Deck lid is already resolved. I've moved on to welding the roof insert in. Sooo much welding Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Your holding out on us! We like pics of welding here .[emoji42] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The replacement deck Lid skin arrived unskathed So I spent a few hours fitting it....honestly, such a pain in the ***,,,,nothing's easy.
Still piecing together the p***enger side roof. This is the worst side because it was trimmed /cut pretty short and crudely.
Maybe I missed it, is that a Brookville deck skin or a UPAC? What issues are you finding? Wrong arch, or too big/small for the hole? I've got an original skin that's not too bad and a repro Brookville inner panel. I hope I don't encounter too much trouble putting them together.
The quarters are UPAC and the inner and outer decks are Brookville. The inner lid had to be trimmed on all four corners because it wouldn't sit flush in the skin. I had to also bend the the outer edge on the skin in order for it to fit between the quarters. The bent edge on the quarters were a bit fat and those had to be flattened as well. Lots of reshaping and hammering to get things to kinda fit.
I noticed your cowl has rust in the EXACT same spot (above the dash) as Homadehardtop's current project 5-window. They must all rust the same in your corner of the country. Keep up the good work. Every foot of welding wire gets you that much closer.
Also started soldering the ends on the battery cables. Hoping to install some quick wiring and fire the motor. Two years ago a ROG was the first time the motor was run after a full rebuild,,,well it was was run on a dyno for break in. While racing on the beach I noticed a small tick develop on my second p***...I honestly didn't pay much attention and just figured the valves were seating and would need a readjust when I got home. After the race I pulled the intake and saw the number 4 guide clip sitting in the valley and a small piece of the guide right next to it. Well after removing all the pieces and the valve ***embly I notice the lifter adjusting screw had loosened itself....I could adjust the lash by hand....found the problem! Luckily there was no damage to the cam so I popped in a new lifter, adjusted it and we should be ready to go.
Hey Canuckerheads By the way Pete you take great pics along with the details. That shot of the piston and studs is a great one...
Found this cool shift knob in a junk yard but it was missing the red jewel. I had a bunch of dash indicator lights that I purchased years ago. I dissected the light and removed the gl*** lens,,,,fit perfect!! So stoked.
No its a bit of a balancing act that works...Neighbor to the South...Some interesting things went on back in the day with the cars. Subtle differences like the Philips(star) and Robertson (square) thing with the Model A's. Stuff gets around for sure...
That's the same one that I put into my A. Shoehorned in but it worked out great. Never got the gauge to work even with new gauge to match sender.
Steve Fuel tank was purchased from Kennys rod & kustom, newton falls Ohio The actual tank is manufactured by "tanks" Brian at Kennys is a solid stand up guy, I highly recommend them.
The Jalopy Journal
