Took the advice of experts here and drilled a few small holes thru my hinges for re-hanging doors when the time came and it worked out fine, mostly. The driver's door on my '54 Kaiser sedan must have gotten caught by the wind at some point and upon dis***embly I found two nails that had been sandwiched between the hinge and the door post on the lower hinge only. I measured an 1/8" thickness of the nails and made a shim with the same thickness, but, naturally the last door... just like the last nut you're trying to loosen... won't cooperate. I'm using painters tape on the door and fender edges and paint sticks in the gap. Door sags and needs to come forward. Wish I were good on door geometry... I need to find an old-timer locally who's good at old car anatomy! Also, I've loosened the front fender and do have some wiggle room there, but all the You Tube videos I've watched don't address my problem. I'm considering suicide..
Some people got real problems. Post up some pictures and pay attention to what action cause what motion. Nails can act like a wedge and a wedge can move different than a shim
And it's easier to fit the doors to the main body, before you put the fenders on. Some cars it's necessary to remove the fenders. Not what you want to hear
Always think of the hinges working in an "X" across the door. If you pull out the top hinge the bottom of the rear of the door will move inward and so on. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When working in a Body Shop while in High School many, many, well a long time ago, a old time body man told me: "start from the back, you cannot move the quarter panel so adjust the door to the quarter panel, then move on to the front door or front fender and adjust the fender or the front door to the rear door". On a lot of old cars the hinges are worn out and need new pins or bushings. The bottom hinge is the primary one, for it carries the weight and the top hinge guilds the door in place.
The Jalopy Journal
