Hello everyone, I finally got started on my little 33. The frame is boxed, 8in rear, rack an pinion, 4 in drop axel with 11 in disc brakes up front. Going to run a 302 with C4 auto, nothing to fancy. The body and fenders are all steel with no rust and nearly perfect with just a few dings on the fender, bed needs some love. I'm not going to chop it, leaving it unmolested.
Looks like a fun project - what type of suspension . . . hopefully something us traditional folks like!
Nice another 33 going to be cool i would ditch the rack idea tho go traditional leave the rack for the a arm guys imho John
Thanks for the input always appreciate another person's view point....but I have already gone the rack and pinion route.
So what the story on the new York chiller going in? Worked most of my career for York/JCI as a chiller guy so I geek out when I see Caribbean Blue. Don't recognize the unit though. Screw? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thought that was some sort of rat rod sculpture being put together out of plumbing parts. Started scanning for a saw blade to be booger welded somewhere.. [emoji41] thankfully this pic appears to be non related? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I ALWAYS recognize York blue, I just don't recognize which chiller that is. It's bugging the crap out of me. Nerd. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What's the story on the almost-chop? Did it get cut before you got it? How are you getting it squared away to stock dimensions?
Not being picky but that looks to be an Olds trailing arm suspension like my 46 sedanette going by differential brackets. If so they were originally upper and lower rubber isolators. The way it is set up is the weak link in the chain IMO. You need more support across the top to tie the legs together. The OEM Olds frame featured an x-member with forward support bracket that captured both trailing arms in double sheer, connecting both rear x-member legs and minimising torsional twist. I envisage one wheel going up and the other going down, putting opposing strain on the individual attaching points. I'd gusset the brackets on the top despite them being in double sheer. All torsional twist will be via a single point being the gearbox support. Here's my frame (Model 76) and how I did a friend's 42 Chevy PU with an 46 Olds (Model 66) X-member, I still had to fabricate a panhard bar. A lot more rigidity. Only saying this as our rules are a lot more stringent that yours. I've kept all my old trailing arm suspension and supports for my next project. Also that rear wheel needs to be centred in fender opening, could be photo but it looks biased to the front.
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