Technical Bolts needed for engine hoist&stand

Merge this with the Bolt Hoarder thread and you'll have all the answers you need.

 

pounded my head on the keyboard......what size band aids will I need

 

For some strange reason ,the title to a movie pops up in my head.."There Will Be Blood"...?

 

Here's the correct engine stand



the chain attachment to the engine is fun on these things...as the book says, "Eye bolts provide a convenient means for lifting the engine...."

 

I was thinking the same thing.....Anyone have an answer?

 

the flathead mounts on the exhaust manifold bolt holes, eh? not available on the inline OHV six block.

 

I didn't want to post info about using the bellhousing for mounting in the stand, fearing lots of negative replies, however Jim's latest post from the manual shows the method I've used for decades. My "adaptor plate" is a lot smaller.

 

"Type" 4 wheels not the typical 3 ....geesh..

 

I could use grade 8 bolts at the coil holes and wrap a chain around the intake, somehow.

 

i wanted to take a photo today of the bracket but i got busy. i will try again tomorrow.

 

We've used 2 heavy fan belts around the rocker arm shaft, making it easy to balance. One doubled in front, one in the rear.

 

Take it back and get the 2000# stand. You're going to need the support.

 

Make one. Some of the flathead guys make their own.

 

To pull the engine, you don't say how much is coming out. Are u taking the trans too? I don't ever pull one with a trans but I have done it from my 40 Chev and LSR roadster( they are both GMC's). I use one of those adjustable centering devices and just 2 points. The last exhaust hole at the rear and I remove the water neck at the front and use the right side one, Both are 3/8" course thread. I make the chain tight on the surface with flat washer against the chain sometimes both sides. This has worked for 40 years at least 25 times maybe closer to 50 times. The ability to turn a crank and keep it level was a godsend when those came out. The leveling device is not as long as the engine so I use folded towels to protect the valve cover or just take it off. Good luck.

 

I already pulled the front clip , transmission , starter , dizzy , plugs , coil , gen, and of course all of the wiring.
Thanks for the advice on locations for mounting the chain.

 

If you are going to get a better stand you might consider picking up a couple of the heavy duty rigging straps as well. I use those to move my 235 around and they are easy to use as they have reinforced loops on both ends. The ones I bought were purple. No chains needed.

 

Ok I removed the engine last night.I used a combonation of straps and chains.no damage to the engine.
THANKS !!

 

no pictures? dang....after all that work we did....

 

Yeah it's almost like he wanted us all to shut up after he asked his question!

 

I forgot to take pictures. We had just hooked up to the motor(gmc270) and were going to hoist out of my truck when Buddies wife showed up with his kids. Had me concerned about a 2&4 year old hanging around in the garage ,with gas& antifreeze all over the place. His wife thought He was "just playing around" with me and my truck???

 

Like we needed any distractions while removing the engine....

 

And never used the engine stand. I was just removing this one and taking parts off for the machinist . I totally forgot about the stand ;with me getting onto my buddy about the kids wanting to play with the tools laying around then tracking oil in my house I couldn't take the " family" home fast enough.

 

You guys are going to hate this. But many years ago when I bought my first GMC, the wrecking yard gave me their lift tool that they used on GMC and Chevy six engines. It has holes that the rocker cover bolts go through. Didn't even remove the rocker cover. Worked well enough that I made my own, And I still have it. Piece of angle iron and a coil spring. I also drilled mine to pick up the head bolt holes if the head was off. And I have drilled it for other engines through the years. So I know it's scary. And nobody would use such a thing. But it has pulled plenty of Jimmies with out dropping one yet.

 

that is what duck tape is for..........

 

As long as I am doing this I thought I would post a couple of no welding lifting things I used. The angle iron again with big holes to put the chain through and slots the chain slides into and stays put. Bolts to any head bolts. The pipe with the chain and strap is for Chrysler Hemis. Allows engine to be lifted with valve covers, distributor, and intake on. End of chain goes to water cross over front head and block off on rear of the other head. Pretty nice.

 

Heres a nice stand for the looks of it.
Lots of PO people at the sales pitch tho.

Did u see this?
I almost bought it..almost.

 

I have used a H.F. engine stand for 10 years with every kind of engine on it. Just take a piece of 2x 1/4 flat bar . Install it at a 45 degree angle from the bottom piece to the upright and it will hold a concrete filled big block Chevy. I just did a 390 FE no sweat. Just use good bolts and washers. I have sets for Ford Gm and LS motors that I bought from Fastenal. Keep them wrapped together in my toolbox so I don't have to hunt bolts for the stand. I welded the strap on my stand ,but you could drill and bolt if you don't have a welder. This is my other stand without the diagonal holding an FE.

 

Nice, and thanks for the pictures[emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I too used to use a 'come along' device for lifting engines (mainly small blocks, but not Hemis!) until I was severely rebuked for doing so. Having looked at it with a critical eye I never did it again. Experiences may vary!

Chris