Baging, adapter, t/o bearings and pilot bushings were all commercially available for the swap. I have made the t/o and pilot parts myself in the past when I did no have the Lakewood parts handy. The trans pictured above was in my 55 Chevy and will soon be in my 63 Nova. I've done similar swaps with top loader Ford units. If you're interested I can help you with the specifics. That being said DDDenny is spot on, the Richmond unit is a very rugged trans and available in several gear ratios. If it was in the budget it is a great option, as would be the AutoGear or Spec-25. I have bored many 64 and newer 283's to 4" with no problem but if you had concerns you could have the block sonic checked beforehand. I must say that I have never taken a standard plus wear block.125 over, but you may have fewer blocks to choose from in Sweden, I even bored a 283 that had been run at 4" to 4.020 and it hung in there just fine
Interesting and good to know there is more than one solution to this if need be For the moment i'm keeping that M20 and crossing my fingers it will stay togeheter The more i think about it, a 4" bore would make more sense or? Easier to get pistons and heads will work better and so on. Definitley have to check if we got someone nearby that could do that sonic check. Had may heads and crank tested for cracks at Volvo Aerospace, and probably somewhere in that factory the could sonic test too Tried to find info about this without finding any, but is there any minimum wall thickness to consider? Core shift *could* be an issue, but from what i see, there's none or minimal..... And......just the numbers "302" is mythical here
Oh, now you're stirring the pot! I have run SBC's at .150 wall thickness but would prefer to be at .200-.250 minimum on the thrust side. If you check your block and it is going to be on the thin side you can fill or partially fill the block to make it more rigid. My 2 cents is if you want a 283 build it with no more than a .090 overbore, .060 is even better, and if you're set on a 4" bore based motor look for a 327 block for your 283 crank.
Lol.....well, just looking for different solutions The 327 block is even harder to find here, so that would be a problem.... Guess it boils down to how far i want to take this engine and what i'm willing to put in and what risk of failure i can accept.... Have to think this over again, and decide which way to go...... either lower my expectations on this engine or look for another alternative perhaps. But i guess it's well worth to do the sonic check anyway..... Really really appreciate your input!!!
Figured i could show you what i'm working on. As i can understand, it's 1963 block and unbored. Measured it again today, and it's 3.881 more or less on all cylinders.... Crank got some strange "cuttings" but i guess it could be from a balancing?? 20161227_190904 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM 20161227_190857 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM 20161227_190848 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM 20161227_190843 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM 20161227_190921 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM 20161227_191002 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM 20161227_191027 by Baging posted Dec 27, 2016 at 8:58 PM
Absolutely. Already spoken with the machine shop about that, but thanks for pointing it out for me Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Interesting thread, and I am old and a 283 lover...have a pretty nice peppy one in my my Biscayne.. My only comment is that you need to remember that even that "Little Engine That Could" will chug out if you are running ~7-8K RPM's unless you build the total engine and all parts from top to bottom for that range... Good luck, and keep us in the loop
That Wiseco piston looks to me to be a flat top and have 9cc of valve reliefs, not going to make much compression with all but a very small combustion chamber.
Ah, ok.....then i don't even have to look for them Absolutely.....no good to go thru all this without taking good care of the bottom end
Well....know there's easier and better ways to do things, but i really want this done... So...i got an 1961-66 un-bored 283" (3789935), Having a hard time finding pistons for this, Hey, I still have some NOS std-bore forged flat-tops. Too mild for ya? hrt in Iowa USA tommy@huxcomm.net
If you chose to get hot rod tommys flat tops, you could get your static compression up by decking the block, make sure you have your head gaskets your going to run so you have that dimension, and deck the block for a total package of about .038-.040 total, (that's piston to deck plus head gasket thickness) with a flat top that will get you in the 11:1 comp your looking for. I run that package on my Super Stocker engine with no troubles in the piston to head clearance either. Just my 2 cents.
Nothing wrong with using a Muncie if you're just going to cruise with an attitude. If you're gonna street race, nostalgia race, power shift at 8000, while running sticky tires, that's a whole 'nother story. If that's the case, get back to us here and I will tell you what breaks transmissions, and what doesn't.
Most of the forged flat tops from yesteryears were of the variety that had 4 valve reliefs. Even those with only 2 were very tough to get compression. A 283 +.030 is a good example 3.905 x 3.00 with a flat top with 6cc of valve reliefs 0 deck with a .038 head gasket and 58cc power pack head will yield 9.39:1 compression. The only way to get 11:1 with small bore/short stroke(283) is with a piston with a large dome or a combustion chamber smaller than would be feasible. Chevrolet used a combination of both along with a .016 shim head gasket to get a 10.5:1 engine.
