Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Absolute perfect accommodations mate!

 

Cave man Floor pan.
It's not quite finished yet but no bad for a days efforts and fitting in into the car 30 or 40 times
Bent on the floor, over a beam.
Tacked a 1" round to the beam, and bent it over.



Little differential bump

 

Working on inserts for my tractor grille turned track nose. Far from perfect but hopefully close enough with a little more work.

 

That differential bump looks great. What did you use to make it?

 

Finishing the firewall finally


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Yep. It's time to switch to a slapper. Here's a youtube video that explains how they work. (skip ahead to 1:10 in the video if you want to go direct to the slapper instruction)

Make sure you use a dolly with as close to the contour of the hubcap as you can get. It makes the slapper work best.

 

28,000 light taps

Each.

Fixed planishing hammer with just light wash over pressure.

 

For those I'd use a pedistal hammer. For more contoured caps I make dies out of UHMW and use it in my pullmax style machine



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I gotta come hang out with you for a couple days

 

I haven't really done any sheet metal work in a while.
Got a chance to do some last week.
Made a patch for my Model T project.
Unfortunately, I probably won't be able to get back to the project till after GNRS.






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Nice work. I noticed that one has fewer foot prints on it.

 

Haha, at least for now.

 

Saw Randys pressing die so i thought i would post up my little effort. I hope it works. I think the tonnage required with using rubber pad forming technique would be 171 ton = 171 square inches. Please correct me if im wrong.
Needs finishing/smoothing.
I may have to back this die up with a thicker steel block.

 

Well, I need to make a little progress on a 16 gauge fender, so the highly precise stand for the Laser Level was used. We have about 13-3/4" difference in height from back edge of fender to front edge. So Laser is set at 13-3/4 above the table, with heights verified to all four corners of the table.





Prior to trimming the front of the fender we had measured some reference marks to the front edge for locating the new cut line..





Adding those lower edge marks back on our fender patch, we adjusted the height of the fender front for the laser to match those marks by sliding our jack stand fixture around inside the fender until we had the correct height. Hey, this is technical stuff!








And traced the laser mark with the sharpie...





Initial cut to remove the bulk was done with the Milwaukee shear, the final was done with Midwest Shears. I figured slower = more precise...

 

Now you are getting in using MAGIC to get them done like that.

 

Robert, just turn up that laser and you'll save time . LOL
Looks real nice like all your work . Blue

 

Thanks!

Doing a test fit of the Biederman fender....





Was going to do a little bit of touch up on the front weld seam, needs more shape..

The fender spans about 53" at the bottom, where it wouldn't fit in the wheeling machine sitting on the floor. We added a lift kit under the legs, except for one which needed to be open under the leg..





in process....






Needed to wrap the wire edge....





Note the genuine John Deere anvil...





The flange was hammered over using various hammers and dollies (anvils) with the final wrap tightened up with a pair of vise grips modified with smooth jaws...

 

I liked the use of the laser to get the fender edge right. I used a laser to lay out the tapered checkerboard lines on the inside of my '46 truck hood and also the air box. Laid the hood upside down on the floor and hung the laser from the ceiling.

 

Quick track nose... needs to be metal finished after the cars done being built

 

beautiful

 

More progress on the Biederman fenders, the rear flange is cut out of some 12 gauge steel and tacked in place..











This flange bolts to the front of the running board..





The front mounting flange is cut out of 12 gauge steel and tacked in place..








This flange bolts to the filler panel behind the front bumper.








With them tacked in place, we'll do one more test fit and then finish the welds.

 

Beautiful work on the nose! Should be a cool car.
Tom

 

Test fit the Biederman front fender to insure we had no clearance issues..





Rear flange to running board:

















Front flange to bumper filler panel:























Looks like we're ready to finish welding...

 

The left hand rear quarter for my scratch built 28 A roadster, has since been dressed out and the right hand side made....came out much better than this one. Just making all the bits and will assemble them one day, this is just a backup project for when there's hold ups on my Desoto pickup

 

The flanges were TIG welded in place, welds dressed, and then worked to remove the remnants of the old filler panel. The old spot welds were removed using a cut off wheel in a die grinder. When the upper panel gets thin, the heat turns it blue. When you see shiny metal again, you have found the second layer, so stop grinding!







This video explains the process a bit better...






Next to clean all the rust that was hiding between the layers. A tight squeeze!







The filler panel we fabricated was positioned, and drilled for some 1/8" cleco's. Then another test fit:

 

Sometimes you just need to screw off in the shop all day. So while the new hire continued with media blasting, I turned my attention to this "new" hoop for the Watervliet planishing hammer that just showed up.. This square version is somewhat rare, ie: hard to find, but I had a particular location in mind..





The Baileigh power hammer has some threaded holes on the left side for their own version of a planishing hammer mount, but I just didn't have the funds laying around for their version. So lets see what we can do with Old Faithful...








Drum sander does wonders in pipe fitment, and it sure was easier to TIG with a nice tight fit...






































All we need now is paint and a pedal..













.

 

Spent today hosting a Pullmax Workshop for some of the guys from the VA HAMB. OJ Higgins recently took delivery of a gargantuan Trumpf universal machine (a Pullmax on Steroids) and wanted a down and dirty on how these machines could be put to use. So OJ and a few other VA guys stopped by today and for a sample to use, ClutchDumpinDan brought by a tail pan from his 52 Chevy that was in dire need of rust repair.. We found a piece of 18 gauge cold rolled steel large enough to do the trick, so Dan cut it in half just in case we needed to do this twice...








Dies made for the universal tool holder in the Lennox Nibbler





Profile check...





Test sample...





Our new panel ready to run through the dies...





Step detail





Tipping the leading edge..





Dan takes a twinkie break





Videos....












Comparing new to old...





Rusty seal joggle on the old panel...





The new one...








Adding some bead details to change things up a bit...








Comparison....





Fancy tool for finishing the bead ends...

 

Why have I never thought of that fancy bead end tool.... damn it so simple...

 

Hey....patent pending......hoofs off!

 

Good looking work, Robert, you're the master for sure!