Technical TIG welder question

Ok, I'm going to jump in and get one (tired of using friends), I'm looking for opinions on what machine to look for. I've used the search function here and I'm headed over to the garage journal. I have a little time under my belt (very little) and I'm going to learn while I practice. I'm looking for info a good rock solid machine that can do aluminum, steel and stainless without any funky mods. I'm not looking for a war on which machine brand is better. This is going to be a home machine with light use 110 or 220 is fine and single phase.

An older machine is fine as long as I can get parts for it, I've used a Miller and Lincoln at work (don't know the models). I'm just starting my research and I've been looking at the Miller Dynasty, but I'm always leery of digital machines. So fire away......here's just a few I've seen.

Lincoln square wave
Lincoln precision wave
Miller syncho wave
Miller econotig
Miller dynasty
Miller diversion

 

I've only used a cheaper small brand, but it has worked great for everything I could try with it. So, don't limit the search to the big names. But I would require a test drive with the salesman on all materials you will be welding.

 

First of all, I would get a machine with the new inverter technology and both AC and DC capabilities since Al needs AC and steel and stainless need DC.
The inverter technology allows you to use it on a 220 volt circuit of reasonable amperage rating, while the old transformer rigs like my Lincoln Ideal Arc 200 requires a 100 amp service juist to the machine.
Get a water cooled torch and you can rig up a cooling system that works just fine using some rubber hose a submersible aquarium pump and a 5 gallon bucket. A foot pedal control is a big help also.

 

Lincoln 175 is a good machine I've had mine for 20 years and it's done everything I have asked it to do


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I have a Lincoln Tig 300-300, bought it new in '76, and a Miller Gold Star from the 70's also. I'm like you, and also leery of digital equipment, as repairs can be costly. These big, older machines can be had for a song, as a lot of guys want more functions. If you are going to weld thick aluminum, they require a 100 amp breaker and wiring to match.

 

I have the same machine, these will last generations, been running mine off a 50 amp for many years with no problems, have larger wire though.

 

I was thinking the MAX is could run was maybe a 225 or 200 unit as my 230v breaker is 40a. I run a 6hp compressor and my Millermatic 185 off of that circuit without tripping the breaker. So I might need to go with a newer machine with the 230v setup I have.

 

It appears from the list above you are looking at inverter type machines.....
I have a Miller Syncrowave 210..... the Miller Syncrowave 250 series is a better machine... both work well. I feel Lincoln is a more rugged piece. The only reason I have this Miller is that it will run on 110 and 220 and I can do repairs at the track if needed with a 110 generator... Both Lincoln and Miller are fine machines and you cannot go wrong with either one. Most hobby machines are a 20% duty cycle and I feel are much to light for most of what goes on here @ the HAMB.

 

My experience with this is that you will need an AC/DC welder with AC High Freq. to do any TIG Aluminum. For a small home shop a digital unit will be fine and will be easier to fine tune holding a more stable arc, it's when you have to move the power supply around by hand in a service/production situation in a repair outfit is when your circuit cards will be the most vulnerable. On old machines you run the risk of also popping the inverter/converter/rectifier (or magneto--whatever--you get the idea) and repairs would still cost you even if replacement parts were still available. BTW a water cooler for your tig torch is really only necessary if you are pounding out 150-200+ amps running hard at a high duty cycle. If you are tig welding aluminum boats together day in day out then it might be a necessity; if you are going to tig mild/stainless steel parts together it really isn't.

 

I have a Miller Econotig and it works great for steel and aluminum of most thicknesses. The only drawback I have found so far is that when welding super thin stuff (like 24 gauge or thinner), it doesn't have the "ramp in" feature to get a gentile low amperage arc started. I think the min amperage is like 15 or 25 amps when you ease into the pedal. It's never been an issue until I had to weld on some stainless hose clamps- my machine would instantly blow a hole in them, and my buddies nicer machine could weld it without issue due to the ability to ramp the setting. I'm soon gonna upgrade to the Miller Syncrowave with this feature just because...

 

Good Stuff right here

 

And it looks like the smallest should be a 175-180A machine.

Maybe a Lincoln precision 225
Lincoln squarewave 200 (Which I haven't researched much yet)

Miller synchowave 210
Miller dynasty 210 (super pricey)
MAYBE the Miller diversion 180 for no frills

Anyone have more to say about these machines.......

 

Dan, I have the Lincoln precession 225 and it's a great machine.

 

I have a Miller Sycrowave 250DX, with a water cooler (circa 2003). It is much larger than current units, but it can weld all-day, every-day, any material.

If you stick to a major brand name, and new-ish enough that you can still get parts, you should be good with a decent used one.

If you have doubts, ask the seller if you can have it checked out by your local welding supply house, that handles repairs. Well worth the money that they would charge for this.

 

I reread your original post and ***ume you want specific info on only these machines, to that end I do not have direct experience with any of those you have listed. I have used the synchrowave 350 and xmt 304 cc/cv a lot (both wired for 440V) for light/medium pipe and structural repairs and never came close to their potential duty limits. If I were you knowing what I know, I would recommend to myself to choose a machine capable of every process needed and pick the one with the highest duty cycle affordable keeping the warranty in mind. To me picking a welder is kind of like picking a t.v. set: regardless of the brand or model, most people will get the most features they can for the money because the fit, finish and performance are comparable from all makes at given price points.

If you don't mind me asking, what components are you tig welding?

