$800 as you see it. Standard cancer in lower sections but subframe is solid. Need p*** door, bed is solid and in good shape. Lots of parts came with it. 400 miles round trip to pick it up - not bad. It now sits in my backyard behind the tool shed, for the time being. Plans call for dropping in this motor....................... Now, I got 2-1/2 'T' frames with it, which are of basically no use too me. So, considering cost and work involved, I'm considering using this for a ch***is setup (Don't hate!)............................. $3300 from Speedway. It just makes economic sense! I plan to build it in a track T/lakes style. Of course, everything's in the planning stages right now. The only 'for sure' part is the motor. I've always wanted to build a track T with a turbo'd 2.3. I have the motor ready to go. I'm an old hat at hot rodding but new to the Ol' Skool stuff. Most of my past projects have been muscle cars. Therefore, I'm gonna have a ton of very stupid questions in the coming months. Please be gentle! My welding skills are abysmal at best, but in January I'm signing up for a welding cl*** at the local JC. Supposed to be pretty good. Then I'll buy an oxy/acetylene setup eventually followed by a MIG. Here's some of the junk that came with it. A full set of Model A? wires................. A couple of these.................... A bunch of those..................... Oil pan.................... Stock fuel tank.................. Complete column and wheel.................. The backs of some kinda bomber seats......................... A bunch of semi-trashed fenders, headlight buckets, lots of 'T' wheels with rotted out spokes and various other basura parts. Hey, a little bit of bondo and some baling wire and it'll be on the road in a week!
Ya could probably sell all that other junk to put a down payment on the speedway ch***is. Good score!
I did. It seems they only deal with Model A ch***is, unless I missed something. I'm sure there's other options out there, as well. I'm new at this guys. Please keep all suggestions, comments, ridicule, whatever coming this direction. I'm here to learn! CharlieChops1940 - Your avatar is an inspiration!
The 27 works on the Model A ch***is. Here's a frame I just shipped to Texas for a 27 coupe.... (modified version of the A ch***is we do)
If you're on a tight budget,find a nice original Model A frame and go from there. Dropped axle,drum brakes.traditional hot rodding ! (don't go down the cheap T-bucket road)
Nice score man!! It's a lot better than the pile of parts and rust I'm trying to form back into a 27 rpu! Keep us posted as to what you do with it!!
That's a great buy you got there. The wire wheels are 16" 35 Ford factory wheels. Wheels measure about 3/4" over the correct nominal size when measured lip to lip, the true measurement is taken at the curl where the tire bead seats. Those "bomber" seat backs are stock old car seat backs from the 'teens-20s. In case you decide to use the original column and wheel, don't forget the little round box under the steering wheel IS the steering box and should be disabled before use hooked up to a conventional steering box at the end of the steering shaft.
Deuce ch***is! 26-27 'T's look very tasty on deuce rails. this guy doesn't build them for t's but give him a call. he does nice work. might be able to help or give some suggestions if you go that route. http://www.blackboardhr.com/ also, i plan on building a 2.3t for a roadster i'm going to build someday. i'm going to like this build. those wires are not 'A'. looks like 33-34 or 35. and the rest of that stuff your not really going to use. sell/swap/trade it for what your going to need.
Good score. I just dragged my rusty hulk inside for the winter. I second the Model A frame ( because that's what I'm using.) Have fun and keep us posted with your progress.
Thanks for the info and links! I'm thinking of channeling it, or not. Thoughts? Also, there's a local guy selling a Model A frame, cleaned and seperated (I guess seperated from the body) for $250. No pics. Is that the going price? Also, I don't really want the pickup bed. I'd prefer to trade for a turtle deck. Is that a fair trade? The bed is solid and fairly straight, including the tailgate. Keep it comin'!
Turtle decks are a lot harder to come by, as I understand it anyway. Decklids are scarce too, although they repop tho$e. As far as channeling, unless you are four feet tall, I would say no.
If you do go the Speedway Motors route keep in mind they do have a "buggy sprung" option on the rear.Would go a long ways toward making it look more traditional.I'm building a '27 RPU on "A" rails myself.
Can't say without knowing condition,but since Posies wants $310 and So-Cal wants almost $400 just for an original style "A" rear crossmember it might be worth checking out.Good luck with the build and remember,you can't go wrong if you keep it traditional.As to your comment about stupid questions,that would be the one you don't ask.I'd say theres probably few here that would qualify as "master builders".The rest of us,like you,are here to learn.
Gotta ask.What is that rear axle from that's split thru the pinion centerline?Theres a ****** just to the left of it.New to this hotrod stuff myself and never seen one like that.
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