1952-59 Ford 53 Merc Gasser Build Thread: Project Quicksilver

The car is in paint, more pics this weekend. Meanwhile, Great Lakes Dragaway in Union Grove, WI is having a "first 20 years" event soon. People are posting old drag car photos and I was surprised to see this one, going to use it for lettering ideas... 1955 Merc... pretty cool. And most people think only '55 Chevy's are G***ers...

 

Quick Q in the rear. What size is your pinion flange? Mine is a 1310 series and I would think the NASCAR flanges are a bit larger.

 

They actually make a 1310 to 1330 or 1350 u-joint so you don't have to change your driveshaft. I have to have a driveshaft made anyway so it's not an issue. But, to directly answer your question, I hadn't measured it yet, I think it's the 1350 size...

 

Body all painted, I'll paint the roof when it gets home next week. 99% of trims holes were welded up. Left the three side spears on the bottom...

Fenders... trims holes gone...

And the hood... car was nosed and decked except for the Merc letters and trim on the front...

 

Lookin ' good!

 

Thanks, I'll ask before I place my order, want to pull my rear out first to make sure on the spline count.

I've seen the conversion joint before so it would be the way to go. I had a shaft made for my car, ran me a flat $300, all I supplied was the trans yoke.

 

OK, back at it again, more progress made... here comes the completely random updates!!!
Car up on the lift, working on the underside...

Super clean underneath. VERY minor surface rust here and there... Notice the mud dauber nest on the spare tire well... That's one of 4387 that I found under the car... Bottom is getting just a quick wire brush and some POR15

OK, custom rear axle here. Started out with the dimensions of a 65 Mustang axle. Then I had them narrow it another inch. Also had the perches welded on exactly where they are supposed to go. 9" w/31 spline axles, detroit locker, 4:30 gears. I'm running 8" wide 28.5" tall piecrust slicks on 7" wide wheels. While I don't have a pic yet, I had to let the air out to get it in there and it jussst slightly rubbed the fender lip putting it in. Once in, it looks like I could have a couple more inches of slick! (pic of the tire fitment later...) OH!! and Thanks JEFF! And the FAQ Sticky... that's a '55 Ford tank under this Merc...

wire brush the heck out of the firewall, get all the flakey stuff off. That's an Ebay front disk setup, went on easy...

Just need to finish the front cross over brake line and I'm ready to stick the engine and trans in. Flathead mounts still need to go bye bye. 1968 Mustang master cylinder mounted right up. 60's spatter paint on the firewall, POR15 semi gloss on the ch***is...

More to come... clock is ticking... gotta be done by mid July... Shooting for way earlier so I can work the bugs out...

 

Using a Butch's kit for mounting ? http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/eng-trans-mounting-kits-3/

 

Yup! Got the trans mount drilled so pretty much ready to go.

 

So you will probably have to fab up the fenderwell headers ? The problem that stops guys from running long tube headers is that oval area you see in the last picture in post # 37 if that were gone you could use headers like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...ash=item3613bd17aa:g:JNwAAOSwP~tW1k5C&vxp=mtr Or http://www.ebay.com/itm/******-6901...ash=item58cde30989:g:UUoAAOSwEetWADcP&vxp=mtr

 

I enjoy seeing your project moving along.
I noticed in one of your pictures that you have Disc Brakes up front. What kit did you use?

 

Frank, I used this kit from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-1...ash=item35ea4802f4:g:Z2YAAOSwBahVV4DW&vxp=mtr

I found it to be very well made, packaged and with good instructions. I had to do some very minor clearance grinding on the main brackets but it mentions that in the instructions that some might require it. Other than that it went together great and all hardware was included. If I remember right it uses Ford rotors (Aerostar?) and GM calipers.

 

So I may fab up some fenderwells later this year but for now I am going to attempt to run shorties. It's possible I found a set of Patriots that are going to fit. They really hug the block and dump out the back. The main problem I have is that I need a set of larger tube headers. The Patriots are 1 5/8" primaries to 3" collectors. Even those long tube tri y's and others use pretty small diameter tube. All the gains of the head porting, cam etc would go right out the window by choking it down... Will be pushing ~480HP out of this lil SBF...