 

I'm gonna take some heat for this...
A couple years ago I was looking to upgrade from my '70's vintage AC DC hi freq no features Miller. Did a boatload of research, ended up buying an Everlast powertig 200DX. It's an inverter machine, runs on a 30 amp 220 circuit, has AC DC hi frequency, foot pedal, pre and post flow, adjustable pulse- it's a lot of machine for about a quarter the price of a comparable Miller or Lincoln. Yes, it's made in China ( I usually won't buy Chinese stuff), the IGBT units are Seimens, I've had no trouble with the machine or the outboard stuff. I've welded a fair bit of 3/16 steel with it, the air cooled torch does get hot after a while. If you want to weld lots of 3/16 aluminum, it's not the ideal machine. For general hot rod and custom car construction, I'm very pleased with it. A friend has the next Everlast machine up from mine, he's had no trouble for five years. I also own three Millers and one Lincoln, so I don't feel too bad about having one offshore machine. If you hit the welding websites, you'll find the Everlast machines compare well in tests against domestic machines (most of which now contain boards made offshore).

 

Want to know the best thing about a water cooled torch?
It's not really that it stays cool, it certainly does do it but that's not the best thing not at all.
The water cooled torch is smaller, lighter, less cable fight fatigue for equal amperage capacity.

You can add or swap at any time and you really don't need an expensive , elaborate or fancy cooler to run it either.

A machine that runs on dual voltage is nice too.
You can take it anywhere and do anything. Take it into the shopping mall or school and weld handrails, run over your buddies and weld in his ba*****t, at the track, inside a brewery tank, the possibilities are endless.

 

I use the miller 180 SD for Tig welding and it works great for everything I need it for except aluminum thicker than 3/16" which is marginal for this machine. By mixing Helium with your Argon, you can get another 20 amps of welding power. If I had to do over, I would get at least a 200 amp machine with pulse but I do use a spool gun for thicker aluminum so I get by.
I had to have a circuit board repaired for my XMT 304 and Miller wanted $800 for a new board and I found a place that repairs these boards for 1/3 the cost of a new board and they give a year warranty.
http://www.industrialelectronics.com

 

I use a Miller 180 but a 210 would be there if needed, As I have needed a few times over 17 yrs
(thicker aluminum)

 

Thanks everyone, that's what I want to hear is real world stuff......the good, the bad and the ugly. I've done the upgrade thing before, bought a cheap mig welder, fought with it, learned on it, gave it away because I couldn't even sell it and saved to buy the Miller mig I have now (which is waaay easier to use). It would have been nice just to get the better machine to learn on and keep (If I had the $$$ back then). I want to get a good durable machine this time so I can learn and keep it for awhile.

I also want to buy it used and I like the idea of having it checked out first. Is buying the new, digital, circuit board machines still worth buying used or am I in for more trouble then it's worth. I've worked on the diesel powered arc welders at work, but it's always been on the engine side...just lots of boards on the welder side (replaced one board because of a lack of display).

 

Miller , look for Rebates , you can buy online , but somthing like this I buy local , so that way if there's any issues their local ,,
Tiging takes lost of practice !!!!!!
you will crash and burn ((burnt tungsten ))

 

Just so you won't have to take a beating on your own, I have the 200DX too. For me it was a machine like this or no TIG at all. No complaints here.

 

Just for the record as where to buy a machine.... I bought my Miller Syncrowave 210 from Cyber weld on the Net.... had excellent experience from them....

 

Damn near anything will weld 1/8th or 3/16ths, what you need to test is .032 and less. I had to weld .015 (without any backing) a few days ago, it takes a very good machine to do that. So take some thin sheetmetal with you to test, you may not have skill yet to weld them but they should have somebody that does have it and don't let them lay the metal on a plate so it has backing, have them weld it on expanded metal so there is air behind it.
That is the litmus test.

 

Just a thought, but I got my Miller Synchrowave 180SD used out of a welding school run by Maine Oxy here in Maine. It had exposed only to light use and was half the price of new. I am only learning to TIG on steel only, so cannot comment other than on the source and price. That find happened about 12 years ago and I have had no problems whatsoever with the machine. Don't limit your sources!

 

I have a Miller Diversion 180 and I love it. I upgraded the torch on it to use a regular torch without the controls on the handle allowing me to use it with the foot pedal.
You can then separate out the control lead and keep it and the old torch handle with the thumb wheel to use as a remote control when you want to weld something without the foot pedal. (You can google Miller Diversion 180 torch upgrade for details)
I've found it to be a really good machine for my use at home.
Not as capable ( or as expensive) as the Dynasty 200 s and 350 s we use at the school however it's more than enough for the work I need to do building my RPU on both steel and aluminum.

I'll be using it later today as I start to do the finish welding on the RPU.

 

I too have a Lincoln Precision TIG225 and it has been great for the nine years I have owned it. It will weld all metals and is plugged into a 50AMP plug. I have tried several torches and controls and the WPA17 air cooled torch and foot pedal seems to work the best for me. If I used it for thicker Aluminum or stainless the water cooled torch might be better. I have tried all kinds of electrodes and the 2% Lanthanated works great for any metal including Aluminum. I also bought an electrode grinder from a company called Tech South. It looks like a Dremel tool with a pencil sharpener on it. It turned out to be worth the money since the consistant points really improve the welds. I'm old and self taught but my stuff looks pretty good. A side benefit is you can unplug the torch and plug in a stinger and weld with stick rods. I have built a few BBQ pits and benches with stick welds.

 

Same here.

 

We had some Synchrowave 180's where I used to work; they were ok, but lacked the range and performance of the Synchrowave 250.