Just installed a 1/0 AWG battery ground cable, my opinion, even if ya don't really "need" 1/0, there's still a BIG difference in cranking compared with the drugstore cables.
Use number 2 cable. Most welding shops will have red and black cable. Some will stock blue and yellow . The different colors are for multi welder jobs so it easier to tell whose cables are who's.
Made up a battery box. just have to put the all thread on, ready to go. Goung to make a hatch to get to it.
I just got 30' of red and 30' of black 2 AWG US made welding cables for $72 delivered on amazon. From TEMCo. $1.20 a foot delivered. See what your local welding supply has for price.
Just beware if the price is really, really good it may not be pure copper wire but "CCA"; aka copper clad aluminum wire. The good stuff isn't necessarily cheap but even for long runs it shouldn't break the bank.
They still make that stuff? Terminated right it will work fine (but it has to BE RIGHT; crimp only, no solder), but you'll need to bump the size up by two sizes to get the same ampacity as copper.
Our overseas suppliers I bet. These extra heavy cables are worth it, especially with high compression engines, or prone to heat soak engine starters (headers will do this), I also found with 17° initial timing on a Y block, even with low stock compression it was pushing it. Another trick favored by the cheap parts folks is to use extra thick outside insulation, so the cable looks hefty diameter from the outside, but on the inside it's just thin gauge. Maybe it's my imagination but the new 1/0 cable sure seems to start the engine quicker. Corroded cables too will often soak up and divert the juice right at that instant during engine start when it is most needed for ignition to make for quick easy starts. Too small cables are probably the same deal.
You can buy pre-made red and black trunk mounted battery cables from a 20-25 year old BMW 3 series [and 7 series] I paid $30 for my last set from our local U-pull [in NZ]
been using welding cable for battery cables ( battery in trunk) since 1966, (still the same cable), never a problem .
picking up the cable today 46.00 cdn for 2 pcs 9 feet. . What do you think about the hammer on ends? Hammer on or crimped Does soldering make it weaker? I will try crimping think my buddy has a large crimper.
Crimping is the way to go if it's done correctly, tons of pressure. Solder melts at around 360F. Maybe brazing would work, but that's not the same thing.
I had a local speed shop make up mine... while I waited. They used #2 welding cable with eyelets at each and plus shrink sleeve over the bottom of the eyelet to the cable jacket. $40 but they came out great. Check marine places for cables. Most outdrives use them and they come in many gauges and lengths. I was looking for some on eBay and found tons of them. The price was better than what I spent.
What or where does the 1/0 and 2/0 mean or fit on the gauge sizes? I get that 4 gauge is larger than 6 gauge and so on.
Just an easier way of saying the same thing...1/0 is 0, 2/0 is 00, etc. 2/0 I've heard said as "2 aught" or "double aught".
I've been dealing with these guys - http://www.gaugewireandcable.com He (Mike Nediano) sells on eBay and prices seem real good, quality is excellent. Can call or even text messages.
A great number of middle-aged BMW's, sold around the world, have the battery located in the trunk, from the factory, just in case not everyone was aware.
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