HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

I found running over the parts with a wire cub brush on a grinder was the magic after washing. Kept the flash rust down and I live a mile from the ocean

 

I don't think you need to neutralize it. The Mol***es isn't caustic and its very slow at what it does. That being said I have some stuff that I've just taken out and let it dry. It of course has a residue on it but looks alright. Most of the stuff that I've hosed off and just let be gets light flash rust. There's parts that I've done that I will grind on so a little rust is ok with me. Some things I've been putting in there because a have it up and going right now.
Matt will be happy to know that I'm putting some of my pickup parts in there like the commercial grill, gas tank, front axle/bones/spindles, and anything else I can get to before this stuff peeters out or it gets to cold to bother.


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Nobody seems to know what the lifespan of the stuff is. A buddy put a horses water trough heater in his tank and let it run all winter

 

The guy from down under who's vids I first watched said six months. The first 30 gallons I had in the steel drum I used for a month. It got so black and stunk like death, it also had some weird oil like effect going on with it. It eats up the old pot metal or aluminum parts like the old door handles. The brake drum 'iron'? inserts do something strange too, I hope they're ok.


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I had my steel drum for several months. Yup it sure stunk. Even with big gloves and a shower it was still hanging on.

 

The gr*** should grow back better than ever next spring. At least, that's what happened for me.

 

Love the way your taking the build. It's gonna be a sweet ride when your done.


Kleen Strip(tm) Prep and Etch is mostly the same thing as the Por-15 Metal Prep, at half the price. Key ingredient being Phosphoric Acid. I've used both and the only place I can see any major difference is my wallet. You can get it at most house paint supply places and the big box stores like Lowe's or HD.


Vinegar is a good cheap de-rusting agent also--just don't leave parts in too long, especially thin ones. But, as with all home brew solutions, you'll have to play with it. Also, you get serious flash rust; and odor too.
This is just after a a day two soaking in vinegar and hosed off.

 

Years ago I had popped the bezels and lenses off a newer gauge, then played with different black magic markers to get the right shade when it dries, then I blacked out the shorter / fine lines, you might black out those and the words water and engine oil... leaving pressure and temp... check out the speedo... no short line, no words... i tried to make them match the speedo's layout...
... but that is only my opinion....

 

Thanks for your interest in my build!
I just located the Klean strip at HD in town. I am appreciate your advice and now saving me money that can be directed to other parts of the project. This comes at a perfect time too. I almost ordered another gallon of the POR last night. I only didn't do this cause I was speaking to my dear friend(God parents to my children)who I just finished building a guitar for and gave to him a couple weeks ago. He was informing how his wife had surgery to remove a Cancerous lump in her breast. They knew of this impending procedure when I gave him his gift. This explains any weirdness I felt in them that day. While I was speaking to him, news came in that another close friend of mine and his fiancé wouldn't as well be making it to my kids B-Day party Saturday. His new house was in a fire that consumed all there possessions, dogs, and his mother who had moved in to be under there care. Sad day all around.



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You have a m***ive job on your hands! but i love the way you're taking it all in your stride and step by step, prepared to pump out a fair amount of extra labour then most would take on to get what you want! good on ya ,enjoying this build very much Johnny

 

You're welcome. I've learned a few things about rust removal over the years on my own build--at one time it was nearly in the same state-- glad to p*** the knowledge along.
CLR (household cleaner) works too, as does a product called Evaporust, for anyone interested. how well the CLR works depends on how you dilute it. Evaporust is good and can be used as a temporary anti-corrosion inhibitor if you clean the part off, coat it with the product and let it dry (post-de rusting), but it runs at least $20/gal. (Harbor Freight, a**** other places) Both are great for small parts, like bolts and nuts as you can let them just sit for a week or so and not worry about the agent eating away the metal. Little wire brush clean-up and away you go.

