When I removed my body, I found that several of the blocks of wood had gone missing, desinigrated as I removed the body, or were never put in place to begin with (wothless previous owner probably skimped on doing it correctly in the first place). Is there something better than using blocks of wood or where is the best place to either get new wood or patterns to cut new wood? I am nowhere near being ready to remount the body, but just wondering what to do when it gets time. How have others dealt with this in mounting their bodies on a stock A frame? Thanks, Huey
buy new ones from any model A parts supplier . i like Snyder's: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/detail.php?fm_itemid=817&fm_catid=59&fm_parentid=817
Huey you can make blocks if you have enough for patterns. If you dont care about 'correct' (on your hotrod!) just measure the gap between body and frame, The originals had unneccessary shapes maybe I will give you some measurements. I used treated wood. Of course the purists require ash or oak or whatever. Brattons has a picture in the catalog showing where they go.
Thanks. Mine were mostly dissinigrated to dust as I removed the body. The cost of Bratton's, Snyder's and such is sort of a bigger chunk of change than what I want to spend for a low-buck rod, if possible. I'd like to make my own, and I don't care about puritist ideas of ash or oak. I'd appreciate the measurements, if you have them available. Actually, it would be interesting to find some chunks of rubber that would work, but not sure where to look in that regard. Thanks, Huey
Huey, heres the pic. 1 thru 5. I think there is a rubber pad at the firewall then number 1 is next with number 5 at the rear cross member. I think sedan uses a shorter number 5 this one is for coupes. The blocks have weird shapes that are not needed for a hot rod. number 1 is 1 1/8 tall, 2=1 1/16, 3=1 13/16, 4=15/16, and 5 is 1 15/16 inches between body and frame number 1 is drivers side, large holes are the body to frame boltholes
Snyder's has the blocks for about $30. I haven't gotten to the point of mounting them up yet, but they look nice.
unless you are useing a stock frame you will probably only use the front, [2] body bolt holed, blocks... the stockers ran the body bolts through the cross channels not the front to back subrails... the riveted cross channel/ subrail unions needed funky slots and countersinks in the wood to clear the overlaps and rivets... the odd overhead view of the model a frame shows how far inboard some mounting bolts were... if someone made only the front, 2 hole, cowl mounting blocks, they could sell them around here... bandsaw, drill press and a planer, and you are in !
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