Blown 56 chevy gasser build for 2017 meltdown or bust

Lots and of re work.

Re mounted the radiator. The griffin radiator wasn't as wide as the stock one so I had 3/8 spacers between the mount and frame.

Today I cut them up and made them right.


Also redoing the moon tank mount I'm making the front section removable so the engine crane will go in further.

Also mounted the fuel block to the back part

 

Finished the tank mount. The front half is now removable. Also finished the engine limiters.






View attachment 3420294

Next is water pump
Steering box
Fuel filter

 

The fabricated parts look great. The way the tank is mounted might cause a problem. The fuel pump is a gravity feed. The tanks feed line is way below the pump inlet. It should be mounted above. If you extend a line from the bottom of the pump to the tank yours looks like its hitting the middle of the tank. Its alot easier to fix now than after its all painted.

 

Looking good keep it up and u will make the meltdown for sure. The tank doesn't have to be higher than the pump. He will just have to prime it to start it. 99%of injected front engine dragster have the tank completely below the pump. My coupe the tank isn't higher than the pump it's about half way like yours is now and it works just fine. If you ever dyno the setup out of the car tank location needs to be the same or it will change your pressures for sure. Looks like it will work just fine to me I've never had any issues with fuel in my coupe.

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That was the plan to run a small primer pump. I would lift it but like the way I looks poking through the bottom of the hood. Good tip on the dynoing with the tank at the same level. Making its going to be a stretch but I'm trying. I have a lot of sheet metal work to do. Going to buy a planishing hammer that should help with that. Plan on taking the motor in on Presidents' Day.

 

its not that it won't work as some of the tank is higher than the pump. the tank would need to be filled after each p***. mounting it higher would just be better. the dragsters have a long column of fuel that wants to move back under accelleration feeding the pump. they usually have the outlet positioned to the rear of the tank to match the lower placement. thats not the case here.

 

cranking the engine with the throttle wide open for a few seconds ( ignition off ) will prime the engine. no bottle needed.

 

When you pack the front wheels it will be higher.

 

Funny you say that I put the front end on yesterday and had the jack under the front axle tire were off the ground 8". Looked perfect. July is coming fast.

 

His tank should be pretty close to same level all the time though won't make any difference. It's a surge tank setup will fill up from the electric pump and tank probably mounted in the rear of the car. That's what the float bowls are for to stop filling the front tank.

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i saw the float bowl and i know what they are for i just didn't think about it that way. good call.

 

Hopefully it works just like that. I'm going to run a Weldon pump. My only questions are pump size and psi to run. My thought is that if my motor is 800hp I will need a pump that has that capacity. For psi I was thinking 6 to 8 as a typical gas engine would. Fuel tank size is something I'm debating too. I was thinking a 20 gallon tank to make. That tank full thought is 125lbs. I won't ever drag race with it full though.

Any of you guys have any thoughts.

 

If you ever think you may want to street more later then maybe 20.

 

The bigger the better I'll tell ya one thing mechanical injection is not known for fuel economy lol I think I might get 6-7mpg out of my coupe. My coupe holds 26 gal of gas it's a complete custom tank that is rite behind my seat and startles the rear end also. My coupe only has a aeromotive SS pump filling the surge tank. That pump is only good to 600hp but I figure the pump only has to kinda keep up. the surge tank holds enough fuel to make a p*** alone. I didn't ever plan to do any longer p***es than 1/4 mile so the pump in the rear isn't that critical to me. It keeps up just fine cruising down the highway.

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I run 6 pounds to the surge tank.

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One other issue I ran into - my Enderle fuel pump killed itself from dry starting when the tank was lower than the fuel level. Gene Adams looked at it and said if the tank is high and provides some fuel, then the first crank it will not be dry. But if you have the tank low and start it on a squirt bottle, you need to open the line and shoot WD-40 into the pump. (If it has sat for a week or two and you plan to just walk out and fire it off).

 

I really like what is going on here!
I have a question and I hope some of the senior members that actually ran or are running g***ers can tell me the answer.
Why on earth do blown g***ers run full length headers with collectors?
- a forced induction engine does not benefit much if any from exhaust pulses except at very low boost and RPM
-the longer pipes are typically heavier than a set of zoomies
- the routing is more complicated with a collector and its more of a challenge to get the tubes the same length.

 

Gas cl*** cars in the 60s had to have a collector could not run zoomies. Some ran something like a zoomie but had a piece of flat stock wrapped around the end and called it a collector.

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In grand haven Michigan for work this week.

Craigslist score never used fresh in the box


Saved me $150


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There's a Nelson Racing Engines youtube video where they dynod a blown alcohol small block Chevy and lost horsepower when they switched to zoomies.

 

I went through all their videos and didn't find anything of the kind and still does not answer my question.

This previous post is a far better explanation than yours.
"Gas cl*** cars in the 60s had to have a collector could not run zoomies. Some ran something like a zoomie but had a piece of flat stock wrapped around the end and called it a collector."

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Nice score on the main caps!

Good explaination about 'why' of collectors -

 

Thanks
Great video
What's going on with the 39 doojay I saw some blasting action going on.

 

Got the water pump mounted

 

Nice warm day in Chicago.
Got the steering box mounted
Had to spend some time cleaning up the Borgeson pitman arm.


Started on the alternator mount I've been thinking about this for a year nice to finally make it happen

 

Alternators in



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the drag link looks close so does the adjusting arm. it could just be the angle of the pic. did you try bouncing the car? as the car bounces the axle will move forward and backward along with up and down.
the shackles swinging back and fourth cause this. i ran into this once and had to relocate my alternator. i like the welded nuts on the shafts.

 

It's the angle of the picture. Il take some better ones next time I was In a hurry. It's close to the pitman arm but there shouldn't be and issues even in worse case scenarios. The nut make adjustments easy. I plan on chroming all the drag links and small linkage so the nut will hopefully prevent chipping the chrome.


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I wasn't explaining anything. It's the video where the engine destroys the dyno room. But I did ask Jim Oddy why he was running collector headers instead of zoomies on his '33 Willys AA/G car when he had the small Chevy engine in it. He said it made no difference. Now if you think you're smarter than Jim Oddy, you must be a genius. If it makes you feel better, he does have zoomies on the Hemi he replaced the Chevy with. But I think it has more to do with packaging than anything else.