Best of wishes on your friend wife's surgery. Hope all turns out well. Hope he enjoys the guitar Was that the red one photobombing your work earlier?

 

Yeah if you read back a bazillion posts I was using Evaporust. Works but is pricey for big stuff.
As for the guitar, I get torn about the off topic stuff on this thread. It is cluttered with garbage, most of it my fault, makes for a ****py read. On the other hand, for me, hot rods and guitars, or guitars and Cadillacs, weave a winding road both pushing one another through souls of the ones able and willing to listen and feel the ride. Yes I just puked out that garbage for giggles.
This one





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I for one like the off topic stuff, some people have a life as well as a p***ion for hot rods and customs.

I am not a musician by any stretch but that is a nice guitar, it is damn pretty.

 

I know what you mean about wandering threads. My own build thread is intertwined with interesting tidbits not really related to my car-but naturally I bring it back to the good stuff. But, like Dumprat says, it keeps it interesting.

 

One of the things I love about this mol***es besides getting in all the places sand blasting won't, is how it lets stubborn old bolts and screws come out fairly easily. I've removed all my window regulators and door latch mechanisms with there original flat head screws. I love the idea of reusing them, the more original 80+ year old parts the better.
The latches and regulators have came out way better than I would have hoped for.


I took them out though to give them a rebuild and grease lovin. I put two back in the sauce to get a little more rust off. I guess I should protect them before reinstalling to keep the rust at bay. I'm hopeful all these mechanisms will actually function well when the car is finished. This is great cause it saves a bit of money. I think I owe this to mol***es.
I'm having trouble with the lock cylinder if anyone has suggestions. I want to save it and get it re-keyed if possible.

I removed a long set screw from the front inside of the door

Through this hole. I'm afraid to hit it too hard.
I also got this old topper from a HAMBr to go with my old Mobil Pegasus topper.

I probably have a overkill amount of period detail bits now.
In this pic you can see where I tweaked the rear crossmember to get the spring and axle about 7/16" forward. I still have to grind the welds down then I'm putting a drilled "fish plate" reinforcement piece on top of it. Can't be too cautious back there. I don't want to climb under the car every day checking for cracks.
I hope to get the bulk of the last body parts out of the juice tomorrow. I have to have days where it's above freezing so the stuff doesn't ice up when rinsing and prepping. I still have to make my new ash wood structure components for the roof.
I CAN NOT wait to start stichin this *****in thing back together. Maybe I should watch Frankenstien a couple times before I begin?




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Btw I used a br*** wire wheel on a drill to clean up my regulators. They were like new when finished. Even shiny!

 

This is the kinda lame stuff goin on around here that I try not to bother posting about.

Had to pick out all the remaining windshield seal dried rubber. Tedious at best. I had tested 2 cut off pieces of the frame in the mol***es to see if I wanted to chance doing the whole thing. It seems safe and I was just worried about losing too much of the shiny stuff that is surrounded by brown stuff. It's taking a bath now.
Went through the box of 33 roof chop bits I got from George. I need to replace a fair amount of the insert channel. My two front corners are real bad and I don't have any pieces for that. Might just have to make some. I want to put a little effort into the top before I put it on the car. Need to make the roof slats like right now.
Soon I will order some steel to make my sub rails. I'm totally ripping off @Pete on how I'll do this. I hadn't even put much thought into it until I got hooked on his latest build. I'm still going to make the front floor 32 style and use wood for the foot and toe boards. But under the seat and back I want to make it look 34ish. I have been studying all the 32-34 floors for ideas. The easy road would be to just use poetic license and hot rod it but I want it to appear stock. My feelings are that there would be no need to replace the floor in 1946.
Got lots of stuff out of the juice today. I'm getting close to begin sewing metal.
And for a moment of humbling honesty(I'm no pro builder), I just realized today that I completely forgot about my rear bones and the relation ship with the frame rails. It seems they will run right into the frame when the suspension is bottomed, typical, bone head move. All this stuff is covered on the HAMB and I still mess it up.


