This project started in July when I found this car in a shed and it has been their for 50 yrs. I bought the car mostly for the flathead but after I seen what a chopped shoebox looked like I thought I'd give it a shot. I am a State Corrections Officer and Prof. Taxidermist. My hotrod building experience none. Everything I've learned, I've learned from this sight and a couple others so I will thank you now for all your experiences and recommendation to other builders. I was given a f150 with a 302 (powerplant). I was also given an s-10 frame(front clip to gain power steering disc brakes etc. This is a budget build. I purchased a T5 ****** and at this point I'll be mocking up motor/******/power steering before separating body from frame. Any good info on the motor mounts ****** cross member.
Looks mighty good so far! I understand the 302,the flathead will be pricey to rebuild ,but have you considered not cutting up the stock ch***is? It didnt cost me much to rebuild the brakes on my shoebox .
The S-10 clip is already on and welded. This clip was more sweat equity but I cant fork a lot of money to rebuild original and still not have disc brakes or power steering. I have $275.00 in every component to redo the hole front end of S-10. Thanks for your comments I am a rooky and learning as I go and cant get enough, Loving every challenge in this build.
Curious how did the clip work with the front sheet metal? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. Last shubox I did was using the original ford stuff with flipped spindles and cut coils. Would have loved something a little more modern but didn't......
Cool project. Are you keeping the flathead, or going with the 302? I'm curios, because I'm looking to get a T-5 to go with my flathead. I'm gonna watch this show either way. Way to go on the chop!
Putting 302 in as the flatty is locked up. When I tore the motor apart their were mice nestings clean done in the crank. Anybody got any concoctions to put flatty in while I work on this project. Maybe it will free up if I soak it for a while.(That's what she said). I appreciate all the comments and questions Thank you
Great work so far - possibly look at sites like speedwaymotors.com for universal engine mounts - maybe hit the wrecking yard for a 5 speed crossmember out of a S10 - I know that a S10 rearend bolted in to a '51 Ford - be sure to get rearend out of truck that still has the id code sticker on the glove box door for rear gear ratio Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Is the s10 rear strong enough for the 302/t 5 ******? I was thinking of putting a 90-92 ranger 8.8 but if the s10 rear is strong enough and the right width I might put it in instead.
That looks like it may be a Merc Flathead. If it is it is a 255 w/4" stoke crank. Be sure to save that. Heads will have 8CM or similar for Merc. 4 bolt carb and intake is Merc. All good stuff. As far as something to soak in, animal food grade mol***es mixed with water makes a good soaking solution. Non toxic and can be re-used over and over. Get a big tub of some kind. Mine sits outside and water evaporates so every now and then I add water. Get a 5 gal. can of mol***es at a feed store. Last one I got was about $25. Google it for mix ratio and directions. Doesn't matter if you forget and leave something in there, no damage. I have used it on gas tanks, rusty stuff, you name it. Did a motorcycle gas tank for a friend that was clear full of gunk, weighed a ton! Cleaned it all out like new and didn't touch the factory paint! Dave
Thanks for the info Dave, I have a feed mill less than a mile away, probly get mol***es fairly cheap.
If you are keeping the ch***is stock use Trans dapt motor and transmission mounts, they are inexpensive and fit well. If it were me I would sell the S-10 clip and buy a '50 Ford specific disc brake kit if I was after disc brakes. Well I probably wouldn't personally but that is what I would suggest. The difference being is that I don't stuff birds but I can build a car from a lug nut. No offense intended.
Great job Tom C, got ta give you credit to have the guts to go for it. I'd still be thinking about it.
I never understand why guys are in such a hurry to clip a shoebox, but it's not my car so go for it. Chop looks good, keep us posted.
Rocky and Toqik I'm glad you asked yesterday about front sheet metal. I fitted the inner fender today it needed a little trim at the bottom to clear the upper control arm. here are few pictures before and after.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND IF I WERE YOU I WOULD STAY CLOSE TO THE PHONE BECAUSE WHEN NASA OR PLAYGIRL FINDS OUT WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH NUTS THEY WILL LIKELY BE OFFERING YOU A JOB.
Already done work for the FED couldn't for the life of me tell you what it was, just part numbers and extremely close tolerance ***anium. The machining was easy enough but being locked away for 12 hours at a stretch was a pain in the ***. I guess you are familiar with the being locked away part of it. It paid OK but I'm probably not any more interested in working for the fed again than I am high maintenance broads. Good luck with the more door. looks like you got it handled.
Ive been working on the clutch/brake pedals. The f150 I got the motor out of also had a pedal ***embly. I adapted this to my shoebox firewall as I will have power brakes and a hyd. clutch. Believe it or not the f150 steering shaft and the s10 steer shaft fit right together. Look at pictures it went together fairly well but I wish I new whether or not their is a smaller brake booster with the same bolt pattern as the f150. This one will work but I'll have to trim the inner fender a little.
I agree with HRP , he may be a rookie but that looks like the work of an old master (i.e. Gene Winfield, George Barris, **** Dean etc..). Great job [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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