I might be able to get the engine and trans in next weekend but I am also thinking I might paint the roof if the temps are good. If I got the engine route, once it's in I am going to look at those ovals and see about opening them up some more.

I also ran into a snag mounting the clutch master cylinder. I thought (wrong) I could use the factory clutch rod hole but I didn't realize that runs at a steep angle from the pedal. I drilled a hole more inline with the pedal but now I need to get a remote reservoir master so it will clear the brake master. Master... Master... Need about a 6:1 pedal ratio on the clutch but I am going to have to put a pedal stop somewhere on the floor or firewall as the travel on the clutch master is about 1.3" and the pedal travel is closer to 2" at the correct mounting point...

 

Thank you . I'll be saving that link for sure.

 

Plugging along... Makeshift paint booth in the garage. Shooting the dash and door trim today. Spraying the flake and candy on the roof this weekend...

 

Coming along nice. My rear tires are a tight fit too, s****es the lip of the fender well on one side a bit.

I had mud dauber nests between the frame and body, under the dash, in the heater and defroster ducts. When I first got the car I was taking the brakes off and had a spider take a piece out of my hand, it wasn't too bad.

 

Well, 12 cups of coffee and some heart palpitations and I got the roof painted. First time I've attempted anything like this. Started out with scuffing the epoxy primer with 320, then laid down a couple coats of intercoat clear that had aluminum pearl pigment mixed in. Next was a couple more coats of intercoat with a coupe tables****s of silver metal flake mixed into it. Then a couple more coats of the ic with blood red candy concentrate mixed in. looked like kool aid! Finally topped off with about 3 coats of 2K clear... I cleaned the hell out of the roof but at some point in the process I must have touched it with a palm (even though I had gloves on) I was into literally the second p*** of the spray gun when a big ol palm print showed up. This was the first time I screamed like a little girl in quite awhile. Luckily the intercoat clear doesn't use a hardener so I grabbed the reducer and a clean cloth and wiped the paint off and scrubbed the hand print as best as I could. The rest of the silver went on without and major issues. The flake was another story. I had a 2.2 nozzle in a different gun and went to work. Not having really any skill I just let it rip. Well, I put about 4 coats worth of flake on in about 1 coat. Turns out 2.2 held wide open can empty the can in about 6 seconds... For about 5 minutes it looked great. At that point I heard that guy from Raiders of the Lost Arc say "Indy, why does the floor move?" It was like watching a very slow moving river of flake work it's way wherever gravity wanted it to go. Insert 2nd little girl scream. I wish I would have gotten a picture of it but at that point I was babbling and running around the car like my *** was on fire. I calmed down, read a couple things on the internet and let it set up for a little bit. Now, I actually had enough clear on there the the runs mostly worked they way into the drip rails (which will never rust again) or off the back of the roof. The ones that were left I patted down with rag and more reducer. I do know that the flake is more forgiving so I just kept patting the melted candle type runs until the basically blended in with the surrounding area. I mixed up another half load of flake and then LIGHTLY dusted the areas, blending them. The candy came next. The powder was dissolved into reducer and had been sitting for at least a half hour (manuf. recomend). I knew this was going to be tough but I gave it my best shot. I didn't filter the mix though so I do have some dark spots but they are size of the flake so it kinda looks like I did it on purpose! After picking up a pizza I sprayed the last few coats of 2K clear over the top. Wed sand and buff probably tomorrow. I'm beating myself up when I probably shouldn't. For a first time muli stage custom job, it really isn't THAT bad. it's good from 10" away lol. Pics below. Hopefully I can get some pics in the sunlight today...

 

Nice commentary, nerve wracking for sure. Not judging your work but I heard this the other night and liked it."Good from far but far from good"

 

Yea it's somewhere between that and "huh, I wonder if it's supposed to look like that." They say you are your own worst critic so I can pick it apart pretty easy. It's not like the problems jump out at you but if you sit there and look at the roof it starts to resemble an M.C. Escher drawing... the stairs to nowhere! A couple more pics:

 

So how's it look outside in the sun?

