look and allows a lot of versatility when mounting. I though this was really trick. LINK
Gentlemen..... Have a ton of pics but Photobucket is screwing me around. I'm trying to post some updates. Does anyone know how to post pics directly from my computer? As a quickie here. The car has, like they always do, gone through just a bit of rethinking as I've progressed. I'm pretty busy on customer work so I only get to work on it late night. I ended up finding a nice Model "A" chassis so I rethought the frame using the reworked "A" rails. With the exception of the wheels/tires, which I need to pick up, the car is a roller. It will get blown apart this week for paint. All the suspension, steering, pedals and drivetrain fit like a glove and work great. Exhaust is all welded up and ready for wrap, as required by Pa. I'm using a pair of sprint style headers with 3 1/2" all the way back sort of like the red one in the Shifters club. Mine end just past the rearend as is required by Pa. law. I have 12" glasspacs in the tubes to keep things to a dull roar. Be on finish bodywork right after the chassis is reassembled. The car "sits" just right! Everything about this one is perfect in my eyes. This is because I've done everything at least twice...... Biggest change is I reworked a set of '60 Buick front backing plates to fit the Ford spindles by removing the center and replacing with some 10ga. P&O and milling the Ford bore and bolt holes in. Looks factory. I always loved the way Cottons T's looked with the finned drums. That being done, I decided to do the same on the '55 Chevy rear so I have a pair of loaded backers coming, (thanks Kato Kings!,). I will attempt the same thing on the rear including the 45 fin drums. Should look decent with the late '50's Chevy wheels I'm using. Pics up as soon as I find out how to post them.
The Jalopy Journal
