Technical 36 ford pick up window fuzzies? Anyone have info on how they're supposed to be?

maybe a exploded pic?


I've got the drake kit

 

Bump

 

What color should I paint it

 

Not sure what your question is? A few more details?

 

For the gl*** side of the granish mldg, yes? I use small stainless tig wire and bend up my own metal "staples". I make em long enough to handle easily going through drilled holes, nip off the excess and bend it over. The small wire buries easily into the fuzzy part, and of course never rusts if it gets wet. Some edges are painted black, some are bright. I like the bright.

 

I'm uncertain just exactly how screwed up my 36 doors are.
I'm not even sure I have the right kit.
Soooo
Well let's start with which pieces go where.
What does it look like installed

Here's the catalog pic of what I ordered.
Says Exact Copies of originals stuff too.
10 pcs or 5 pieces per door, easy peasy.


Here's another on line pic of another 35-37 pick up kit from a different vender.
It's more Similar (still different) to what I received. Supposedly for the same vehicle oh and 40 bucks cheaper.
14 pcs or 7 per door,


What's different is my 2 long straights skinny at the top of pic are not curved.

 

Here's macs kit.
Similar to what I received except
62 bucks cheaper .

Check the note on the bottom
Correct channels cut to length. Mine aren't

 

Been twenty years since I installed mine, but here goes....the deep one goes to the hinge side of the door,(front), the other solid one has screws to mount on the back side of the door. The reason for the deep one is, the window track on the gl*** has a ****on sticking out toward the inside of the door that catches the regulator when the window is lifted nearly to the top, moving the gl*** forward into the deep fuzzy. The last half turn of the regulator moves the gl*** forward and closes the window tight, conversely, the first half crank down slides the gl*** rearward and opens the window for a no draft, then the window slides straight down in the track. So...when the window is wound straight up, it will be open an inch at the front, till the last half crank moves the gl*** forward to seal the window. Clear as mud? To put the gl*** in the door, turn it sideways and slide it up inside the large opening in the bottom, then right the window inside the door.

 

Mine looks like the macs kit, the fuzzy with the slot and the hook on it go on the rear of the door, unscrew the track on the door, remove it and clip that piece onto it. All the rest are just fuzzies that fit tightly in the door, the big deal is making the regulator work right, you may have to bend it where the slot is to line up with the pin on the gl*** track. Looks like the deep fuzzy with the curve goes in the door at the rear at the top to allow the window to ride up into it before it moves ahead, the straight deep fuzzy goes in the front of the door at the bottom between the hinges. Sorry, I have no pics.

 

I quit trying to sort this out for a moment but it's back up on deck.

My doors are '36 without separate garnish- it's part of the door.

There's a deep piece of channel welded pretty good Into the front of the door between the hinges. But it's fuzzy stuff is long gone. So part of this kit must/should get it re fuzzyied or am I need of more stuff and parts. In the kit There's one piece per door like that, in each door there's 2 pieces like that.

Like a dumb *** I put bear claws in the doors and the deep piece at the rear will need all sorts of modification **** to go around it now. I found the old ones I took out a few years ago

 

on cars that i couldn't get "kits" or didn't want to wait i have taken regular window channel and peeled the "fuzzy" stuff off the track and glue it in, where needed. don't know if that helps to solve the problem.

 

I figured something like that.
You'd figure if Drake was adding on and charging $60.00 more they could give you a sheet of paper with a few freaking pictures

 

could be worse, they could have included, the ever helpful directions: disconnect battery, remove fuzzy, replace, repeat for other door.

 

The straight deep fuzzy goes in the front of the door down inside deep, the bent deep fuzzy goes in the back of the door at the top where the bend is, where your arm will hang out. the rest just friction fit in the track, because yours is heavily modified, refer to my earlier post as to how the regulator works.

 

Well like I said,
There is already one deep channel up front in each doors and they are welded in really good. That makes 2 old ones so far that I have. There's 2 in a box that I removed from the rear latch area to put in the bear claws. They were 2 spot welds on each one, that makes 4 old deep straight sections. The kit comes with 2 new ones.

The drake picture is clear as a bell "DING" and that's what I ordered.
The box had the same part number but all sorts of **** in there.

I need something to hold solid as a good starting point then work from there.
I've got me, who doesn't know what's supposed to be.
I've got a kit that don't match the catalog.
I've got doors that were bugared before I got them.
Then I bugared them some more with them damn latches.
I've got Intel from you that makes sense until I put it against my doors.
I've got deep curved channels that don't fit any curve on the door.

