Technical Model 40 (1933 - 1934 Ford) Rolling Chassis IDEAS to spark new IDEAS Thread!

That was the sixties baby! The center pic is a HAMBers car, his name is on the tip of my tongue, he was involved in the building of that light blue chopped A tudor.

 

Damn, if I am gonna be true to period, I need both, a metal one for the mock-up of my t-bucket, and a wooden one for the '39!

 

The purple coupe was built by Allan Hare in New Zealand, the year was 1971

 

I did some weirder stuff on my 34 truck which should all work on a coupe or sedan.
I used 48 F1 front springs for the rear, split down to three leaves. With the truck's original shackles the rear lines up perfect in the wheel radi on the box and the shackles go through some original holes in the frame. I then dropped the frame straight down through the front hanger that I fabbed to sort of look like the original F1 mount.

It sits pretty good with a 2 1\2" dropped axle and reverse eye spring.

 

That car belongs to @titus maybe he can post more pic's of it - another one of my fav's... it was a car @Marcy found and bought I think and Titus brought it back from the dead with an early hemi with Edmunds heads and valve covers- super COOL.

 

I want a pair of those buick tail-lights for my T-Tudor. Love the side by side early ford master cylinders. '53/'54 ford swing pedals?

 

Tuck,

Here is a couple pictures of my ride



50 Cad 331
Old speed Queen trans adapter to Ford Hogs head
my own adapter hogs head to T5
S-10 T5 4wd
T5 trans adapter to TT
34 frame, Z'd 3 inches in the rear
stock front cross member
Model A rear cross member, flattened
Model A rear spring for QC
36 rear with QC
36 radius rods
34 front axle dropped 2 by Sid's ( my buddy Andy Kohler wasn't doing them at the time) Stock axle height shown in pictures.


Firewall relocated back 1" for Cad motor
X member pushed back 1" to maintain pedal to firewall geometry
stock 34 pedal reworked for hydraulic

Since these pictures I have moved the front radius rod inboard to triangulate them on the transmission cross member.

If you need more let me know, I have lots of pictures to share.

 

Tuck, I plan on starting build thread in a few months. A lot of Hambers have asked me about the avatar.
I dislike clone, tribute, recreation. Not sure of correct word to use. It's not just the build, it is a great story. Have quite a bit going on in the Hobby Shop at the moment and hopefully big projects will be gone in a few months and I will get back to my roadster.

 

Great thread on the model 40. I have built a couple in my time but always went more the stock body and grille rather than the modified. Both look great. Hopefully you can use your stock rails as they are the best for your inspiration.
I have included some of my build photos from my 33 roadster project. Keep us posted as dreaming is very important in this hobby.



The car was sold and changed into a more 50's look to suit the new owner's taste. I like it better than my approach. Yes, it is a Wescott body which is not HAMB friendly but worked for me.

 

Some I have built over the years. Collecting parts is a good way to build a car, after while you have enough to start building. Tuck you have the right idea!

 

Another one - the current project.

 

Geeze Tuck....after looking at chassis that have been shortened, lengthened, bobbed and pruned, mine is downright boring. I kept the front horns, [so far] replaced the front cross member with a Horton's Welder Series flat job, reversed eye spring and used my original 33 wishbones after splitting it. I used an F-1 pedal assembly and after ditching the original [hacked up] tranny crossmember, I made one from flat plate, bolted in. Still gotta make a top for it over the trans to tie the top of the X together. I welded in a pete and jakes crossmember for my ladder bars...all Pete and Jakes stuff. I cut the original rear crossmember out and tac'd in a model A rear member after pie cutting the rear rails at the axle, welded in a C section and then bobbed off the rear rails.They now hug the bottom of the trunk floor all the way back to the end of the body. Had to use a model A rear spring to clear the Q.C. axle. After I remove the body, I still need to C the front rails to clear the spring and tie rod, drag link and panhard...they don't touch now but will on a hard dip. I already C'd the rear rails for clearance.Got the front boxing plates tac'd in place and I'll need to use some boxing plates in the rear to tie the model A cross member to the frame rails properly.
Mine is not channeled at all and I like my lumpy front inner panels. Oh yeah, I closed up that nasty looking hole in the driver's side frame rail since the photo was taken...still need to patch the other side..
I kinda like the model 40 with a 32 grill...even better with a narrowed 37 truck grill. I've seen a 36 caddy grill for sale on the HAMB classifieds that I thought would be awesome on a model 40. Be creative, man!
You should come down and spend a weekend again...take a look...bring those T-shirts, buddy.

