I'm putting new Edelbrock Aluminum heads on the wife's '46 Ford. The engine is otherwise stock. What are the recommendations for head gasket manufacturer. I was looking at: Fel-Pro 7548B - Fel-Pro Head Gaskets Head Gasket, Steel Core Laminate over their Copper. Fel-Pro 1056 - Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets Head Gasket, Copper/Fiber, Not sure which to use. What have you found works best?
Was just told by a V8 Ford club guy that Edelbrock recommends only copper gaskets. Just didn't say why. A friend is on the Edelbrock tech line, I'll call him and see what he says.
After putting on your Edelbrock heads,be sure and visit your local boat shop and purchase a "sacrificial anode". You have a cast iron block,aluminum heads,and probably a br*** radiator. Having these dissimilar metals will cause your Edelbrock heads to develop "soft spots or mushiness" over a period of time.The reason for the anode is so these uglies or nasties in the water supply system(caused from the dissimilar metals) will "attack" the sacrificial anode and leave the aluminum unharmed.
Spoke with Edelbrock and they no longer recommend ONLY copper gaskets. The gaskets they sell are a composite like a Felpro. They also say not to use any coating on the gaskets. They say either gasket is fine. I used an anode on my coupe with limited success. Still ate my Edmonds head and then the aluminum water neck when I switched to a V8. I have just changed to Evans water-less coolant on the coupe and hope this works. Will try some of the Lucas product on my wife's car and distilled water.
I used copper gaskets with no sealer on them. Head studs are recommended and a few re-torque sessions wouldn't hurt a bit.
Edelbrock Tech guy says not to use anything on the gaskets. I have new head studs to use and will re-torque a few times.. Thanks
I used new edelbrocks with composite gaskets. No copper seal spray or Any of that. The new edelbrock heads are CNC made. So you know they will be flat and straight. Just make sure your deck it also true and flat. I used arp studs. I put the studs in with arp thread sealer. Then I put anti seize around the stud from the deck to bottom of threads on the stud. Make sure you don't get any anti seize on the threads. Then I use arp thread oil and torque them baby's down. Re torque 3 times after each run of the engine. You won't have a problem. The anti seize will come into play later on down the road if you ever need to take the heads off. You will need longer head studs for the edelbrock heads.
the speedy bills tech tips recommend spray on sealant and a different torque pattern. http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/910-15310.pdf love to hear feedback on this as l am also about to bolt my heads on
I didn't know you got married Bob, Congrats is in Order. Oh, BTW use Cyclone next build .... We'll talk soon, Kevin
THANKS! Yup, got married on the starting line at Irwindale Speedway, July 2 during the "Night Of Destruction". 50 hot rods, 200 friends and family as well as 4000 of our newest friends.. It was great and still is.
I wish Sharon and I would've known, we'd of helped celebrate as well. We should get to for a dinner soon. Congrats to Peg and you, wishing you the best. Your pal, Kevin & Sharon.
It was not suppose to be as big as it got. Randy Kerdoon from KNX radio carried it on the news and on Talking about cars. Here is the video from Randy for his show: Listen to the vows https://www.periscope.tv/KNXRan****rdoon/1gqGvMVVOYgKB?autoplay&t=8
Congratulations, folks! Now, back to gaskets. I used to use sealer on FH head gaskets, but I don't anymore. I found that a properly prepared ***embly doesn't need it, and all it does is make things tougher down the road.
On water. My sons race car is not allowed use anything but water. With last yrs rebuild we ran only distilled water and tearing down the engine over the winter we found ZERO evidence of rust with only the intake and water pump being aluminum. It is a closed system with 30# cap and recovery. Distilled water works...
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