 

It's hard to tell from the pics, but I suspect it's a lot better than what you were narrating, lol.
Pretty color. I like it.
I'm not a big metalflake fan, but I've got to do some repair work on my daily driver which is gonna get me my first attempt at matching oem pearls. I probably have some good cussing sections coming up!

 

Haha love the story! Car looks awsome in the sun.

 

Well, for the most part the engine and transmission are in the car. I'm slightly miffed about the fitment using Butch's kit, I don't know if a Merc has the transmission crossmember in a different place or what but no matter how much or how many ways I tried, a SBF using a toploader 4spd will not "bolt in" to the Merc. If I put the transmission on the mounting pad then the front mounts were not over the front crossmember and the rear of the pan (double sump 5.0) would sit on the drag link. Front mounts in correct location per the instructions and the trans mount is forward of the x-member by a couple inches. Well, I decided to mount it like it is supposed to be on the front mounts and will be fabbing up an adapter for the rear trans mount. While I knew it probably wouldn't help, it is confirmed that moonshine did nothing to correct the situation. So, the big plus is that the bad*** race headers I got for it actually fit! I was sweating that one like Tyson trying to read. After swearing at the mounts for awhile I grabbed a header and put it up to the motor. It was then I heard the angles sing. Completely different sound than just a little bit earlier, kinda like a goat calling out for it's mom. So, tonight I went out to the garage and made a template for the adapeter, measured for a driveshaft and called it a night... Thanks for following along... pics below!
Here's my "Hot Rod Mag Cover Photo" it's the 60's again!

So, front mounts where they should be, trans mount looks like this:

Trans mount where it should be, front mounts look like this:

Settled on putting front mounts where they are supposed to be, easier to futz with the trans mount. Here's the driver's side header. It didn't come close to hitting anything...

Another money shot...

Here's what I have to deal with on the trans mount... final decision is to fab an adapter...

Here's the engine in the car... lots more to do but it was a big step...

 

Butch's shows a 15" and a 17" kit which was yours ? And would it have made a difference ?

 

Well Jeff, you nailed it. Basically screwed up and just clicked wrong when ordering. I measured and knew I need the 17" kit and damn if I didn't order the 15. Sheeeeeeeet! Oh well, ordering second one now. Anyone need a 15" kit? lol! I realized while sitting and staring at their website that the 17" kit looks completely different. The mounts for the engine look to hang on the frame rails instead of the cross member. Good news is even MORE header clearance

 

Seems a lot of Fords used the 15" from guys I helped in the past,but I wonder if that were more common for 6 cyl cars than V8 cars Since Mercs didn't have 6 bangers maybe V8's were more likely 17" Butch's does not address that. Also the 17" kit calls for a front sump oil pan. There is a '53 Ford with Butch's kit in Post #101 car had a Six before the swap http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/faq-sticky.897329/page-4

 

The issue with the transmission mount may be this rectangular plate shown in this and also their '57-58 kit : http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/49-51-mercury-weld-in-sb-ford-engine-transmission-mount-kit-2503cp/ Might call them and ask if they will sell you it separately or you can fab it up as some have done in the past.

 

Well **** on a stick lol. I was following that post and wondering how I screwed up. So, now it's alike a sh!t snowball... Gotta yank the oil pan and get a new one and a pickup. So... the list of "For sale" parts grows... 15" swap kit, double sump pan with pickup... Soon it will be my sanity. Turns out I have another 298 in the garage that I THINK has a front sump on it. Swap time... Arrrggghhhh....

 

Honestly the more I looked at it, the engine is too far forward. I ordered the new kit (the right one from Butch's). The front sump pan solved the equation for me, the double sump was sitting right on the drag link but a front sump will drop into the front x-member cavity and clear the drag link....

 

Side note: wait till you see the header clearance after the engine is set back right. It's even better than it is now...