Technical out with the torque tube 1953 chevy

For now the 235 runs and I what to keep it and the 3 speed. I want to get the car lower starting with the rear. To keep it moving I don't want to mess with the front...yet. I put 3' blocks on it but didn't think it was low enough. I'm thinking 4 link on a 70's Camaro rearend.

All that said, What do I need to do to marry the original 3 speed to the rearend? Is there a kit or will a drive shaft just slide in? If so will the Camaro drive shaft fit the 3 speed (after cutting it down)?

Thanks-
The NFG

 

You'll have to change the trans to open drive also. Requires a different bell housing and a little clutch linkage work.

 

There are some very informative Posts on the Chevy Talk Forum.

 

I'm in the middle of doing this on my 1947 chevy fleetline. You need a bell housing from a late 235 I have a 57 and a trans from the same era. The rearend is all about the length I got a 1955 car rear.
Also there is this adapter for your trans but it cost a grand Hope this helps out.

 

Ouch!!!! on the $1k! Looks pretty good though!

 

It really dose look like a nice piece.

 

That's a lotta beans for a temp fix gonna have to think about this one


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Faint and fall backwards. Never heard of that thing.

 

I've done several of these...mostly with the T5 conversions. However, I did do a '50 hardtop that the owner wanted to retain the 3 on the tree but change to a 10 bolt with better gearing. I used a '48-'62 truck or '55-'62 car 235 bellhousing. These have the standard "muncie/saginaw " bolt pattern. I used a '55 and newer three speed that was already open drive and they bolt right to the bellhousing.

The issue that I ran into is that the clutch fork is about 2" lower between the car and truck bellhousings. Also, there was some modifications to getting the shift linkage working.

4x4 s10 rears and late 60's/early 70's camaro rear ends work well for these. Also, you have to offset the alignment pin on the spring perches 2-1/4" unless you are buying aftermarket springs.

If you need any pics of bellhousings or measurements let me know. I have at least one of every 216/235 bellhousing as I use them for my T5 adapters that I make.

 

The info below is listed from the
website of Valley Custom.
For my money I would stick with what you have, until the time comes for the rear end conversion, then you can add a later bell housing ( up to '62 ) and ****** to your six, as I did.
One thing for you to keep in mind.
With the torque tube rear ....... and that torque tube rear being lowered, you stand the chance of draining gear lube from the rear and transferring the gear lube to the ******, or vice versa, if your torque tube bushing seal is not good.

Valley Custom Open Drive Conversion
Fits Chevys from late 20s through to the early 50s
Developed by Valley Custom to easily convert your early Chevy to open drive for ease of low ratio diff conversion.
When ordering you will need to specify weather your torque tube has 10 tooth or 17 tooth spline shaft.
Introductory special $999 each.

 

Is it not possible to just swap out the tail housing on the 3 speed with something like a tri 5 Chevy 3 speed to work with a drive shaft?


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Sadly, no. We would have been doing it 40 years ago.

 

Yes right after posting I was looking and I guess the $1000 fancy adapter is the quick expense way.

What about jumping to a power glide are there any "easier/cheaper" solutions


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How do you tell the difference between the truck and car bell. I was unaware of the difference in the clutch fork and I'm working on this right now. Also do you have any advice or tips on the shift linkage I haven't gotten that far yet. Sorry for hijacking your thread @brooksinc1976 checkout ch***is engineering Inc for all the kits for this job. I got a rearend kit and it's really nice quality.

 

No problem more questions the better. Right now I'm all stock except for fat man spindle drops and 3 inch drop blocks. I'm just trying to figure out what's the best way to get from there to updated suspension and an LS swap.


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I've heard about using a T5. What does it take to do so?

 

So is the truck bell housing or the car bell housing closer to original?

 

The two are mostly the same only real difference is the truck bell has the foot starter set up on it. What innliner is talking about is the early 216 and 235 bells are different from the latter 235 bells. I didn't ealize the clutch Fork setup is a bit higher but Crusty Chevy did it and is loving it.

 

Where can you buy this CHEVY open drive conversion kit. I looked for the web site: VALLEY CUSTOM’S
But I couldn’t find it. Is anybody knows where I can buy this kit? Thanks
denismosnier@hotmail.com

 

Hay Denis I'm not finding anything anymore. If I remember right it was a company in Canada. It was pretty pricey also a few grand if my mind serves me right. I went with the t5 with the 55 chevy rear.

 

If your using the 1953 springs and put the center of the rear end tube centered on the spring pin/bolt the rear will be about 2” forward in the wheel opening. Either make your own spring perches from 1-3/4” channel iron or weld a flat strap to the stock style perch with the hole in the right place to center the tire in the opening. Having the u clamps a little farther back and notch centered makes the springs a little stiffer. If lowering you need to make your own blocks.

 

I need this ..how much ?

 

Even if the thousand dollar adapter is still available, the same money would get you a mountain of later Chevy three speeds and bell housings.

 

@Inline how about posting the pictures of the different bellhousings with captions telling what they came from, and what transmissions fit each?

 

Just punch "235 bellhousing" into Ebay and you'll see everything.

 

I know the original question was asked many years ago but I figure I’d share my experience.

as for bellhousing, you will need a 47-59 truck bell or a 55-62 p***enger that goes behind a stovebolt.

technically a 60-62 truck bell will work too but it will put your clutch on the p***enger side and you’ll have to use a hydraulic set up.

those bellhousings have the larger trans bolt pattern that any gm open drive, 3,4 or 5spd bolts up to

as for a drive shaft a 55-57 drive shaft is a direct bolt in.
to a open drive converted 49-54 p***enger (possibly truck too but I don’t have any direct experience with converting an AD.

Now on to the rear ends, as aforementioned the s-10 4x4 rear is a great width. Also The gears in them are typically hospitable to non over drive transmissions.

gbody rears and tri five rears are a good fit as well.

If using a tri five rear, note that a 57 is a one year only bearing and can be pricey on the bearings and seals sometimes.

If you’re wanting to do a triangulated 4 link the bodies have that set up from the factory.

as for leaf springs if you use stock springs you’ll need to move the center pin back 1 1/8”

I did this the first time by making a set of lowering blocks with the center pin moved back.

Later I purchased a set of posies 3” dropped springs and got the ones that have the center pin already relocated. Not only makes it super easy but also makes for a nice ride.

And lastly, if you add blocks to a 3” spring you’ll need to ad a small c-notch in the frame.

Hope this helps!