I have a 59ab that l am slowly pulling apart when l feel the need to break something like the head studs. I have searched and tried all the ideas to loosen the freaking studs, heat ,wax hitting , tapping, swearing ,sprays and drinking to much bourbon and coke to honour the flathead gods but sometimes the stud just feels soft and snaps. So looking around at ways that people remove the broken section l reckon that this looks like a great system which l have no claims to, l just thought it should be posted . This is off the reds header site Broken Head Studs - More Removal Tips Sept/Oct 2003 This is another alternative method for removing broken head studs. It appears to work well and its quite simple. It comes courtesy of Jack Beggs, Editor o f H & HH, Regional Group #67. In our Dearborn RG #67 we have developed a slightly different system for accomplishing the same task (broken bolt/stud removal) and it does not require any welding skill or equipment that you described in your column. The technique was originated by retired machinist Jim Ogden, and was improved somewhat in the final system described below. Alan Penney, a member of our RG at the time, machined the two sleeves for the use of our members. This method is similar to ideas given by Roger Owens in your column in the Nov/Dec 2001 issue, but we think our technique is a little easier since it does not require using a modified s**** head. The instructions for our members who wish to make this repair are as follows: The club has two stainless steel sleeves available for drilling out broken cylinder head studs. The purpose of these sleeves is to drill out broken studs from engine blocks using the cylinder head bolted in place to hold the drill guide sleeves. This procedure is preferred to using easyouts because of the danger of breaking off an easyout in the block and not being able to drill out the easyout due to the hardness of the steel. The procedure for Ford flatheads (all years to the best of my knowledge) is to ream out the cylinder head hole with a 15/32" drill to get rid of the rust. Then, the sleeves with a 15/32 O.D. should slide into the hole finger tight. Wipe a little oil on the exterior of the sleeve so it doesn't get stuck in the hole. The first sleeve to use is the one with the inner diameter of 1/4". Some of the old studs are very hard and not easy to drill through, so this drill size will take out a large portion of the old stud as a first step, using 1/4" drill bit. The, the second sleeve with an inner diameter of 23/64" is used to drill out the remaining old material, using a 23/64" drill bit. it will drill through much easier with the 1/4" pilot hole already done. As you drill to the end of the old stud, you will enter the water cavity of the block, so be careful not to press too hard so that you don't go crashing in there and break off your bit inside. You can tell when you are getting close to the end by measuring the threads on the new replacement stud. The 23/64" drill bit will take out all of the old stud except the threads. Now you will have to remove the cylinder head to finish up the removal. The next step is to "pick out" some of the remaining old stud threads from the threads in the block so that you can start a 7/16"-14 NC. tap which will clean out all of the old threads for the new stud. You need to remove about two circles of the old threads, you will need a sharp tool like an ice pick or something similar. Be patient and careful, and you will be able to accomplish this easily. Once the tap is started, a few turns restores the block threads for the new stud. The length of the sleeves are roughly 2 and 1/4" to allow enough of the sleeve to stick out of the cylinder head so that you can get a pair of pliers on it if it gets stuck in the head. When drilling and tapping, you should use, of course, a cutting lubricant like motor oil, or better. Keep the insides of the sleeves lubricated so they don't wear away. When installing the new stud, a thread sealer must be used because the stud hold is open to the cooling system. Head gasket sealer or any other sealer which can stand the high temperatures should be satisfactory. Jack Beggs, Editor, Henry's Hometown Herald RG #67 If we make taking broken head bolts and studs out any easier, people will be doing it on purpose -- just for fun. Thanks to Jack Beggs and the fine folks in RG #67.
I always use reverse drill bits, when I used to work in a shop thats how we did it and it never failed, took awhile, but never failed.
did you set up some sort of a guide or just eyeball it? Did you use a combination of heat , sprays first or just the use of reverse drill did the trick?
it was usually last resort if the head was gone, but usually I would use heat/ PB penetrating oil. and I always eyeballed it.
I use a similar set up with multiple way off topic engines. I've made templates to make sure I drill straight into the stud and not into any of the block surface more than I have to. The aluminum blocks are always the worst, most of the time it's not the studs that break but the threads it pulls out. But there are a few late model Chevy and Mopar blocks that are known for breaking the bolts, some of the late model diesel are the same. Slow speed drill is a must, taking time, lubrication and some of the best drill bits in the world make it much easier. I have a full set of drill bits that were well over 1k and they make drilling anything a breeze. When I get close to the point to where I see threads I'll usually switch to left handed drill bits to see if it will grab that last thin remnants of the bolt/stud. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It all has to do with heat. A small heat source like a MAP gas or Propane tank usually does the trick. A really good drift punch works great to start to make sure you put it straight in the center. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The method as described in the first post has two shortcomings in my opinion. 1 the chances of the drill bit walking inside the stud will get you into the threads. 2 it requires the use of a tap to clean the rest of the material out of the female threads, this will destroy the "cl*** of fit" between the stud and block. Ford studs fit very tightly in the block for a reason, once you destroy that the stud becomes a leaker. Also the head has some tolerance between holes so achieving proper initial alignment is iffy. I have tried this method and results were less than satisfactory. The method I use today is always successful: You weld a washer to the broken stud, even if it is below the level of the block. Then weld a nut to the washer. A Tig is best for this as you can get a lot of heat into the stud before you add any filler, remember this is a 7/16 stud surrounded by a 200 pound heat sink. I don't have a Tig so I use my Mig. Using a Mig requires some experimentation to get the heat and wire speed so that you get penetration without a pile of weld bead, think high heat low wire feed rate. Let it cool, get a wrench or socket on it so you are applying pressure around the center line of the stud. Work it tight then loose if it starts to move be gentle and continue to work it a little further towards the loose side each time. You will have several failures so don't feel bad just do it again, it will come out........ eventually. I have a very nice Snap-on collet type stud extractor but it is a pain so I never use it. I start out by heating every stud then using a cam style stud remover with moderate pressure tight then loose. If it doesn't move I weld a 1/2 inch nut to the stud, let it cool. Take a torque wrench set at 70 ft/lb try it tight then loose. If that doesn't work I take an impact set at very low torque or air pressure and once again tap tap tap tight then loose. The object here is not to break any, because that require a lot more work. Like I said my opinion, but it works for me.
I do the same thing as @29AVEE8 Weld the washer and nut. I use that method on any stuck bolt that it's possible, never fails.
Egads ! Soooo' what if the heads are still on ? Yeah I know .... take them off. Don't mind the 200 bucks in gaskets, and etcs. Cam adjusted perfectly, runs great, aluminum heads, retorque after heat cycles .... and 《BAM》!!! , the head bolt between cylinders 4 and 6 snaps off at 68ft/lbs ! F#ck ! Yep, it's there. 4th rocker over, between it and fifth rocker. No more head bolt shoulder. Gone. Bye bye. Adios. WTF. Was just researching this today here. Not a lot of hope for me repairing with heads on. Soooooo' not happy. Was praying for HAMB-vinity. No luck. Even worse .... neighbor's car. Awesome to screw yourself. Thanks for the help good samaritan neighbor. F#kn' HAMBr !
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