HAVE A STOCK 50, WHAT IS THE MAXIMUM I CAN LOWER THE REAR WITHOUT HITTING THE FLOOR OR END UP WITH DRIVE SHAFT ANGLE ISSUES OR ANY OTHER UNFORSEEN ISSUES ?
Depends on the condition of your existing leaf springs but I think you could probably get away with a 4 inch lowering block at most
It all depends, there are may variables. My old shoebox would hit would hit with just 2" blocks, although, the drive train wasn't stock. Since you're stock, I would start would a 2" block to be safe. Old leaf springs do funny things when you start changing the arch of them.
I had really saggy springs and 4" blocks for a long time. I would get pretty bad axle wrap though. Switched with 4" drop springs and 2" blocks now and it actually raised the rear a bit. Added the rear sway bar And it rides way better now! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used 3" blocks under my '51 (avatar). It rides good and nothing hits, no driveline problems. Biggest problem is with 205r15 radials, I have to either deflate the tire or disconnect the shock (stock shocks) to get the rear tires off. Still running a stock rear end.
My '51 Club coupe had 3" blocks on the rear but the old springs are pretty flat. I cut them down to 1 1/2" and it is much better. Driveshaft would bump now and then before but not anymore. I have Aerostar front springs which dropped it 2 1/2". Now I can see over the hood and steering wheel! Car sits pretty level. I have a low miles '51 4dr that's stock and it sits 3 inches higher than the coupe. I also tow my TrailorBoat camper behind it so sometimes I flip the rear shackles over ('51 only, not '49-'50) if on a real long trip and heavily loaded.