I have been focusing my attention on other projects as of late. As of about two weeks ago I decided to get back into my garage to get the 56 customline on the road. I was initially thinking of going with a 5.0 EFI system on it. I even purchased a bob Drake fuel tank for EFI it is a very high quality piece, and I have a complete 5.0 EFI system. Instead I just opted to stay carbureted. I installed an AOD, and a Lokar column shift linkage kit, and a Lokar TV cable. As for the rear end I am using a Ford Explorer unit with disk brakes and 4.10:1 limited slip that has had the long side cut down to fit the short axle. I have 17X8 American racing torq thrust wheels with 255 45 17 Kumho Ecsta tires with 1/4" wheel spacers. on the front I have 17X7 torq thrusts with 205 40 tires. The front needs more tire I am thinking about going with 225 40's. This is the second time I have installed an AOD into a cl***ic car, and both times I had the same problem after initial installation the car would only go into first and reverse. The first time I installed an AOD it was in a '68 mustang and the rebuilder just sent me out a new one, and it was a fantastic transmission for many years. before I purchased this transmission I drove the car it was in and it drove great, but that was 2 years ago. What would cause the AOD to only shift to Reverse and First. like I said I have performed this swap before and The last swap I did drove for abut 6 years and 90,000 miles flawlessly. I used the pressure port and set the TV cable correctly. Here are some pics. Let me know what you think of the stance. I like it now, but when I get in the car it lowers about 2.5 inches. The springs front and rear are very soft. I have new shocks front and rear. I know I will need new springs. Any suggestions on where to get leafsprings would be appreciated. Thanks Chris
If the AOD has sat for a while they have a habit of the governor sticking,take it out and give it a generous cleaning with Brake-Kleen more info here too : http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730
Thanks papa. I have an appointment with the transmission shop tomorrow. If they can fix the transmission quickly I will take it to the body shop for new floors and paint. I still need to block it again. The body is very straight. I have a dilemma though. The front crossmember is badly corroded. I will need to replace it, or go with a mustang II front end. My wife's ex is a metal fabricator and he said he could fab me up one from drawings he has for around $800.00. His company make SCORE trucks suspension components. I would still have to come up with brakes and shocks and springs. Do you think that I should go with the mustang II or just replace the front crossmember and put on an aftermarket brake kit. Let me know what you think Thanks
JeffB2 said: ↑ 1955-56 Ford Cross-member plans: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=15875 Here is the updated new link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/55-56-ford-crossmember-spec-sheet-001.174642/ Also this member posted awhile back that he is making them again for sale.
Ready made's are here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-F...ash=item237a7b3740:g:tnoAAOSw241YaUyz&vxp=mtr
The stock suspension is actually pretty good. I don't think you would benefit from a mustang II that much. How bad is the crossmember? Can it be repaired or need complete replacement.
Not sure if this is on purpose or not but your rear shackles are flipped down in several of the side profile pictures.
I haven't looked at the Mustang II kits, but I wouldn't think they replaced the old crossmember anyway, only the a-arms, so the crossmember would still be needed.?.? Don't know, just thinking out loud here. Unless you're building a pro-street, these old suspensions are quite good. jmho.
As far as th crossmember goes. It is almost completely rusted through where the p***enger A-arm connects. An there are a few places where it is rusted through. As far as the rear shackles go. The previous owner had the car lowered with 4" blocks. He even modified the transmission tunnel so the rear end wouldn't hit the floor. And for some reason the leafsprings are only 2 leafs. The car can barely support it's self. I don't know if flipping the shackles helps lower the car or not but when I bought it the exhaust tips were flat from dragging on the ground.
I was leaning towards replacing the crossmember just for the simplicity. I want to get this car finished and enjoy it. Thank you 56 tudor post
Flipping the shackles back to factory position will lower it about 2". Found that out from experience.
I got the transmission working. The governor was stuck and the valves in the valve body were very sticky. Now it shifts up through the gears fine, but when coming to a stop It almost stalls because the transmission isn't downshifting fast enough. almost like if you don't clutch a manual before you come to a stop. the car shudders and RPMS drop and then it shifts down and the TC releases (starts to slip) I also got my crossmember and floor boards I will be installing those within the next couple of weeks.
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/aod-2-stage-pac-80-up/ and https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/sleeve-kit-aod-throttle-inc-plug-sleeve/
had a 700R4 like that. It was the converter staying locked up. That ****** had a solenoid that controlled the converter. Not familiar yet with the AOD but sounds like the same thing.I think the AOD has a mechanical locking converter, so is it the converter itself or another valve sticking that controls oil flow?
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