I bought a 49-54 chevy power brake pedal ***embly at speedway motors. Bolted it to the original k-meber and tried to mount the 7" booster to it. There is hardly space between the bracket and the floor. Anyone a good solution ? Sent from my GT-I9195I using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
install a m/c that fits correctly [the original for example] then use a PBR VH40 or VH44 remote brake booster ,they can be mounted anywhere
Have you talked to the tech department at Speedway? I am using a similar power brake ***embly from another company, and although it is a tight fit, it clears everything and works great. John
I'm from the Netherlands, doesn't make it easier Sent from my GT-I9195I using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is what I would use for an under-floor system. It requires plumbing but should not be too difficult for a decent mechanic/fabricator. They are not exactly cheap new but they can be found in older GM heavy duty pick ups and Lincoln cars. https://www.performanceonline.com/HydroBoost-Power-Brake-Booster-Kit/
Which, while perfectly common in the United States, might be a little harder to come by in The Netherlands. I flipped the picture, to make it more clear for the casual observer.
I have had to do a little "gentle hammering" to make a little dimple in the floor for some of these. It sometimes depends on the condition of the cab mounts. If they have deteriorated, the cab will be closer to the frame than with fresh ones. Your cab does not look rusty, so it is unlikely you have metal collapse. Look for a picture of them on the internet, and compare what the cab mounts look like to what you have, and see if they are failing.
Single or dual diaphragm booster ? De dual is longer and can give some clearance to structure underneath the floor .... Sent from my GT-I9195I using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Some early fifties cars had power brake boosters under the floor, and a bulge in the floor to fit them. If the bulge is under the seat no one will ever see it.
I sold it, ordering walton fabrications firewall mounting Sent from my GT-I9195I using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You do not need a booster..! If you get the correct master cylinder piston diameter for the calipers, calipers/drums used, a booster is NOT needed. How do I know this, I've done it to two different cars, with different 4 wheel disc components...and no booster on either car The brakes work great... Just takes a little homework on matching piston sizes...not that difficult. The information is in many brake books, it's not a secret. Mike
Lmao ! One main reason I **** around with a booster ,,, Manual brakes work just fine but because of the pedal ratio the foot pad rides higher than with power brakes. Depending on the situation, ergonomics and cramped up foot space that can be a real ***** in stop and go daily driving and down right dangerous in the emergency stuff.
WANTS...a booster...that's funny..! 31V - My third car to go without a booster has short pedals like you allude to. Just a different/correct pedal ratio needs to be setup to get the mechanical advantage. Doesn't "need" long pedal arms. Mike
Mike VV, I don't run boosters either, and use disc brakes. It can be made to work well. Booster are like warts.
I did the same thing when I first bought my car I ended up adding about a foot and z-ing the bracket to get it to fit and not sit below the frame rail. I have been running that for about 7 years with no problem. If at first you don't succeed get a bigger hammer, and if then you don't succeed, get a beer.
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