 

Well, I ain't driving out there to show you, I think you're at the end of the earth, or pretty close to the edge.......looks like you'll have to make them, Christ....you've made everything else.

 

Yeah I know right. Would be nice to avoid that once or twice.
Got 36 pick up doors - order 36 pick up window fuzzes and boom done next ! Nope.

 

i was told that some door winders just go up and down and most half tons tilt back for a vent window. was told this by a guy that was reproducting the door winders.

 

Okay, starting at the front of the door the lower gl*** run channel is the deep straight one. It will wedge into that channel you identified that is welded in real good (several spot welds top and bottom to the inside door skin) It should have a "Tee" tab that engages a slot at the top of the welded in channel. Look close, as the original run channel shell may still be in there so if it is, take it out. Above that the long "conventional" flexible metal core run channel slips into the upper window frame all the way to rear upper corner of the opening. I used a little 3M WS Adhesive for good measure but it may not need it, my kit also had a few screws to secure this piece, and there was evidence of screws used originally. Down the rear of the upper frame is the big deep piece with the curved end, curve up obviously. I put a little adhesive on this one where it contacted metal also. Again, make sure the old shell is not still in the door frame. It sounds like your rear lower may need some engineering but the original was that shallow metal channel you said you removed for the latch installation. The two shorter shallow run channels rivet or screw into those lower channels you removed and the frames can be screwed to the inner door skin if your latch allows.
For the "Fuzzies" at the bottom of the door gl***, if your doors are later '36 you'll see evidence of staple or screw holes in the flanges on the inner and outer skins where they would mount. As suggested above, locate the holes and make some stainless staples to attach the new fuzzies. The long one goes on the outer door skin and the two short ones go on either side of the grab handle on the inner skin. If you don't see any screw or staple holes then you should see 4 slots about 7/8" long, two inboard, two outboard. Those use the little tiny 1" long rubber bumpers and seem to indicate the doors are '35/early '36.
In any case, make sure those vertical flanges inside the lower gl*** opening on the inner and outer skins are straight, vertical and parallel BEFORE final paint! Yes those are words of experience.
I could get pictures but this truck just returned from upholstery and I can't think of what ***embled pictures would do for you, but tell me if you'd like to see them anyway.

 

We all like pictures
What the finished product looks like can only help.
Especially the back corner where it fits like ****

 

So if I'm getting what's being said - the configuration is like this?

That leaves these 2 ****ers



This configuration makes more sense on the floor but not in the door.

 

Yep, you had it right in the first picture, the two ****ers are the rear lower run channels and mount in the two structural channels you removed for the latch install. As stated above, the gl*** sits forward in the door when down and is shoved back into that deep upper channel when fully raised.
Don't for get the bumpers or fuzzies in the top of the door/bottom of the gl*** also.

 

I will get a couple pics this morning and try and post when I am in for lunch.

 

These two quoted statements below here seem to be conflicting ?

Of course I do not have a the regulator.
I'd really like to use the stock regulators. I like the back and forth vent operation , However the back and forth motion is more than likely going to be a problem when the window goes back and then down because of them damn latches. I wish I'd never had put them in. Not only is the window gl*** operation an issue now but so are the handles. I've been holding off on buying regulators until I see how the gl*** and latch work together. First thing is to get fuzzies in and try some cardboard gl***.

 

Yea, my mistake, lesdixia I think. The gl*** is pushed forward at the top of travel.

 

Here are pics of the installed channels and as you can see they don't fit or fill all the gaps like a new car, but Henry never said he was going to put a fine Swiss watch in every driveway. And a shot of the truck fresh out of the trailer coming home from upholstery late last week. I started a build tread a few months ago but didn't realize you couldn't park edits in a draft for more than a few hours and after loosing a couple days work I gave up. May try again when things slow down some.

 

Thanks !!! Yep I see
If you have posts that require lots of work, it's best not to do them on a Word do***ent on your computer then copy and past it in.

 

So "best not to do them on a Word do***ent"? I originally did the text and images in Word but the images would't transfer to the thread so I went back and edited the draft manually adding images and the whole thing had turned to S#!t the next time I had a chance to work on it? It's hard to teach an old dog a new trick.

 

For the fuzzies that run front to rear on the edge of the lower opening we've been using the fuzzie side of the stick on Velcro. Follows the contour and stays stuck thru any weather. I've got 3 cars like that in the ba*****t.

 

What a great idea! Thanks.