 

@Rocky I do need to come visit it's been way too long. I have that roundup shirt for you too damn it I need to send that out.

Totally talking out loud here... but I was looking at the bad spots on my frame and thinking about the 40 style rear cross member flattened mentioned above. I have a 41 chassis and the frame rails are identical (or close to) in the rear only wider. I think I can just use the rear section of the 41 frame to replace the rust while creatively cutting and narrowing the rear section and you would hardly notice especially in a channelled coupe, and gain some kickup.

 

i cut up a 1941 ford frame, i will graft on model A front 36" or so... the rear kick up is 10",
rugged frame, too much lift out front for the A subfloor...


.
.turn of the century...

 

I know you've probably seen this pic, but since you said 33-34 coupes with deuce shells, I thought I'd post. This is my car in a picture from the early 80s. When I got the body, this guy had already put the floors back in it.

The guy I got it from said it had 1947 LA Times newspapers stuffed in the doors and it still has a San Bernardino address written inside.

He said the floor was rough, with plywood and black shag carpet. Otherwise, he said it was pretty stock 33-34 stuff engine and chassis wise.

 

Yep you certainly could do that, especially if you'll be fixing frame rails anyway.
I made the rear tails here an 33/34 rails

 

I'm subscribed to this. I have the nicest '32 truck grille and the roughest 33 5W body and would really like to combine the two channeled over the frame and with a modified firewall. I've got a '56 265, a 3x2 setup for it, a '50 F-1 open drive trans and the adapter to put the two together, but no frame or axles yet. I'd like to see how others have tackled this.

I also heard a rumor of another 33 or 34 body that could be bought fairly cheap and is still on it's original frame, I have to go check it out.

 

Thanks for posting this- such a rad coupe! I'm going to keep the faith that if I build a chassis the body will come... out of nowhere maybe love your thread on finding this thing.

Someone posted this in a video clip in another post- just figured I would add it because its got a nice 3/4 profile.

 

Oh MY GOD I JUST SUBSCRIBED TO ANOTHER TUCK THREAD.
I FEEL LIKE I HAVE A TUCK BROMANCE GOING.

Just kidding but another great thread just the same

 

I was going through my buddy grandpas pics that he took out on the lakes in the forties and this one really stuck out to me!!!

 

I'm in! I'm finally back at working on my 34 five window again - has been in "mothballs" for the last 7 or so years (got busy with the FlatCad for Bonneville, then the FlatCab and other damn projects). I've committed to getting the rolling frame, engine and body to Flop late Spring or early summer - so I'm back in the saddle. The following are pictures from when I was building the frame. I'll post updates on the suspension stuff I'm currently building:

1) 34 Custom Frame - I started with ASC Rails, fabrication a go-go . . .
2) 392 Blown Hemi - about an 8" setback (as much as I can do and still have room for clutch/brake pedals). It is really a bastard to fit one of these beasts in - given the 3" blower drive in front, radiator location - etc.. Needless to say, there will be a LOT of firewall work (Flop should enjoy this - LOL).
3) Tremec TKO Trans
4) 32 dropped front axle and hairpins (making these as I write), Posies reverse eye spring
5) Frankland Q.C. with big Q.C. bells, 3" axle tubes, 31 spline axles, DPI differential and Wilson Welding Lincoln brakes, Buick drums
6) Flattened Model A front cross member (repop), radiator in stock position
7) Model A rear cross - Posies reverse eye spring.

 

Dale you should post these pics in the drilled holes thread too.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Holy crap! You could hit a peterbuilt head-on with that chassis and never even scratch it. Must be anticipating mucho torque from that blown hemi. Very nice.

 

Didn't know there was such a thread . . . but I guess it qualifies . . . LOL! I don't know - - - I just love holes and french curves . . . preferably on the same girl.

Yeah, given the weight of the Hemi, the potential HP of it (notice the Top-Fuel Donovan 417 heads), wanted to create a frame that would "hopefully" minimize twist . . . as that just screws up body lines, gaps, etc.. Plus, I guess I like 'metal jewelry' - so this is a hotrod sculpture in my mind. I'm geeked about it once again - can't wait for Flop to get his mitts on it and do his magic . . . I just want to drive the fucker.

 

That is one monster frame Bored and Stroked!!

 

Hahaha! Awesome. Your comment reminded me of those 1960s vintage girlie french curves. Have you seen those before?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Fre...ct-Engineer-Tools-Advertisement-/132080036978

 

Nope - but I'm willing to take a gander! LOL

 

Great thread. Gotta love 33/34's

 

They came 4 to a pack...