Was checking my intake&exhaust-235 with dual C/W's Was wondering if I could use blue lock***e on the bolts? Some were loose.I have a pretty rumpy cam(3/4) and it does vibrate the engine at times. Thoughts-
it always seams to take 3 "tightenings" before they stop coming loose. at least that is what i have found.
Some useful discussion here. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/thread-lock-exhaust-manifold-bolts-1268497/ But best to inquire at Loc***e customer service.
I agree with the three tightenings thing. I'd give it some time before trying loc***e. Once the gaskets compress fully, then add lock***e.
Its been in the car several years now. Was referring to the the "blue***e" claims loosens with hand tools....
To loosen red lock***e, you put heat on it. Don't know if its suitable for headers. Blue can be loosened with tools.
Red works for me down to 1/4" fasteners but for exhaust, grade 8 lock washers, in my experience, lock***e will "burn" over time.
You could look at it simply, Blue could be used on external fasteners that could vibrate loose, Red for internal fasteners that you don't want floating around your rotating parts. This is how we think putting hydraulic components together. Get a Loc***e spec sheet,there's many varieties and purposes.
If you mean split-lock washers, no. They work no better than a plain washer, or no washer at-all. If your bolts are not loosening, it is because you torqued them properly.
Loc***e is good when used properly and its best to use the number rather than the colour, they don't make a Loc***e that will survive exhaust temps . 290 is a handy one for applying without pulling things apart (if still clean)
Studs with nuts would be a great help if you have room to install . You can add larger amounts of torque . Loosening up is wearing on threads in head where bolts are screwed into . Studs would prevent this also , thread lock or locknuts on outside stud thread will work better than threadlocker on internal thread
You could try new high quality bolts. If you reused the old ones they they probably have worn threads from multiple tightening and corrosion. I do like loc***e.
Loc***e won't work for headers, too hot. Check the bolt length, make sure they are not bottoming out before the proper torque, seen it happen. Just to be safe I would buy ARP header bolts made for your application, follow their toque specs and you'll be good to go.
The "correct" lock washers for headers look different. They are thicker and not necessarily larger in diameter because of the tight fit. Not on headers but my personal Loc***e is machine screw purple.