I too have some 283 parts, and a few for my 265's also. Because of that, I always peruse the Craig's List ads, and E-Bay auctions. Currently on E-Bay, is a full set of Bill Miller Engineering, 283 pistons. Now, these are a RACE style piston, but it's an interesting auction/ad; I think he'll also have them a while with the price he's asking. Item number 322369941576 for those interested in building a true 10,000 RPM motor! Everyone says it costs more to build a 283 as opposed to a 350; NO KIDDING!!! Have fun out there. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I say if you are going to take the time to build a small cube motor (283) Spend the $$ for a set of JE custom pistons,13 -14 to1, good rods , ARP bolts , Port the $hit out of the heads, Titanium vales , notch block for Intake valve , the wright S -Roller cam , Good fly wheel ,blow proof bel, t-10 or top loader , & spin it North of 9,000 rpm's !!! All part's do not need to be 60's , You Live across the pond , parts are not cheap & easy to get do it wrght first time , It will be more enjoyed then Parked waiting for parts ,
Man, if it wasn't for all the vintage Corvette eyewash I figure I gotta have, mine would be cheap as dirt, partially thanks to you, and to Willys Jim. But then at a 7000 rpm shift point, mines a little more realistic than all the usual HAMB driven hyperbole.
That was interesting...sadly i can't seem to find them.... Another auction i found was this. Could they be worth looking into?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Pro-S...ash=item3d2e88f7b1:g:kCYAAOSwImRYW~~R&vxp=mtr
Wierd....i get "0 results for 322369941576" Looking on ebay.com too.... But...probably nice pistons but $1500 is a little over my budget anyway
. Looking at the photos I see some differences there. Some used, and a few new too. The used ones have modification to the spark slots in the domes, in fact one was changed to direct the spark both ways. Looks like a new one has been slightly massaged on the flat of the valve relief, and a couple are new, as produced. With valve relief edges, domes and the spark slots massaged will they CC the same? Might not matter to you, depends on your level of thoroughness. Hard to say what kind of life they had, I wonder how the skirts on the used ones are dimensionally and appearance wise. Personally I like mutant55's thoughts. With the deck he recommended and 1.94 '461 heads @ 58CC's you will have plenty of compression and no tall dome blocking the spark and/or flame front.
You're absolutely correct.....looked a little more thorough and they're not that interesting any more... Well, problem is i want to use my 64CC 1.94 camel humps Heads are a b*tch to find here and used ones from your side of the pond is extremely expensive in shipping....
Standard bore 283 will give you 11.1 with 58cc's and around 10.2 with a 64 cc chamber. Even the bigger chamber gives a very respectable compression ratio. I might be mistaken, but I think '461 heads with 1.94 intakes are 58cc's, the 2.02's are 64cc because of the chamber wall being unshrouded for the bigger valve.
Ok, another thought for you all....maybe i'm throwing gasoline on fire here, but.... Actually stumbled upon a pair of 305 heads here in Sweden just 15 minutes ago...and dirt cheap too...$20! It's a pair of 14014416. Think they are 58cc, 1.84/1.50. Could they be worth spending some money on? 1.94/1.60? Not sure yet if i want them, as the double humps are important just for the looks....but they could make the CR-problem a little easier? Thoughts??
I'm not familiar with that casting but am sure someone here has experience with that cylinder head. That intake valve should be a great size for use in the 283 and you could always put a larger exhaust valve in if the application warranted. The early 1.94 heads were generally about 60cc's so the head you mention would yield very similar compression figures. The early 283 heads tended to run about 56-57 cc's so would yield a slight bit more compression. Contrary to what has been stated a flat piston is not going to make more than 9:1 compression with the cylinder heads in existence. You will need a portion of the piston to intrude into the combustion chamber for a compression ratio in the range mentioned. It is simple engine math. Here is a idea,you might consider looking for a set Powerforged TRW pistons in a acceptable oversized. These pistons as mentioned are heavy but very durable. What you will find is a piston with around .450 dome some of which you can mill off once you figured everything else out. Start now getting all of the other parts together to include the proper head gaskets for a small bore motor. You can use your heads and choose a camshaft knowing that you can achieve your desired desired static and dynamic compression figures because you're starting out with more compression than wanted to start and that is a good spot to be in with a small motor. As a side benefit you will lighten the piston a little which never hurts.
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