There is no room for a brake booster in my '53 and I am in a quest for the brake shoes that will reduce the pedal pressure as best as possible (for my wife, lol.) Have researched NOS Asbestos, Carbon Metallic & Kevlar as supported by Jeff. Did I miss any candidates? Any suggestions on the best way to go for less pedal pressure and fade? Tom
Because she let me put in an Ardun, I put in an AOD, Electric Power Steering and A/C for her! Now better brakes for her for the time(s) she may drive it!
mpbrakes.com has these. I am using a single in my 55. Here is a page from their site. The next logical question is, “How does it work?” There are two versions available: single and dual diaphragm units. The single diaphragm unit works well in a disc front and drum rear brake system. The dual diaphragm unit is designed for a four-wheel disc brake system. Vacuum is still needed to operate the system so a vacuum source, such as the engine, is plumbed into the booster using a conventional vacuum hose. From there, brake lines are plumbed from the master cylinder to the booster unit and then onto the remaining parts of the brake system. This gives the proper ***ist needed along with the comfortable feeling of a power brake booster. Single Diaphragm Remote Brake Booster – BS1010K
At this point, I am exploring non booster alternatives. I am using a dual outlet master cylinder with good results but now want to use the best brake lining. The booster may come later.
Have not researched any of this but I have been hearing more about guys using electric brakes on there rods, wonder if you could convert them to the car?
For drum brakes Advance Auto has Ceramic lined shoes for 1952-54 Fords they will decrease Brake fade and drum wear about 20-25 % over semi-metallic if you have not done so already do the self adjuster upgrade.
They don't list them for a 1952-54 Ford but they are the same as a 1967 Mustang 289 part#'s are S154 Front and S151 rear, READ ALL of this: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/self-adjusting-brakes-for-a-54.899224/ If you order online Advance will discount 20%
The Porterfields would be a superior product to the Advance,we once had a musclecar brake company listed in the FAQ but they folded. Thanks for bringing these guys up, to get the Kevlar which is also used in HD Trucks some commercial clutch and brake rebuilders can reline your old shoes with that material.
Talked with Poterfield today and they are very high on their RD4 lining. Although much more expensive, it seems that they are superior as you say. "Send 'em back if you don't like them." More as I proceed.
Here is what I am looking at putting in my '54. 'By using 2 small manual race quality master cylinders this Wilwood pedal creates line pressures equal to or greater than ***isted systems. You also gain tremendous brake “feel” and the safety of never losing your brakes because of engine failure.' www.fabquest.com/wilwood-super-pedal-dual-master-brake-pedal-***embly.html
Kevlar brake shoes: https://www.performanceonline.com/1948-66-ford-f-1-f-100-high-performance-front-brake-shoes/ Use all the self adjusting parts here: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+v8,1332683,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+shoe,1688 So as far as your counter guy is concerned you have a 1966 Ford F-100
Looks great but will not work for me without major mods because of electric power steering mounting. So far, Dave's, Drop em n Stop em, master cylinder and disc brakes do not require as much pedal pressure as stock brakes. Seems if I want power brakes, ABS's electric master cylinder is my best solution. Need to hear more about it from others though before spending the $1k the ABS system costs. Then, I am hearing dissatisfaction with their customer service. That concerns me.
so ... finally getting finish with the front suspension, now I have questions on the brake self adjust- I was taught by my old man that the "cable always goes on the rear shoe. If so, than the "star" wheel is installed backwards on one side so that the actuater(clicker) will reach the wheel, but the star wheel wont be accesseable thru the backing plate adjustment hole????????????????
You will have to drill a new adjustment hole. On my 56 I was able to get to it with a small screwdriver. Just barely though.
Like Okiedokie, I have a single Hydrovac unit that I mounted under the car near the driveshaft front. Cannot see it at all, and easy to mount. Make a couple new lines and a vacuum source and you're all set. Mine is all drum brakes and self adjusting