Hello Sorry, Im not sure what You mean. I need to read Your mail twice more,... I have hub on crank and another on blower shaft. Then I have made steel pulleys (alum. is not long life, if drive so much as I do). dust etc are "eat" aluminum) on hubs. I do not know right english name. We are say here in Finland and Sweden "Krymp". It means pulley hole (ID) is smaller than hub outer diameter (OD). 8/100 - 10/100mm (0.004"). Locking screws are only giving me more trust that those pulleys are really stay on their places. Its easy to drill 3 holes from belt Groove bottoms little to the hub and make 6mm thread. Idler pulley I have 15/100mm "krymp". Material is aluminum = light weight. In idler pulley I do not use any lock screws. I do not want to weld any hub and pulley together. Its easier to make changes when all are possible to press out using hydraulic press. aulis
Thanks Aulis - kind of figured you had what we call a 'Press Fit' -- just wasn't sure if you did anything else. I agree on using Steel for the belt grooves -- nothing else will really last. Do you happen to know if the SCoT input shaft is any sort of standard taper? I was wondering what you figured out on that? Thanks again - someday we may have to meet up. I may be coming over to Finland with my brother in the Fall - who knows, maybe we'll be in your area? (Don't know my plans as of yet!). Dale
Aulis, Maybe I read previous posts to fast and didn't catch the answers. I just went through installing a SCoT on my flattie last year and have a couple of observations and questions. Looks like you have good rap on the belts so there will be no slippage. What diameters did you use for the crank and blower pulleys? In order to achieve 7lbs. boost, which is a stretch for these blowers you need to over drive the blower. Your set up by observation of the pictures looks close to 1 to 1. My idler is similar to yours. The aluminum will rub off on the belts and discolor them. Not too big of a deal. I ***ume your going to use an electric cooling fan since there is no groove for the fan belt. What car are you putting this in?
Hello I had problem with lower, crank -pulley size. If I use HC magneto, pulleys need to be so small as they are now. It woulb be better if can use bigger pulleys --> belts not slide so easy. I can use also Angle drive + Scintilla/vertex mag there. Then I have more space to use bigger pulleys in crank --> overdrive. Now size is 112mm. (4 3/8") That´s why I want to use locking screws --> I can change different size pulleys, if needed. I have now 1:1 pulleys. I think more important to get 5-7psi boot is that supercharger is "tight" and end clearences are right. It gives what it gives, if blower is good condition. Overdrive is only heat air and make more problems if engine is daily use. Maybe Alum. idler pulley is not best, but if have good quality belts and change belts after 1000-2000km,.... For me those belts are 4euro each (I sell bearings, power transmission). Just ordered shorter belts from our Company. Those XPB 1400 are too long. XPB -serie next shorter is too short (1320) , so I changed to cl***ical v-belt = B. B-53 is 10-12mm shorter than XPB 1400. I do not like electric cooling fan, but maybe that is what I need to use. First I install engine to my Cabriolet, there is 14" fan front side of orig.radiator. AULIS
Hello Dale, You´re 100% correct ! ScoT has own "angle" in tappered end of shaft. I sell bearings to one Company who is make gear boxes, gears to Valtra (John Deere) etc etc. They have made me Italmeccanica/ScoT drive gears and now they made me that upper hub. I take picture later today. Dale, Wellcome any time (another hot rodders , wellcome too!). I have A-model (1928) house middle of small city here (seinajoki). Free room, shower, sauna, food,.... Car waiting for driving , if want to see Finland and make few days or week trips (2005 mustang). Just buy gasoline and drive!. Im living alone or with my 6y old Oscar son. I work home, so I have time to show places around this area etc. AULIS
Hi Aulis - thanks for the note. I like the idea of a hub on the top - that way you can change the pulleys. I have an original SCoT pulley - think I'll use it to make a steel hub - then press/bolt on the pulleys like you do. I like the third belt that you have driving the generator - makes that a lot easier than trying to bring the main belts out that wide (no pulley wrap). Like you, the thing that bothers me the most is the fan - I absolutely hate electric fans on hotrods. I think I'll have to ponder that one a bit and decide if I could fit an angle drive vertex and a fan in a 34 or a 32. Who knows - might actually be easier on a 32???? I'll keep you posted if I'm heading to Finland - have no idea on plans, but will let you know. Would be fun to meet you after all these years. I'm only 1/2 Finn - but it is my most important half! LOL Take care, Dale
Thanks. 50% Finn sounds good! Do not rent car from Helsinki. Just take fast train to Seinajoki (320km. 2h By train). My house is little over quartermile from railwaystation. Tomorrow I drive my cabriolet from another garage 1/8 mile from here. and start to make engine "swap".. Here pic of my cab. NOTE !!! wolrds happiest men are use 21bolt flatheads ! Here some pics. 3 x 6mm screw in crank pulley 2 x 6mm screw in blower pulley (+ 2 screw in alternator pulley) New belts arrived from our Company warehouse. B-53 cl***ic v-belts are very tight to install. aulis
Hi AULIZ! I always enjoy your posts and admire your machining skills and innovative ideas! Since you brought up picture quality I would like to take the opportunity to ask you if you could please post your pictures full size so we can see your fabulous work in more detail. Although I can click on the pictures as you post them and that make them larger they still seem to be a little dark and small. Maybe you post with your phone and the way you post the pictures is your only option. Please don't consider this a complaint. I just am asking because I want to view your work in larger detail so I can learn more from you. Sam Profit
doesn't the spreader bar do the same job as the water pumps, just moves the pulleys up and closer together to allow a V belt to clear the dizzy and drive the fan? The photo does not show the belt for the fan.
