Tear it the rest of the way down an see how the bottom end looks. Most likely out of a large truck, grain truck or similar. Short block is probably fine, heads are mismatched and not great for making power. Plan on finding some new heads if you want to make decent power with it. Post up what you find, good thing about sbc's, everyone has an opinion.
odd that it isn't a 4 bolt main on a large truck engine though does appear to have a steel crank in it.
4 bolt mains mostly started with the large journal cranks, eh? like I said above, it's from a 1966-68 60 series truck.
When you pull the cylinder heads off please post a picture that shows the top of a piston. I'm dying to know if they're dished.
Engine's out of a BIG truck as evidenced by the governor, the thermostat housing, the additional hoses at the water pump and thermostat housing, the oil filter/cooler ***embly, the pulleys, the HUGE (12"?) clutch ***embly (first time I've seen a Borg and Beck style clutch with FOUR fingers), the "C" shaped plate between the engine and the bellhousing (truck only item people try to sell on E-Bay as an adapter), the right sided hydraulic clutch slave cylinder, the full centrifugal advance distributor with something below the breaker plate that probably works with the governor, I'm guessing the "Power Pack" heads actually have 70 CC chambers in order to run "fleet" quality gasoline, the LONG oil dipstick tube, the bellhousing, mounting, and it's register size, and finally the farmer green color of the engine. Is the crank cast? Could be being it's a low RPM motor. Anyway, you gots yourself a genuine truck engine there, yes sir. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
The oil filter adapter SHOULD have been a can that held a paper filter , like the older ,smaller, chevy canister filters. as i remember from working on those old GRAIN haulers.
Back in the 60s, big Chevy truck 327 short blocks were candy to the NASCAR coupe guys at Agawam. Mostly from Anchor Freight trucks, the long haul vehicles that delivered GM new cars to New England dealers. Good seasoned high mile blocks that became the base of the race motors.
No steel crank usually indicates a 2 bolt main cap the 4 bolt mains mostly started with the large journals, as Jim said . *I'm seldom right but i'm never wrong*<----- come on thats funny
Can't see pix at work, what is the P/N on the bellhousing? That can narrow it down too. The truck flywheel takes up to a 12" clutch on most of them.
What ever the history, I'll bet that's gonna be a good builder. Chances are it never seen north of 4K. The price was right, leaving room on the table for some 'good' stuff.
The number on the bellhousing is 3779388. I also got a few pictures of the oil filter housing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and crank. The crank looks forged to me. Thoughts?
yeah, it's a steel crank. If you look at the casting dates on the cast parts, you can figure out what year it is, if you care. They are too small to see in your pictures. look for a series of letters and numbers, such as J 21 7 or similar. The last digit is the last digit of the year. in my example, it's October 21, 1967. the engine was ***embled on November 4th, according to the number stamped on the front of the block.
I've used several medium-duty SBC's in my builds over the years and they all came with steel forged cranks. Now, I've heard they were not hardened, but I can't prove it for a fact. Also, those blocks were all 4-bolt 350's, O1O blocks, with thick wall castings. Heads were 1.72 in. - 1.5 ex. (sodium filled ex. valve stems) and 76cc chambers. Just put in bronze guides and S/S valves, pocket porting, and you're good to go for a mild motor. Most were out of C-60 school buses. Good donors!
Another update for everyone. The date code on the block says K16. Date code on heads D964 (drivers side) and J165 (p***enger side). Intake manifold codes are 3877652 and K35. I probably won't tear into it any more until later this week.
Got a couple of short blocks and pairs of heads from those engines laying in a storage trailer at the shop. Came out of a pair of 67 C-60's Dad bought in 67. When the engines were worn out around 74 or so, we just went to the Chevy dealer and bought new long blocks. IIRC about $425 back then for a long block. The cranks are steel as evidenced by the big parting line, and they came with a double row roller chain rather than silent chain on the cam. They about went to the s**** yard several years ago when we were cleaning out some other junk, but I kept them since I knew for certain neither of them had ever been bored or damaged in any way. Just tired from a lot of use. Probably shoulda sent the heads on to s****
Another update for everyone. The date code on the block says K16. Date code on heads D964 (drivers side) and J165 (p***enger side). Intake manifold codes are 3877652 and K35. Your block is actually dated K15 which means November 1st of 1965 for a 1966 truck. The J165 (October 16th 1965) and the intake dated K35 are likely original to the motor....the head with date D964..is April 9th of 1964...so likely a replacement head. Edit....if you look at the picture showing the casting date on the block it looks like K15....if you blow the pic up...looks like K16. So all my talk of what appears to be original to each other is kinda moot. I'll let my post stand though in terms of deciphering dates....that info is correct. I hope.
If it survived all the abuse the farmers hired hands throwed at it . After a good cleaning and a solid rebuild it should serve you for many years.
It's a 13 inch clutch. Today I removed the water pump, crank pulley, harmonic balancer, oil pump, intake manifold, rocker arms, pushrods, cylinder heads, timing chain & sprocket, and main bearing caps. I'll remove the rod bearings, crank, and pistons/rods tomorrow. I forgot to take some pictures of the bearings in the main caps, but I'll get them tomorrow with all the rest of the bearings.
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