Now we know what's going on....sounds like it should work ok. But maybe the new mounting surface you made is not quite perfectly straight? This pic shows some waviness to it, but I realize this is before you finished the bodywork. I think I would have made a piece that screws in from the inside (maybe like an original garnish molding?) to clamp the rubber channel in place. And not glued the rubber to the body. Let it float, but make sure it is securely supported.
I don't know of any "Plastic" that has a DOT approval for cars.[/QUOTE] Not trying to be a smart *** or anything but being that motorcycles have had plastic windshields since the beginning, I wouldn't think a reasonable judge would rule against you for having one? Not fairly anyway.
Not trying to be a smart *** or anything but being that motorcycles have had plastic windshields since the beginning, I wouldn't think a reasonable judge would rule against you for having one? Not fairly anyway.[/QUOTE] Nope. The law in all 50-states is gl***. You won't get to see a judge. You could get your car impounded, or a "fix-it" ticket, so you will have to do gl*** anyway.
been running plexiglas side windows in my Chevy II for a few years now, 13k miles on it, no issues with the fuzz yet. And I've driven it in a bunch of different states of the Union.
If I was doing the gl***, I would put the gasket on the gl*** with a little urethane in between, put a bead of urethane on the body and put the window in place. Put the inside trim on to hold the gl*** in place. That way the urethane will take up any unevenness in the bodywork. Smooth out any urethane that shows on the outside with a rag and acetone. Windows are glued in in newer cars with very uneven bodywork all the time using urethane with no problems. Or you could get rid of the gasket entirely and just glue the gl*** in with rubber blocks under the gl*** to center it in the opening.
One issue IMO is the seal you're using isn't big/thick enough (not enough 'give' in it), and I suspect you're installing the gl*** too 'tight'. The way Ford installed these windows, they used a rubber u-channel on the gl***, then installed the gl***/channel as an ***embly. It's a 'loose' fit in the opening too; the gl***/channel will literally fall out if some sealer isn't used to 'glue' it in, but don't get carried away. The garnish molding is what actually holds the gl*** in. Ford used a small bead of that non-hardening grey clay-like sealer on both the gl***-to-channel and the channel-to-body. This sealer is still used for motorhome ***embly, so I know you can still buy it. Unlike silicone or urethane, this will allow the gl*** to 'move' around a bit. I wouldn't use urethane unless using tempered gl***, as removing it for gl*** replacement is a *****. For the seal, look at this one from McMaster-Carr; part number 8507K45. This is the closest match I've seen to the OEM seal, and it's a full 1/8" thicker in cross-section than what you're using, as well as having a slightly 'loose' fit on the gl***. Here's some on eBay for less than you can buy if from them... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mc-Master-C...07K45-1-4-inside-width-1-2-Deep-/161899822758 I'm ***uming that you're using at least 7/32" thick laminated safety gl*** (as per OEM); thinner will break easier. And this is still ***uming the opening is 'flat' and straight, with no 'twist' in it. But even with all this, that's still an awful long piece of gl*** and if you get any body flex, breakage could still be a problem. Tempered gl*** would no doubt solve the problem as long as the opening is good, and you can drop down to 3/16" thick gl*** (saving weight), but the several hundred dollar price premium over laminated is tough to swallow. Last, I wouldn't discount the use of Lexan out of hand. Yes, it does scratch and sooner or later it will weather-check from sunlight exposure. But if extreme care is used in cleaning it (soft rag with lots of hot soapy water, then polish with a high-quality plastic polish like Maguire's FAA-approved polish), you can keep it looking good for a long time.
I prefer to use a rubber based tape to install the gl*** on the bottom channel as it will not hold moisture like the cork does, both will work and both last a long time.
I have installed a lot of Lexan in racecars. Doing one now. Cut it with a jig saw sand the edges and go. Best thing I have found to clean and keep Lexan clean is Lemon pledge and the softest cloth you can find. Lexan is the easiest thing to work with there is. JMO. The biggest enemy Lexan has is someone with a rag. Lippy
I have successfully cut gl*** on a wet saw I use for ceramic tile, with a diamond blade and water coolant, but have not done laminated windshields.
Chaz, flat laminated when cut by an old school gl*** shop will score the gl*** from a pattern and put relief cuts in, they pour alcohol in the crack and light it, thus softens the PVB interlayer. Then use a razor to cut the pvb as they flex the score. They break out the pieces then use a double belt seamer and sand the inner and outer lite. What can happen is the sanding can put a micro crack along the edge and it will crack when flexed. The edge finish must be well done and the size has to be right when fitting the rubber gasket. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Regarding tempering, it is done to s single pain of single strength gl*** usually 5 mm by heating to 800 degrees and then quenching it with cool air, this toughens the gl*** and resist cracks but when you penetrate the tough surface it implodes into small chards. You never use tempered in a winshield because when it crack from stone debris you can't see through it, where laminate just cracks. Laminated also has really high penetration resistance, think of bowling ball off an overp*** or a p***enger ejecting through the windshield. Some high end cars use laminated side lites today mainly for noise reduction in the cabin. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Like you, I eliminated the sliding gl*** in my '51 Pontiac. I didn't see any way of keeping the slider from leaking water, I was missing a couple pieces of the channel, and I thought it broke up the line of the car. Instead of filling the gap where the first gl*** went, I used windshield sealant tape, then laid a bead of w/s urethane around the entire opening, and just set the gl*** as you'd glue a w/s in. I put a piece of cork/rubber gl*** tape on the bottom where gl*** sets, so it wouldn't set on metal. The garnish molding inside has belt line trim (the fuzzier with a stainless beaded edge, that just barely rests agains the gl***. There's no pressure on the gl*** anywhere, we've driven the car 50K miles in 10 years.
Tempered windshields have been used in Europe for years, in NA the US DOT rules, and they say laminated...
The Jalopy Journal
