Technical Sound of a burned valve or bad lifter?

Dude,chill a little, don't fuck with people trying to help you, change the condenser ( they are pure shit anymore) and adios

 

Caution, long winded post with full recap of entire thread.


Ok, so I know this post has been a bit of shit show and for my part I am sorry. But here is the latest update. Car still misfires. There's a very slight misfire at idle that gets flares into a complete rpm limiting misfire around 1800 rpm.

To recap;

-Engine is a 266 flathead
-Merc crank bored .060 over
-Decked mildly
-Standard compression pistons
-Stock heads
-Schneider camshaft
-Reds headers hollow Johnson style lifters
-Shimmed stock valve springs
-New valves, guides, seals.
-Stock intake
-Stock carburetor
-Reds headers dual exhaust
-New fuel pump
-Stock distributor/bubbas smallbock conversion
-Stock replacement coil/brillman hot coil
-packard 440 wire and new terminals
-Stock negative lead to solenoid
-2 gauge autozone cable for ground from battery to driver side head and driver side radiator support , back of drivers side head to body, and front of passenger head to radiator support. (I suspect the quality of this cable might be part of the problem)
-Ground/batt disconnect switch in line with ground.
-compression is around 130 and even between all cylinders
-dynamic compression was around 60psi at idle and within 10 lbs in all cylinders and all cylinders behaved the same way as the engine rpm was increased to the threshold of misfire.



So, basically I put this engine in my car fresh, using the stock distributor for break in. The car was static timed and advance/retard disconnected. The car ran great for cam break in and approximately 250 miles as I drove it really gently with the timing static using the stock distributor. THEN, I was on a drive on a really hot day and the car began to overheat. Now, I am going to stress there was never a boil over or any steam evident from the engine, simply that the gauge read hot. Well, as I was looking for somewhere to pull over and let her cool down, she died. Wouldn't start until the it cooled down a little and then proceeded to die a few feet later. Well, after several hours and letting it cool completely, it fired and I drove home. The only problem was that now there was what seemed to be a slight misfire at idle and as the engine is revved through the Rpm range, it would break up. SO, I replaced the coil and ordered a "Bubbas distributor" to update my ignition system to par, as I assumed my prestolite coil had given up the ghost and I needed a distributor anyway. Well, I added bubbas dizzy and it was the same symptoms, if not a little worse. After I added the dizzy, I then since added a new American made coil, installed the grounds from the heads to the rad support, and checked compression both cranking and dynamic (running). At this point in time, the one symptom I couldn't explain was that the terminals in the distributor cap on both the original dizzy and now bubbas dizzy are burner closed to the trailing edge, and it gets progressively worse until the last 2 terminals have almost no burning at all except on the very edge. Fast forward to the last time I worked on the car a couple weeks ago, I decided to test the voltage while the car was running. Wel HOLY CRAP, it was charging @ around 13v at idle and up near 17v at anything above idle. SO, my buddy and I took the generator completely out of the electrical system and just ran the car off of the 6v battery, thinking "EUREKA, WE'VE FOUND IT!!!" But alas, no, the car still misfired exactly as it did before. So I swapped the coil, small difference, but still not anything to write home about.

So my final plans to hopefully try and fix this is to install a 1 wire 6v alternator that I have, and replace all large electrical wiring with brand new 2/0ga American made welding cable. I am also planning to replace the points, condenser, and coil again with brand new American made parts, to assure no damage was done. I will update you guys as soon as I can get this done.

However, my real question is this, even though I know the car was running way too high voltage, why would the car still misfire running on only the 6v battery, if the voltage was the cause?? I'm sorry for being an ass in the past, I'm just really baffled on this car and have tried what I feel to be, just about everything. I don't know what could be causing this.


I'd also like to note that bubbas dizzy seems to wobble a little bit. The factory dizzy does wobble but not nearly as much. And I mean if the clamp is loose. Bubba is aware and has offered to replace my dizzy, which is still something I may do, but again, the car misfires with both dizzy's and burns the terminals the same way in both dizzys.

 

That is how what you asked sounds like,a burnt valve will also suck a dollar bill back up the tail pipe too.

 

We're past that buddy, but thanks.

 

Check the plug wires for resistance - resistor wires should be 10k ohms per foot, or less. Also look for bad connectors on the ends. 1800 - is that under load? Check the plug gaps, maybe go with a new set. Maybe connect a vacuum gauge, go for a ride. Try another condenser from NAPA - cheap 'nuff.

You are being SMART by making only ONE change at a time... Good Luck, Tim