I started a tread earlier about my 6 volt positive ground 55 ford the trouble I have with a pertronix ignition switch over from points to eletronic igntion. The support guy said find my receipt, we'll test your old unit and replace it with a new unit. Well I got my receipt and they shipped me out a new unit btw I don't have the loadamatic dizzy but the later model.. This unit fits this dizzy, according to the part number on my dizzy I did all my homework on their web site and made sure my part number was correct for my car. I . So I get the new unit (as they said it would be) installed it. It wan't as bad as I thought it would be. I paid someone to install the last unit at 65 dollars an hour. But, I still have the same problem, spark to coil no spark from coil. I even installed one of the lines directly into the ignition wire that runs to the coil. The ground wire or positive wire to the positive side of my battery again a 6 volt positive grd car, making sure I have a solid ground for the unit. again went out and purchase a new coil. Still no spark, I'm becoming a coil warehouse. Help!
Have to dig a little but Pertronix has a troubleshooting page on their website somewhere. Basically involves hooking up direct temporarily and manually waving the magnet in front of the module. The pertronix is an electronic switch, pretty much just work, or not. The gap should be .030" but they seem pretty tolerant.
does this unit use a condenser on the dist.(there is nor dizzy on an auto)with points the spark starts at the dist
What Happen to the orignall Dist. did you have any problems with That.?? Just wondering Just my 3.5 cents or when the Cows Come Home.!
Can also test the coil directly for spark. The odds of two or three defective coils in a row is nil, but these days who knows.
After two Petronix units and two coils, I'm thinking the problem is not in either one. Has the wiring been traced and VERIFIED as being good ?
When I bought the car the 57 or later dist. was already in there. I didn't know the difference till I bought a new cap.
The car was running real good before I put the pertronix in. No problems. Everyone I've talked and told I was still running points they said right away you need to go electronics.
Well sheeeit, that settles it then. Buy a 2017 ****wagon, it has all sorts of electronics. No generator, no points, no carburetor, power steering, power brakes + anti-lock ,air bags, and blue teeth a-daptor and a navigation system.
A few things I have ran into. The pertronix should have came with a little ring that goes over the lobes that open and closes the points. Make sure you have it, I know people who got shorted this part, and it caused all sorts of grief. I have also had to epoxy the ring down because it kept popping off because the lobes are worn. Other basic stuff to look for, red lead gets full voltage supply (so before a resistor if equipped), black lead on the negative terminal of the coil, good crimps on the leads, verify clearance between the module and the ring if spec is provided. Verify source power from the ignition switch as being present. A ****py ignition switch or messed up wire is enough to side derail your project. Also verify if there is some sort of resistor in the circuit, (resistor wire or ballast type) bi-p*** if equipped. If there is still an issue past that point put the points back in and see if she fires off. I have seen the lobe sensing style pertronix be a real P.I.A, these actually use the distributor lobe instead of a magnetic ring, and why I prefer to use only the ring style. If the coil is suspect you can use a multimeter and perform a resistance check on the coil. Good luck -Sean
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