Projects hemi water crossovers- whatcha got because this sucks.

Can you sketch out that flat head setup up? Have a pic or two of exactly what your referencing. I don't know flatheads very well


Like I said earlier, Been there done that on the small stats

 

The thermostats just sit on top of the head's outlet. I put a 1" long piece of exhaust tube above the thermostat, inside the hose to hold it tight. Ignore the corrosion on the second pic, it's the only closeup of the neck I could find.

 

Thanks !

 

I understand wanting a thermostat. We need the water to slow down in the Rad to cool it. How, or does a restricter washer work on a street car in place of a Stat? That could help with dia needed for small neck housing at the head.
The Wizzard

 

Washers and restrictions aren't a temperature control valve. Once coolant temperature p***es a minimum set point the tstat holds that minimum set point by closing again. Washers don't close. The entire cooling system (that's a lot of stufffffff ) needs to be more efficient at shedding heat than the engine is at making it or its going ot over heat. Running an engine below operating temp is a set of problems all its own.

 

31Vicky; Excellent point. I'm following this due to my 50 Merc project. I have been planing to run two top hoses connected to the stock top Merc tank. Figgured I was on my own there.
The Wizzard

 

From what I've read, restrictions such as the washers are only to slow down the flow of coolant, not regulate the temp of it. Ford uses a restrictor in the heater hose of a lot of vehicles to slow the coolant going through the heater core to keep from overpowering it and the coolant flowing through too fast to provide heat. Using a washer in a drag car radiator hose slows the flow of water so it captures more heat from the engine, but for the short time they are run, it doesn't affect the cooling temp, only it allows more heat to be taken in by the coolant at high RPM's. If anything, an engine with a flow restrictor probably runs hotter, just like the Ford heater core does, instead of cooler.

 

We dealt with the Hotheads deal glad they make parts but...be very careful to purge all air --it is a must--be very careful

 

Obviously won't work with a blower (or injector) manifold ... but here's how the Chrysler HEMI engines in our '32 5wd Coupe have been set up since 1955:

Circa 1958: The 331 with water jacket block off plates and "flathead-style" radiator hoses


Circa 1975: The 392 with the same "flathead-style" radiator hoses


Circa 1990: The 392 with the chromed "flathead-style" radiator tubes (with "restrictor washers") and rubber hose ends

​

 

No doubt that this thread helped push the final price to $395.00.
Since my mom and wife got sniped out of it, I'll be building at least 1.
At least 6 other bidders were interested so let me know if you really want one too.

 

That's a really neat look !
You can do that on a old cragar style 4-71 manifold or with the HH high rise blower manifold.
Could you run thermostats instead of washers?

 

31Vicky, There are thermostats that slip into a radiator hose and are held in place with a hose clamp. I don't remember what cars they were on, but I know I have replaced them. I am thinking European in the 80's. They would work on anything

 

I am with you that the PAW crossover is the best choice and would be interested in one or maybe even more, but the final cost is almost always the determining factor. I LOVE Donovan valve covers but a thousand dollars compared to two hundred to have originals chromed was too big a difference for me to justify to even myself, let alone my wife.

 

I hear you!

 

I welded over the couple of pin holes and used JB as added insurance. I'll wait and see what happens. If it weeps I'll just strip the JB off and just reweld. I won't use the AN fitting stuff.

 

Heat it up with a torch and it comes off pretty easy. Hopefully it'll be just fine as is.

 

Sand blast would do it also. At this time it's just a wait and see. Nothing ventured nothing gained, but thanks for the head up. As I said I won't us the AN stuff and I've found nothing else that will work on the baby Hemi

 

Vicky,
I machined the ends out of billet aluminum and used SS tubing and small rad hose for the connections. Utilized the BB Chevy water pump byp*** also. The one on drivers side includes the thermostat. Took a little bit of 4 jaw setups, but I know you could do it. Been working flawless for 20,000 miles 180 deg. View attachment 3409455 View attachment 3409456 View attachment 3409459

 

Looks good Ago
Got some 4 jaw experience myself (30 years).
I could have bought one but where's the fun in that.
Also made the matching spacer for temp fitting.


Made this thermostat housing "reorienter" for another project.
Two piece aluminum welded on inside.

 

I fixed a punctured core tube on an aluminum radiator with jbweld it lasted 4 yrs that I had it no weeping or seeping , define " long term?

 

It probably depends on the leak. I had a small leak through a weld in the top tank of an aluminum radiator, my first attempt at fixing it was some JB Weld on the weld, it held for maybe a week or 2. Then the weeping reappeared. I believe the antifreeze chemically attacks the JB Weld, softening it; the heat and pressure of a cooling system amplifies that and coolant can be forced out through the leak. You got lucky, I didn't. I wouldn't advise it as a permanent repair for anyone.

 

^^^^^^^Top and bottom tanks expand, other area's of the radiator are more forgiving, so you are rite, depends on location of leak^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Pull a vacuum on the clean aluminum radiator, use correct epoxy for aluminum.

 

I've used both the Hot Heads hose crossover and the cast one on my 392's. When using the Hot Heads aluminum heads the ugly hose crossover is your only option due to the odd ball width needed for the mounting holes. One possible option to avoid the hose setup when running with the Hot Heads heads would be to buy two of the cast crossovers cut them up and after fitting two sides to the proper width, weld them back together. ...but that would be an awfully expensive solution.

 

I got outbid on it also. I couldn't see spending 400 on it. I would most deffinately be interested in one that puts the hose in the same area as the PAW one. Im not a huge fan of the Hot Heads setup.

 

would be nice to have a cross over problem. My early heads have no prevision for a cross over so had to find an intake with a thermostat housing and crossover built in. Try buying an Edmonds 2x4 intake like this it will make you cry

 

They sell these for Model A too and they are simply an ordinary thermostat with a band welded or brazed on

 

There is a 1954 4v intake also that has the thermostat provision too. I have it on my 331 hemi that's in my 34 truck.

Hey Vic if the water p***ages on the front of the block are the same bolt pattern as the ones on the front of the heads, I could send you an old water pump housing and maybe you could cut off the ends and weld something up that way. Just a thought.

I like the idea of the 2 hoses (flathead style) to the radiator, but would you have to use 2 thermostats?

 

I have an edmunds 2x4 -

You can drill the early 331 heads for water and use the silly *** hose thingy remote thermostat. You can pull it from the standard intake too,
Much cheaper than an edmunds but not as cool.

 

Yes you'd need 2 thermostats and 2 temp guages wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Thanks for the offer, I have a stock example or 2 for parts.

the 54 intake piece is nice, 1yr only.