Hey guys....I'm working on plumbing my 32 pickup project currently. The hydraulic clutch is all I have left. I'm running a SBC engine with an older style NV3500 transmission with the external slave cylinder. I can run a line from the Wilwood master to a factory slave but snaking behind the starter and so forth seems like a hassle. Is it possible to use one of the generic hydraulic throwout bearing kits from Speedway or RAM on the earlier NV3500's to ditch the fork assembly? I was thinking if so I could install it and just drill an access hole in the driver side of the bellhousing to actuate it instead of having to run lines all the way to the passenger side and contend with the starter. Then I can just weld a patch into the factory flywheel cover to fill the hole on that side. Here's a link to the type of setup I'm thinking of http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/how-to-install-a-hydraulic-throwout-bearing/28841 Has anyone done this on the older NV3500? Does it offer smoother performance? Any downside to drilling a small access hole for the hoses in the driver side of the housing?
Tilton makes one that might work. I have a Tilton 6000 series on a SBC with a t5. Car's not running yet, but it's supposed to be a good unit. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Other than some plumbing, which ought to be relatively easy, you have a proven system with a slave cylinder and a mechanical throw out arm that will work great...and you want to trade out for a system that is iffy at best.? All the guys I know that went to aftermarket hyd. throw outs ended up going back to mechanical arms. Maybe you will get lucky....
What were their reasons for going back? The newer version of the NV3500 came with a hydraulic throwout so I'd think it's superior to the mechanical arm.
I've had great experience with hydraulic throw out bearings. They basically take up the same amount of space as the standard bearing. The clutch doesn't care whether it's actuated by a rod and lever or inside the bearing. For simplicity sake, you just route the lines, bleed it, and get on down the road. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Its not. My every day is a 97 Chevy pickup with a NV. I am on my 3rd clutch. Both died because the hydraulic throw out seal leaked fluid over the flywheel and clutch. To change it out you need to drop the transmission. The external can be unbolted and changed in 15 minutes.
I had both styles, hydraulic is a pain to bleed, but pretty reliable after that. Factory they come with this crappy plastic line that's press fitted in, russell makes a fitting that works with both the master and slave so you can get a nicer looking and more manageable braided line in
I was looking at the unit offered by RAM. They apparently offer teflon seals which I'm sure are less likely to leak than a stock setup and they are designed with -3 or -4 AN fittings so you can avoid the press fittings. I'm not opposed to using the factory slave setup but I don't like the way it has to snake between the block and starter....I feel like heat has to be an issue. Does anyone see a problem with drilling 2 small access holes through the driver side of the bellhousing just big enough to snake the two braided lines through?
I like the RAM unit. I say yes, drill holes, but add rubber grommets to prevent chafing. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have seen quite a few hyd. t/o bearing fail. I got to help a guy fix one during a rod run a few years back. Not fun even with a lift and full shop at our disposal. He had some real choice words the whole time! I would stick to the tried and true factory setup. That is what my GMC is getting.
Isnt the nv3500 a big sized truck tranny. They would take up a lot of room in a 32. I have one in my 1997 Dodge, and it takes up some room. Tony
I'm running a speedway hyd throw out bearing in my 32 with a Muncie and it works really well for me. It is much easier and smoother, I did this because my dad has a bad knee and it makes it better for him to drive. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm running an external Speedway slave on my Chevy truck type bell housing and a Wilwood master, an Afco hose ties it together. The hose can be routed creatively to get around things as long as you keep it lower than the clutch master.
you may be looking at the NV4500 in your truck, which is much larger. see here for NV3500 in between '40 X member and I will be using the stock slave cylinder with the Russell adapters
Hey thanks for all of the replies. I ended up sticking with the stock external slave setup. I picked up a new one from an 88 C1500 at the local AutoZone and bolted it in. Best part is the port for the line is threaded, not the push in style.
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