Hello I can enclose bigger pics. I use Canon EOS 18megapixel small systems camera (without mirrors, small body). I minimize pics because never know if this kind of websites not accept bigger pics,... and if send attached to email post, pics never go thru (too many megas). My work is not fabulous, just one man´s small garage and normal quality job. Thank´s anyway. Finland i don´t hear this kind of positive feedback, but I do not care, because I know finnish mentality. Here test 3 test pic Aulis
not look good. I do not know how to do it. I send those pics size 10Mega , but looks like small ...... A
It is not a problem if you cannot figure out how to post the pictures larger Auliz. The link below shows how it is done. I usually edit my pictures to 450 0r 600 size. Seems to fit the page and is large enough to be viewed easily and still have room to type some text under the photo. Thank you for giving it a try. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-post-images-on-a-thread.922350/
Hey Auliz, your work is pretty fabulous from what I can see plus and your "small garage" is more like my dream space! Keep up the good work, I'm interested to see how you install the fan.
You deserve all the positive comments you get! Like you, I do this stuff because I love it and I've met a lot of talented, cool and fun people over the last 40 years as a result. Most people I know can't make, build or fix a single thing - they just buy a new one. Guys like us - we appreciate vintage style, beautiful designs, mechanical engineering, Art Deco, mechanical wonders - all made before they had computers . . .
Picture Size: 1) Drag them into the post - will be listed at the bottom 2) When you have them all listed at the bottom, then put the cursor back in your post where you want them to go and click the "FULL IMAGE" ****on next to each one - they'll be inserted in a large size right into the post.
It holds the belt out away from the ignition. It's hard to see, there's another groove in the crank pulley that connects the pulley for the fan, but there is no belt shown. Auliz would need to add another groove to his crank.. Go to ebay and search So-Cal idler pulley flathead.
I see - this particular picture does NOT have that second belt in place - that was what was confusing me. The challenge with a 32 - 34 setup is that there is no room for that outside pulley - you only have room for the inner two wide-belts (at best). So, if he wants to run a fan, he needs to come up with a way to drive the fan off of most likely the upper blower pulley (needing another groove) - then he'd also need to come up with some sort of tensioner. When I used to run my SCoT in my 34, I never managed to get all of that sorted out -- but it was a drag car, so no big deal. I think I'll need to come up with a plan if I'm going to run a blown flathead in my 34 roadster -- whether a true flathead or an Ardun . . . lots of problem solving to be done. There is no way in Hell I'm putting an electric fan on it - just doesn't ever look right on a vintage car.
Dale.. my 28 has a cut down upper fan mounted directly to the generator. Works great. Not a full size unit but it's better than nothing and it's all vintage parts Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is what I do on my 32 - but it is a real complex beast when you then throw a blower on that ****er! B&S
Generally you have to fab a pulley for the blower.. if it's low enough you can do the same thing no? Obviously it's a bigger cooling issue with the huffer though Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hello Ou, here is so many reply .....takes time to read all. I started to read first ones after my reply. Thanks, I try to send "full images" next time. Now blower engine is one week waiting for next step. Yesterday I got ready valvejobs to 8BA, which I have presold. I honed cylinders using RBM flex-a-hone, new piston rings, new rod bearings, adjust lifters, new hot rod cam. Nothing very special. I found that Edelbrock Regular (hi-rise) intake from Finland, carbs are rebuilt (2 x 48) i CA. I have good time to built engines, Police took my drivinglicense (1month). 4 ticket during 2 years. Good thing is that i live middle of city, foodstores etc are near. AULIS
FAN: That is possible that I make one 13mm (XPA, SPA) pulley more on crank hub and screw it on its Place. Good idea! I need to do that atleast when I install this engine to to my 5w coupe (still "strong" Project). Now I can lift Blower engine in to the cabriolet. There is elecr fan front side of orig. radiator,. That car is more testbench for engine. I know that block is not 100% and Im not sure how all goes..... AULIS I have EAB engine (1952-53) in my panel delivery. I do not have there any fan. New Walker radiator, not too long time cruicing middle of city (trafic lights), works good. I decided install EAB original fan. I need to cut wings shorter but still better than nothing.
Here's an image from original literature. It's a 49-53 with the distributor on the side. Maybe you could use the idler spreader bar I mentioned in previous post to clear the ignition on your earlier block with the center dizzy . You would also need to change the generator mount from what you have. The generator would be the belt adjuster, hence no need for the idler adjuster pulley. I just don't know if there would be enough room to mount the fan on the end of the blower intake. With the generator mount shown, if you were to run a hood on a 32, you would not be able to use the sides, the generator would not clear. I tried on my 8ba and went to a different mount to get the sides to shut on my 32. Once you have the motor in the car you can work out the bugs.
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