Anyone have any experience putting a small block Chev in a 40 Ford? Do I have to change out the firewall? I want to install a 350 with 350 or 400 trans any info would be appreciate.
You don't have to cut the firewall to install the SBC. The 350 transmission will fit with just a small notch in the lower rails. I use a small MSD distributor in order to have room around the firewall indent which is stock. Plenty of room without cutting the firewall. There is also adequate room for the fan. The Mallory also has a small cap which fits the opening. I made my own motor mounts and they are like P&J which bolt in.
If you aren't comfortable building your own mounts, look up Chassis Engineering in West Branch Iowa. Good stuff there.
Hey thanks for the info and pics. The reason I asked is because I see replacement firewalls for Chevy engine installations for 40 fords. Yes I plan on using the small distributor because I'll be using tri-power. Speedway sells all the parts and chassis cross for Chevy trans installation and i'm planning on Mustang II front end and coil spring 9 inch ford rear from them and comes with Chevy cross for the engine installation. Any other info would be appreciated though. Thanks again.
Chassis Engineering makes excellent mounts with idiot proof installation instructions. If you are using your stock front suspension you will have to run an electric fuel pump, or trim and box the spring mount cross member in the area of the old flathead water pump/motor mount for mechanical fuel pump clearance. I find the electric fuel pump much easier. If you follow the instructions and do the math you can pull those mounts forward on your frame rails about 3/8 to 1/2" for some extra distributor to stock firewall clearance as I did. As stated you will have to run the small style distributor. CE also sells the 350 or 400 tranny mount plates that also has the split wishbone mounts on them. CE has a parallel bolt on rear leaf spring kit also if you choose to swap out your rear end. I bolted then stich welded mine on
One issue you might encounter is the exhaust on the drivers side. If you are using a stock steering box you will have to get creative with your header. As suggested above, Chassis Engineering has an installation kit for your car.
I have a set of tight tuck coated headers with pipes to about mid seat under the frame made for 35-40 Ford chassis pm if you want to
Sheepdip gave you some very good info. I have done many 40's all with small blocks and have never altered a firewall.. Pay particular attention about what he said about motor mounts-I always move them forward the same. If you go by their diagram measurements your dist may hit the firewall. I also use early chevy distributors (smaller diameter) converted to electronic and cut the crossmember for a mechanical fuel pump. Chassis Engineering has everything you need and are very good products. I use their trans wishbone mount and parallel leaf rearend kit as well.
Here are some photos of my 40 chassis using TCI components front and rear. Speedway now sells these parts for 35-40 Ford.
And use the short water pump. My '37 has the same frame as your '40. I used the Chassis Engineering parallel leaf kit in the rear. It's a bolt-in and my 8-inch rear bolted to the springs. Your 9-inch might, too. I made lowering blocks (est. 2") to center the rear tire in the fender opening. I recommend the Chassis Engineering center-X kit, too. But you'll surely need the body off the frame to install it. Hope that's your plan. The center-x kit has holes for a 350TH trans mount. But ... if you use them your distributor will be very, very close to firewall. Heed the above advice suggesting moving engine forward for more firewall clearance. It will be worth the hassle of moving the trans mounting holes on the center-x kit. Using a 400TH or 700R trans will likely require serious frame surgery. Stay with a 350 trans if your doing your own work. Just my $.02. Hope this helps.
All Good advice above. You will do yourself a big favor by using the Chassis Engineering Inc. parts over the Speedway stuff. It is much better engineered stuff and will be well worth any extra cost initially in the end results.
Coupla more things from experience: Chassis Engr tells you to bend down the lower X flange to clear slight interference with 350 trans pan. Notching will weaken. I decided to notch anyway in case I ever needed to remove trans. Good thing I did because that time came and notches made trans removal easier. I'm running mild SBC. If I had a blown BBC I might have been more concerned with frame strength and not notched. When installing X kit, put all bolts in from under side with nuts on top side. Flooring will be so close that you won't be able to get bolts out if they were put in from top and bolts need to be out so X pieces can be removed.
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