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DAM! You are the man...Tons of good things going on with this build....Keep it rolling

 

Thanks "Busiest Man in Hot Rodding"
Dennis I have begun to try to remove your Bezel but I didn't figure out how to get it off without hurting it. I'm sick today but Im trying hard to get it shipped before I leave town for the Holidays.
Merry Merry!


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Well I got a PM from Jerry and the bars are on there way. I should have them Monday or Tuesday and will get back on the grill. Been working on saving the shell. Hope ya get it off before splitting, but if not ya can do it when you return. Have a safe trip & I sure hope you are feeling better. ****s to be sick during the holidays.
Merry Christmas

 

I've put a little of my minds attention while being sick to my front seats. I posted a pic on page 4 of the old mid century movie theater seats I got for $15.

I hooked up(maybe forced) @Fordg***er1 George to take a pair for his 33 5w. He modified his like so, For a bomber style


I had plans to retain more of a stock style an upholster them with a Mohair fabric. I also like the bases but they will need to be widened to better fit the backs. I got an extra base to cut sections out of to add to my two bottoms. I think now I will narrow the back a bit too. They're sorta wide. With me using the back seat for sure in this Tudor I need the backs to tilt forward for child access. I figured I would implement the spring loaded base into this idea. By securing the base to the floor or a slider mechanism and switching the spring and rotation direction of the bases' shaft, I would have something to pivot the backs off of.
Now with all the aggressive turns my car has takin I'm leaning more towards the WWII look myself. I sketched this out today.

I for sure know that I'm going to make the base tilt using a spring loaded pull pin on each side of the seat. Again working off of the Spindle shaft that goes through the base. I am still thinking on a design where the back pivots off this shaft as well while retaining the bomber look sides. Some sort of seem or just the backs ears overlapping the side mount plates.

I'll figure it all out by the time I get a bead roller. I'm putting 2 lines in the back tops and some holes in there as well to more mimic a P-38 seat.
The side holes will have 2 that allow for the seat belts to go through. Aircraft style of course. Bad news is that the stockish mohair angle probably won't gel with the Bomber look. Will see.




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Got the grill bars from Jerry in the mail. I have them all straighten out and looking great. Now all I need is the bezel.....

 

This one?

I tried to be gentle. I've left it as I spread it apart to minimize the suffering on this old Henry stainless.

I think it will close up again for you easy. As for the pin hole? It is from the spot weld giving out on your part as apposed to the insert I'm using, sorry.
Here's the center hole enlargement.

I wish you would have asked for this before I did that. I would have left it alone. I'm only committing to the pines lower piece because you needed a "Bezel" anyway.
I also dug up a cool aged piece of copper I'll make the round access cover plate out of.


I'll never be able to have a true Pines br*** one so I'll just embrace this forced alteration. My wife taught me a neat way of using bleach to weather the copper bars I'm going to make.
If I could just come up with a large sheet of copper for a roof insert, then good ol' George could louver that ****** with seven rows of bad***.


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On the lock , are you able to get the cylinder out? I had to fix my ignition switch and it turns out I didn't have the correct key. With the barrel out, I was able to file the correct blank until it worked. Saved me the $$ of having to take it to lock smith. Naturally this method you need the tumblers exposed.

 

I bet I can make it work! As I am not wanting a show grill.....just an original parts one. I will send you a photo when I get it done. Thanks Dennis

 

Thanks @stonewall for these trinkets.

There really gonna tie the room together.



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Groovy

 

Yeah I keep dreading the possibility of getting ***-ended by today's newfangled disconnected drivers, well connected to the net anyway.
Maybe these gl*** reflectors will save my gas tank and rear louvered panel or at least my 1932 Indiana license plate and topper collection[emoji15]


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Yes, it's scary when you have to drive looking in the rear view mirror as well as out the windshield and both side windows!

 

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